TTT

see red circle in pic attached for location of vacuum hose or as you have called it "manifold vacuum hose on car"

dude.. see on your cars speedo cluster, top left hand corner is the factory boost gauge. well in your engine bay, up against the firewall in front of the drivers seat, is a little box and a vaccum hose going to it. Put your T piece in that. that is the vacuum line that the factory gauge uses.

dr drift over safc. I will buy one when I am up there and he said he'd dyno and fine tune if required when he is next up there. he has a few generic chips. like for the mods you have.

man the A:F before the pump were getting kinda too lean.. now if you got ECU chipped, the part from 75km onwards would gain power if it came back up to 12:1 as well.

you're a little all over the place there mate.. if you are getting a work car and won't need your own, then why an R34? s13 for drifting I can understand... just do that if you must.

someone answer the damn question. what is this thread about? fuel pump made 190rwkw? CRD gave great price and service? a stock R33 ecu didn't have a spastic over 10psi? what's the Gee oh?

had the "cheap" kit on my car for over a year, fan blades trimmed. water pump is fine. choice is yours. what is your power goal?

another vote for ej20 conversion. but not the newer ones.. go for one from a 92 RS liberty or something.. they sound lumpier. sick

like I said, as a "street" car, with an RB30det, I personally would prefer a VL commondore style tall gears...3.7:1 I just think it would make the best use of the torque the engine puts out. circuit, drag, drift I would say you would not want that sort of ratio.

mate all is covered in the RB30 thread. posting here would be re-posting things that have been done in there over and over..

no there are some already 0.8mm... I don't remember the number though.. but the spark plug gap feelers (I think that is what they are called) are only about $30 from supacheap I think. they look like a swiss army knife but each blade is a feeler of Xmm thick.. you just tap the plug gap closed and keep feeling it till the designated feeler touches both sides of the gap and that's it.

air is now going through 2 intercoolers.. it would be too much of a restriction.. basically like air being pushed through 1200 x 150mm core.

I just wanna get taken for a spin in SK's car when done. stripped R32 gtst powered by some 650 odd hp RB31det goodness. and a car owned by someone who is what you'd call a suspension specialist of some sort.. I'll bring spare pants.. I promise..

well maybe "THEY" read it wrong and passed on wrong info to you. it's actually PHYSICALLY not possible for the rb25 turbo to flow enough air to produce that much power.

I've got news for ya dude... in a stock ECU'd skyline, copper, iridium, platinum, gold or whatever is going to foul up just as quick as one another. Copper is also a better conducter of electricity than the other options. if you had an aftermarket computer and your a:f ratio's were tuned to be spot on, then you wouldn't have fouled plugs as often, but at 10psi on a stock ecu on an RB motor, you will find that once boost is on and ecu goes out of closed loop cycle, you're a:f ratios are going to go waaaaaay south. and they are going to get fouled up. What I did was use copper plugs at 0.8mm. when I was putting the engine bay back together, I left the coil cover off. now All I have to do to change plugs is remove the cros over pipe and bov attachment and I'm ready to remove the coils and plugs. This is on an RB20 but same deal for you. plus you have that other engine cover on the NEO which I'd leave off too. better cooling for the coil packs anyway.

I recommend 0.8mm gap at the same range to fix this problem.

maybe you hear/read it wrong.. maybe it was 280 HP not kw HP is doable.

wow.. what a mess. nice project though.. your misfortunes (as bad as they are) is very good reading for dreamers like myself... I hope your next post regarding this car/engine and so on is just a new thread saying, project complete, car tuned, power = xyz, here is dyno graph with power, torque, a:f ratio and boost. good luck and good work

when you say dead stock, I am assuming as it was when it left the factory but with many many km's on it. so. turbo back exhaust - $600 (xforce) air filter - $50 (Piper Cross Panel filter) FMIC - $500 (Just jap generic hybrid style) boost controller - $300 (some Electronic one second hand) fuel pump - $300 (bosch something or other) GTR injectors and resistor pack - $300 Z32 AFM - $250 (used or about 350 new I think) PFC and controller - $1400 tune - $500 so far it's cost you $4200 and you still have stock turbo so you're limited to about 170rwkw on 14 or so psi boost. that is going about it cheap too.. you could ad an RB25 turbo with the $800 you got left... would be another $400 so you got $400 left and have about 190rwkw. so that is what I meant by $5K on an RB20 won't get you far. but you have rb30 block, head, gearbox already. if you did it cheap and just got a set of NA pistons, neaw rings, bearings, gasket kit, weld that vvt crap up, you still have a decent wack of cash left. a GT30 internally gated 500hp turbo will see that engine produce your 280rwkw you want with lowish boost (14-17psi or so). youd still need ECU - PFC = $1400 and tune - $500 and injectors, pump afm exhaust blah blah blah.. so all the things I listed above for the rb20, you'll need for the 30 as well. but it will produce bigger numbers for sure. and forget the KW output, the torque figures are even more impressive. have a read through the rb30 dyno thread sticky at the top of this section.

woops.. wrong ceffie.. sorry mixed you up with ceffie.. my bad

well it would have been easier to get a NON turbo rb30 bottom end and a NON turbo RB25 head from an R32. then you could save money on chaning pistons, welding and disabling VVT and having the correct sensors to work with the RB20 loom. with what you have now, you will need the NA pistons (cheap option) or forged bits (expensive option), do all that welding and blocking crap for the VVT on the DET head, and use your 20det bits like AFM and sensors etc. and since you said you have $5K to spend, It would have saved you some dollars and time is all. I think $5K "COULD" get you 280rwkw rb30det, but I highly doubt 280rwkw could be had from an RB20 for $5K What mods does your RB20 currently have?

thought you were in canberra these days

there was a thread recently about modifying an R34 gtt side mount cooler to fit R32 gtst stock cooler spot. that might be an option for you. Sydney kid posted a few points in there.. says it flows and cools well for 220 rwkw on his RB20det powered R32... and that is a track car. which is used only for thrashing constantly at the track. might be comething to consider since they cost about $150 and an aluminium welding place could modify the end tank to be same as R32 stock cooler (SK said he paid $50) and you could bolt it straight in it's place. so..

seems you have the wrong bottom end AND head.

to look at the first part of your question about which engien suits the stock diff (which is what 4.3:1 ??), you'd need to say what is the main use for your car? I always thought that such a short diff ratio the R32 has, the RB30 would be pretty useless since all that torque would result in constant wheel spin, but SK says that it can all be tuned via the boost controller and suspension and it would be driveable. personally I'd prefer a VL style (3.7:1) tall ratio with a 3L engine. what do the gtr's have? 4.1:1? second part of your questions has too many variables and opinions so I'll stay right out of that one..