TTT

what intercooler kit? some of the earlier hybrid type intercooler kits had some crap welding on the pipes or something and would scream on boost.

yes. type 1 they are fine. well worth the money.

yeh.. brisbane to adelaide is a little bit of a drive.. I might wait for pics.. cheers

FOOLBOOST - did I read correctly? you managed to put a R32 rb25 de head on a rb30 bottom end, and fit it in an R32 GTS4 without modifying the engine mounts.. AND using stock plenum and pipes? This puts a whole new spin on things if true.. Please pm me some details of how you got the bonnet to shut. and anything else that you've done that might come in handy to someone else is your situation.... me!!!

look in the parts for sale section. there is an AVO kit which uses the stock pipes in the engine bay. the guy was asking $600 I think. they are worth over $1100 new. definitely worth it.. also, if you are not after more than say 200rwkw, you could buy a R34 GTT side mount intercooler. it needs mods to the end tank which could be done for about $50 from any aluminium welding place.

I'll offer $50. Also in Brisbane North side and can pick up on weekend..

http://carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...rch_distance=25 looks ok actually..

*snif*.. brings a tear to my eyes to see all the olden days.. back when exhaust f*king was the thing to do.. back when each morning on SAU, threre would be at least 3 new threads of photchops. back when Minh had too big an upper body compared to his twiggy legs and had no tricep definition.. back when minh had scaring from paint on tatoos.. hahahahahaha back when George though he'd be cool to sit on a 3 legged chair and claim that he wouldn't fall off.... while a video camera was running, while I kicked it out from under his skinny arse.. hahahahaha back when there was at least 1 BBQ on every weekend followed up by pearl tea.. meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeemories....... Like a Minh without his thaiboys... like a Cereal with a bad haaaaaiiirr day.... like a butter chickennnnnnn.... so many people have gone.. I got maried and I've just moved to Brisbane... Last peeps I saw was Cereal, Timm, and Mario the wookie at my bucks. Cereal, cheers for the drinks and the titties.. Drove all the way back from Canberra to party with us... *sniff* good times, good times.. and looking at the people in this thread right now,... all old skool... GTST, MYS013, d0p3y, two40, GTR-80Y

from the link.. it's pretty obvious that the dyno reads high. a stock rb20 has 10 psi from factory. and makes about 110 rwkw. so how does this gus rb20det on 11 psi make 164 rwkw? with the only power oriented mods on his car being FMIC, HKS pod, walbro pump, turbo back exhaust. as stated though, your ecu MUST be chipped with the A:F ratio's the way they are.. take it out, take a photo and post here.. people can point out if it is chipped or not for you.

I say uy a $350 ATTESSA controller from Duncan in the group buy section. that or anti sway bars. perfect for a GTR

if it idles like that how does it drive when you accelerate? is it drivable? does it rev out and boost properly? I jsut recently had a problem where the car would cut out. nd occasionally rev between 500 - 2000 rpm. my issue turned out to be a dirty air flow meter. I took the AFM off the car (1 plug 1 clamp and 4 bolts) and sprayed the inside of the AFm with degreaser then washed it out. shook it dry then dried it out properly with a hair dryer. now it workds great, idles better than it ever did and revs out clean. it is also smoother to drive. might be worth a check if you havn't already done so

Just bought my missus a corolla and want to get it tinted for her. I am after 35% legal limit. good value. lifetime warranty. being new to the area I thought I'd ask here to see who the locals have used and their thoughts and experience. if you do reply here, please include. company name contact details (phone, address or website or whatever you may have) price you paid your opinion on the job done. thanks. Tolga

just turn the boost down to less than 10 psi. problem fixed and you don't have to struggle to take that LED shoe of yours off.

Tandy electronics. $13 - Soldering Iron $8 - Solder $6 - Black silicon this morning I pulled out my air box, took the air flow meter of it, cut out the top and all the points were already intact.. (YES only 4 are attached,) (this is all in the link that PHATR32 posted above) I soldered over them anyway.. sealed it all back up. then I had a look in the afm to see what condition it was in. I thought it was a little strange that the afm wire probe in it was black instead of that red/orange colour my old skyline one was.. upon closer inspection in direct sun light, it was red/orange just with shit loads of oil and dirt on it. so I walked to the nearest coles and got some engine degreaser. degreased the inside of the AFM good. washed it out. degreased again and washed it out again till it was all noice and clean. shook it dry. pinched wifes hair dryer and dried it out good. attached it back to the air box, plugged it all back in and I'm all god now. so as per my original post about feeling like a noob, it is now quite obvious I am.. somtimes..

