TTT

actually this "very fast...." shop came up in a yellow pages search. I contacted them and got a rough number over the phone which was decent enough. Thanks for sharing your experience with them. TT

Paul – you don’t want to tear it to shreads but I have time today… So in the first part of his description of a bov he says Basically describing what happens without a bov and why the bov was created/used… to prevent this gobble gobble as he calls it. But then he goes on to a conversation that they have with customers saying.. So first he says not having a bov/dump valve/recirculation valve will create the sound “that the public has grown to love”, then tells the customer that ""No pal, that is the dump valve..." Go captain Contradiction go!!!... Next bit of BS. Again he calls the bov/bypass valve/recirculation valve, a gobble gobble valve when in an earlier statement he explained the sound is caused from NOT having a bov. CONFUSED WOULD WE??? Lets get something clear here.. The 2 examples he has made in his little blurb are refering to a track car, that is raced, that is setup and tuned for circuit racing. The other is of a world rally car, which is raced, set up for rally racing. His first example I’ve got no problem with it. If you have a dedicated race car that you ONLY drive at a track, constantly caning it trying get the quickest lap times, then go right ahead and use no bov. But if you then have to drive the thing home, to the shops, on public roads etc, you are going to put up with all the associated problems that come with having an AFM car that is getting double the air intake reading from the AFM like he states in this quote. Forget emissions for a second, this rich mixture has plenty of issues on a street car. 1.) backfire sounds 2.) stalling 3.) black shit all over your rear bar around the exhaust. 4.) Jerky feeling when you are cruising with very little on off throttle. His second example. A world rally car is not what us skyline owners have. We do not have a budget that allows us to replace a $40K turbo after each race (yes rally cars have turbo’s that cost around $40K, purpose built to work with the restrictor they have to run, which they bin after each race wether it is still working perfectly or not) He also seems to have forgotten a little thing that rally cars have … ANTILAG. When they come off throttle, you also hear a whole heap of backfire cause even with throttle closed, the turbo is kept spinning with antilag. Why compare peoples street cars with those 2 examples? It’s stupid. Will not having a bov break your turbo? Can’t be proven. The fact is, if you have an afm equipt car, having a plumback bov will make the car run better. He says it himself Having a plumback bov will prevent the above situation. I also do not agree with his theory on throttle response. 1.) he says So by his own words, this backed up air goes BACK THROUGH THE TURBO cause it goes back out the AFM which is further down the track of the intake system. How he thinks that this does NOT slow the turbo’s RPM MORE than a plumback bov dumping the air back in front of the turbo inlet is just amazing to me. And absolutely stupid. OK.. here I go. The theories of TT… I agree with The problem with his theory is that wether you have a bov or not, plumback or atmo… when you shut the throttle it’s all the same. No exhaust flow as throttle is shut. So this does not change wether there is any sort of bov or not. My theory on no bov. Throttle shut, air stuck in intercooler pipes, causes pressure build up and escapes through the path of least resistance… metal pipes and shut throttle butterfly is solid. Turbo INLET blades are spinning but have gaps where air can escape so it goes back through there. My theory on plumb back bov or recirculation valve. Throttle shut, air stuck in intercooler pipes, causes pressure build up and escapes through the path of least resistance. In this moment where throttle is shut, manifold sees vacuum, this sucks the recirc valve open, air escapes through here and leads down the pipe to in front of the turbo. Both of these scenarios end up with the pipes losing pressure, be it out the bov or out the turbo with no bov. However, no one here (or the guy in the article) can surely argue that the no bov option of air needing to go back through the turbo will slow down the turbo more than dumping air in FRONT of a turbo which was sucking air in. It’s seriously common sense. So having said AAAAALLLLLL this… throttle response and with it boost response will be higher on a car with recirculating bov than a car with no bov. I say, a turbo spinning at 100,000rpm will slow down MORE with no bov than with a recirc bov between gearchanges. My reason as stated above is because of the air being forced back through a turbo that is spinning in a direction which is trying to suck air in, compares to a turbo that has nothing trying to go the wrong way, infact has the air that was in the pipes dumped back in front of it. No force on the back of the COMPRESSOR of a turbo equals less turbo rpm loss between gears. Has nothing to do with exhaust side of things. And I’m spent.

I'm looking for some contacts. If you are in Brisbanes Northern suburbs and have dealt with a panel beater who has done "GOOD" by you, and you'd recommend please post details here. I am looking for someone who will be able to replace a rear bar, fix up the very end of the rear quarter (where the bar attaches) and a few little clear coat bubbling issues on both doors. and a few little shopping centre scratches. Don't require Show quality work. just regular panel beater, who can blend in the paint and will not rape me on price, and who will keep there word on when the job will be complete. anyway, post away.

add S15 turbo's to that list of NON ball bearing turbo's. Even the jap ones have BUSH bearings.. the ball bearing ones had different serial numbers, and it wasn't just on the Jap spec or aus spec.. they were kinda all over the place.. I am interested in this possible comparison that MIGHT happen here. well not really. $1750 for gcg or $890 for slide's one. that's double the price and to "ME" not worth it. but I'm tight..

pipe down little boy

fuel filter is between drivers side suspension tower and intake manifold. it looks like a cylinder. about 2 inches in diameter

don't expect to find a skyline that HASN'T been driven hard. come on. a turbo rwd skyline and you expect that it hasn't been given a good flogin?

pfft.. I wouldn't touch mr Bling Bling with a 10 ft clown pole.