So my car got me to Brisbane with out a hiccup (can't say the same for my missus..) now in the last 2 days, it occasionally has a weird problem. it cuts out like it is missing, but stays "OUT" so to speak for much longer. it happens more so when you have your foot into it. I could be taking off in first gear and heavy acceleration will make it cut out. it is a pretty HARSH cut too. it's like got NO forward motion at all from it until I take my foot off the pedal. I know what it's like to have a miss from spark plug or coils as I had it before and this is not the same. with a spark miss, it cuts and comes back quickly.. at the moment, when it cuts, it's like it is dead for 2 seconds before coming back. I thought maybe fuel filter is blocked but it seems to rev out fine in neutral. but when there is load it cuts.. and to top all this off, it only happens occasionally. mainly once fully warm and had a few stop goes like at traffic lights. I won't get to check it properly till saturday so any response would be helpful. mods: exhaust filter turbo tech boost controller @ 11psi fmic everything else is stock including fuel pump. I have checked: plugs coils intercooler pipes vacuum lines it idles fine. the first day it did this, it also had weird idle. where after it cut out and came back during driving, at the next lights, the revs dropped to 800, then slowly rised to 1500, dropped to 900, then back up to 2000. sort of like rev, drop, rev, drop, rev, drop hasn't done that since. Kinda leads to me an electrical problem but not sure with what. thanks in advance. TT

Finally got to brissie. man that's a long drive. not doing that again. anyway, the car got here fine. 2 days later (yesterday), the air con has stopped working.. needs gas, and I need to get a new fuel filter as anything over 3000rpm with anything except feather touch on throttle gets a cut till you come off it completely. so now gotta find a mechanic in the Northlakes, Kallangur area to re-gas the air con and swap a fuel filter or at least supply it for me so that I can change it.... if I can fit my hands in there that is.. looks to be a pain in the ass. I will be more actively back on here once I get broadband set up at home which should be in a week or so. or maybe from work once they set me up tomorrow.. we'll see. on another note.. I love it here.. Sydney can bugger the hell right off!!! LOL..

still waiting for answer

almost fell for it.. then I read and knew it was bullshit.. as if that EVER happens without a whole bunch of broken glass gearbox bits around. LOL

Dr Drift does not do R33 chips... YET.. I'm sure he'll work something out but not yet. It's up to you but just remember, that the r33 chips that TOSHI does are right once type chips. basically, he will do a dyno run, look at the a:f mixtures and make changes to a chip, burn it, put it on your ecu, do another run. if it is off, he will do another.. it takes long and could cost close to a PFC. Honestly, I am probably the thightest person you'll find on these forums and if I had an R33 and was at the stage of ECU, I would not even think twice about and would buy a PFC straight up. I mean, when you get it, you can plug it in to where your factory one sits and DRIVE to the dyno place that you choose to tune it. and EVERYONE knows how to tune a PFC. if you want to do it bodgey, get an SAFC and ITC (controlls timing) and get someone to plug them in and tune. your choice..

SSShhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh shutuuuupppp!!!!

but it's hektik to chirp on gear change. I can chirp all 5 wheels (including the spare in the boot) 6th gear on my rb20 powered gts4, down hill, on drag slicks.. i have exhaust, filter, 11 psi boost and a boost gauge that has 7 colours. respetk oh I forgot to mention I have a fmic...

Paul - you are right and wrong. not everyone can afford big name turbo's from HKS or trust. not everyone wants power and numbers like BUSTER. not everyone has the knowledge and knowhow that SK has or the tools to do all the work. not every car has ball bearing turbo's. just to name a few cars that do without ball bearing turbo's and survive.. VL turbo. 80's car and still running.. some even on stock turbo.. and with no bov.. Liberty RS turbo's... I've seen cars with over 300,000kms on it on stock engine and stock turbo. The cheapest I've seen ball bearing hi flow from GCG is $1700 for the 450 hp version. you can buy 2 of these for that price. he offers a 1 year warranty. he is straight forward with what he is selling and what to expect. as much as I'd like to play with the big boys and spend big money on my car habbit, I (and I'm sure a shit load of people on these forums) can't afford to do that. just something to think about before jumping on the BB wagon. I think that is completely wrong. you can have cheap upgrades. an rb20 with one of these turbo's, $28 boost controller, rechip, walbro pump, $30 air filter and $600 xforce exhaust system can be just as good and probably within 10-15rwkw of the same car using top of the line ecu, pump, exhaust, turbo, blah blah blah.. You might be in a different financial boat then me, but I just think that you need to consider the rest of the peeps

read through the $22 boost controller thread. people have put pictures of installs on gtr's.

next to No-one does it. TOSHI from these forums is the only one that I know that has done it. but it is at least 2 times the cost of an R32 one. I'd just buy a PFC for $950 for an R33 than a remap if you got a remap and then did some more mods, to re-tune it, you would have to buy a new chip as they are not re-writable so to speak. pfc can be tuned over and over.

ok.. please tell me what mods you have.. I m dieing to know.. cat back and hks filter?