I am interested but not at the price. I’m not saying you need to agree with me. Don’t want to waste your time so I’ll just say that I am looking at spending $12K and if that suits you, then let me know. If not, I will just buy one of the ones on carsales who have had their cars listed for sale for many months. Not fussy of 93 series 1 or up to 97 series 2. Also don’t care what colour I get all that much. Just need an R33 and will spend up to $12K in the next week to get one. Not a time waster or tyre kicker.. just sold my car and looking to buy another. Cheers

Hi and welcome. Good choice on track car. R32 gtr was designed and built for circuit racing. I’ll try to answer some of your questions/concerns and will keep in mind that you are using this for race purpose only. I assume you will get an 89 model as they are the only ones to be imported still. So. You will end up getting a gtr with a 17 year old tired rb26dett. This is not going to be a cheap exercise so here is what I would do if I had money to throw around. ENGINE Oil control RB’s in general (all of them, be it 20, 25, 26, 30) have an oil control problem in race conditions. More so when the engine is in a 4wd car due to the G’s the things can pull. Here is a link on what one of our forums GURU’s have put together regarding this issue. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110680 Turbo’s GTR’s and almost all skylines have ceramic exhaust wheels on the turbo. These tend to de-laminate and break under excessive shaft speed and heat (which is the result of increased boost) The problem on GTR’s with the twin turbs is that when one or both turbo’s lose and exhaust wheel, it seems to send ceramic particles/dust back through the exhaust manifold and back in to the engine giving it a “unwanted” port and polish. There have been a few people on here with busted engines due to this exact problem. SOOOOO.. change the turbos… His link will show you what results people have achieved with their RB26’s using what mods etc… http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93880 Coil packs Lets admit it, 17 years of heating up and cooling down is eventually going to degrade the performance of something that sits in between the rocker covers of an engine. Seems to be the most common reason for misfires under acceleration right in the meaty part of the engines torque curve. SPLIT FIRE direct replacements seem to be the way to go. ECU Without a doubt, the easiest and most common path here is the Apexi Power FC. You can search more on that if you like. Suspension and Brakes We have a Section dedicated for this.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...php?act=SF&f=59 Has plenty of threads and info from some of the luckier people on here who get to use their GTR’s the way the Nissan gods intended. Gearbox and diffs STRONG. I doubt very much that at club level and using it for circuit racing and hill climbs etc that you would break a GTR diff or gearbox. Be smart with your clutch choice (read: OS triple plate y0 is not always the best just cause it costs the same as a new hyundia Getz) and you will have no problems. Change all the fluids for gearbox, diff, clutch, power steering and obviously engine and use good quality stuff that has been tested. Searching for these items on here will yield many good results from those who once again, Race their cars properly. My last recommendation is this. Since it’s a race only car… STRIP THE THING… Take out every thing that is not needed. All carpets, all sound deadner, all non requied seats, the bits in the boot etc. At close to 1500kg standard trim, it’s the lightest gtr but still no lightweight in terms of race car. One last thing. Sydneykid on these forums says he is human…. I don’t believe him. I think he is some sort of skyline / RB robot. Who is a Database attached to a keyboard that answers all questions stupid or in depth, with exact and friendly replies. He gets rather busy though with almost everyone asking him questions directly. I’m sure if you post specific questions in the appropriate sections, he will stumble upon them eventually and add his reply. I also suggest searching for anything you want to know in particular first as some people on here have “So a search” as a short cut key on their keyboards. When searching, make sure you change the parameters to search back to ALL threads instead of the default 30 days. I’ll stop now. TT

See if I can be of “SOME” help here.. First point… All R33 skylines are M-spec, type M or what ever you want to call it. It was only an “option” in the R32 range where Mspec or type m or what ever it is called, would include the 4 pot brakes and few other little things to make the car nicer. Mspec does “NOT” mean more power or anything. And all R33 GTS25T cars are the same power. 93 and 94 model R33 GTS25T is commonly known as series 1. They have the velour gray interior. 95 model is known as the series 1.5 because it has the interior of the series 2 and the rear wing of a series 2 but the front bar and head lights of a series 1. 96 and 97 models are known as the series 2. They have a different front bar to the series 1, slight changes to headlights, interior and dash is a little different and in general series 2 are nicer to look at. POWER IS THE SAME. Now. You have 2 cars here. What you want out of a car is Black paint GTR body kit Out of the 2 cars you have listed, one is black and perfect condition as you have stated. And it has less km’s than the 95 model which happens to be white. So if you are going to change the body kit to GTR anyway, the answer is obvious to me. You buy the 93 model gts25t with 74K km’s and save money to buy the GTR kit.

you know what we are missing here? hairy, f*king wookie RAAAGGGGEEE!!! someone get the wookie on here..

mate they wouldn't be so shiny if you didn't insist on constantly licking them. youy're like a cat mate. tongue like sand paper.. of course it's smooth and shiny now... damn ball licker...!!! LOL

for those that may not have seen it, this site has vids and pics of cars on the ring… http://www.8200rpm.com I came across it on the liberty RS forums when one of the guys there posted his lap on the ring in his liberty wagon. The RS I refer to is this one.. He has been on this track many times. That particular video is this one.. http://static.8200rpm.com/Video_Section/51...eria_Legacy.wmv right click save as (hope it still works) If you download it (100mb) you will hear a whole heap of squeeling (potenza s03 street tyres.) He has mentioned that on the straight he get to just over 240km/h as it is uphill. Car mods are cage, 2.5 inch turbo back with no cat, above mentioned tyres, lowered springs and a rechipped ecu.. oh and decent pads and fluid. Everything else is stock. Hope you got lots a downloading space..

SOLD to a top bloke.

SOLD

did anyone else go through the link that minh put up of all the chops and see Buster in his bra? hahahahaha *don't hurt me Mr Goldberg sir*

more old timers... who the fluck let timm in here ?? skinny mofo..

ohhhhhhh shit nutts.

R34 sidemount is "NOT" a direct replacement for an R32.. it "IS" a direct replacement to an R33 or a stagea. to fit an R32, you need to do one of 2 things to fit it. 1.) make changes to the piping down near the cooler to fit the new inlet angle. or 2.) take your R32 stock intercooler and your newly purchased R34 side mount intercooler to a local aluminium welder (just find one in the yellow pages) and tell them to weld the end tank on the r34 cooler so that the pipes face the exact same direction as teh r32 cooler. now it will bolt straight on. note.. this above information is pretty much what Sydneykid wrote in another thread of what he did to mount an R34 intercooler to an R32. the welding job cost him about $50 if I recal.

You are not explaining your issue properly. Does this happen always, when it’s cold, when it’s hot? How much is your car running? A dying turbo makes weird noises and may possibly blow white/blue smoke out the exhaust. R33 gtst series 1 or 2 turbo’s are a direct bolt on to an RB20 from a 1990 onwards car. I think the 89 model cars needed some mods to the oil or water lines. Also, you will need to buy the “Elbow pipe” with the turbo. This is the very first part of the intercooler pipe which bolts on with 3 bolts on to the turbo. Hi-flowing your turbo will cost over $1500 and about $2K for a ball bearing hiflow from GCG. This thread here… http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115981 is about a hiflow that a guy on here sells for $890. The guy who makes them goes on to say that he has them for rb20’s aswell which are a little smaller than the rb25 hiflow to help with lag on the rb20. Maybe look in to that if you want. A stock r33 gtst turbo should cost between $300 - $450 these days. R34 gtt turbo’s from the NEO rb25det can also be used but will be a little more laggy due to having a larger exhaust wheel than the other rb25 turbos. Things to check for your car. 1.) intercooler pipes all on tight? 2.) oil changed recently? With good oil? Try Castrol Edge 10W60.. and fill it to just a tinny bit over full on the dip stick. 3.) spark plugs changed recently? What heat range? What gap? (try NGK copper plugs, part number BCPR6ES-8 (ore -11 if no -8’s) and gap them down to 0.8mm) 4.) tape up your coil packs (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119403) that thread is for R33 but it’s pretty much the same. I went further and I taped all the way down to the end of the rubber bit. I went down and back up giving it a total of 3 layers. 5.) Clean your AFM (Air flow meter) which is that thing bolted to your air filter pod (or air box).. take it off the car and spray the inside of it with degreaser or electrical contact cleaner and rinse out, then dry and put back on car.) All this is cheap to do and will fix most things common to these cars and if not, at least give you a good starting point and hasn’t cost you much if anything..

there are a few things you can do which will cost you nothing or very little that may sort out the problem. 1.) replace those 45000km old spark plugs… Get yourself a set of copper plugs in the correct heat range (do a search for skyline spark plugs to get part number), make sure they are 0.8mm gapped and recheck them with a feeler tool. 2.) Take out those coil packs. Get some good electrical tape (not the 6 rolls for $2 kind) and tape up the rubber parts all the way from the spark plug end up to the coil pack end. I went up and down mine with 3 layers of tape. 3.) Take out your AFM, get some degreaser (or electrical contact cleaner, they both work) and spray the inside of your AFM… rinse it out, (do it again if not completely clean), then dry it out before fitting it back to the car. There you go. 3 things that will cost you some of your time and maybe $30 for 6 plugs and some electrical tape and can of degreaser. If these things fix it, all good. If they don’t, all you’ve done is wasted a few of your hours.. but now you have good coil packs, new spark plugs and a clean AFM, and can be certain it’s not those causing the problem.

fuel filter... between the strut tower and manifold.. same for rb25...

can't you just buy a factory air box?

new question... What do I need to do to sell a NSW registered car to a buyer in QLD? the buyer will be the one to get it RWC'd and change of rego to qld plates.. so as a NSW car with NSW rego plates and rego papers, what do I need to do to sell her?