TTT

I emailed dr-drift regarding a few things and one was a remap. he asked what mods i'd have when the ecu is to be done. i told him and he said he has a few generic chips for certain mods. my one was for rb20 engine, rb25 turbo, 14psi, FMIC, exhaust, filter, fuel pump. stock injectors, fuel pressure and afm. he said can be done for about $400 (he will send me the ECU) and when he is up in Brisbane next, he will meet up and fine tune it for me if required. Now that is all I want out of this car in terms of power so that is a good deal. I will probably change the car before I go any further with mods.. if you plan on going all out later on, then might as well get PFC or other full management system.

I see you have a few R31's... hahahahaha

Car is stil for sale

$30 for passenger vent.. let me know if the other person has bid higher

spotted a silver 4 door R32 (enyimports.com.au slicker on back window) near Warringah Mall on Sunday, so I drove next to him to give a wave, both lanes turn right and so we did, then the f**ker merged in to my lane as he went around the corner. last time I go out of my way to say hello to someone with a similar car. dopey prick

bahahaha ethug.. ok mate. what can I say, I'm a ricer and am trying to make you one too. I don't have a short temper nor do I make a habit of flaming people for no reason. you asked for advice, people answered. I gave my bit too. then all you did was give stupid reasons why you thin things are rice or not required. People need to ask questions to learn. Of course. I did the same. but when I got an answer, I then didn't argue it.. I may have questioned the reason behind the persons answer but not say that they were wrong. someone mentioned above that you will be spending like $60 on fuel minimum per week. 50 odd litres of optimax at $1.40 per litre. you work it out. you don't want rice or expensive, so I suggested you buy VDO brand. it is the manufacturer that does the factory gauges for MANY MANY cars. it is simple and doesn't light up fancy or anything. accurate and plain. but you still argue that it's rice and not required. so why should I or others waste their time on someone with a f*kwit attitude like you? E thug.. if you want me to say it to your face I'll be more than happy to mate. You should think before you open your mouth occasionally. it's even ok to type your responce.. but maybe re-read it to make sure people aren't going to think that you are a complete tool.

hi flow rb25 turbo hks 2530 anyway, just found a dyno sheet from my old r32 had turbo back 3 inch Blitz panel filter turbo xs bleed valve rb25 turbo arc side mount intercooler it was manual too. 11psi gave me 153rwkw on some dyno on shoot out mode. stock computer had A:F at 12:1 room temps were 35 degrees

wow didn't this turn to a shit fight.. and a whole heap of crazy talk. you posted a few pages ago that you only wanted 250rwkw. easily within rb25 range. probably cheapest too.

how many times does the man have to say he is keeping the car? for f*ks sake.... he isn't asking if he should do the mods. he is saying what will the mods produce.

I like to judge a book by it's cover. I've decided that from the few posts made by 123456, I will no longer read as it is a shit book. if you don't get it mate, you are given good advice and come back with stupid, unthoughtful remarks. Won't bother answering any more of your posts. I'm sure you will soon ask about fluttering and wether an intercooler is really required or is it rice. good luck on your skyline

ROY - Have you considered an AUTO r32 radiator? I believe they are twice the thickness of the manual ones. when I had to change my one on my old R32 I'm pretty sure the one that was in there was the thickness of a finger and the auto one was double that.

best idea is to get one which has 2 massive trumpets. on one of the trumpets, attach a duck call whistle, and on the other attach a referees whistle.. rrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmmm....psshh quack prrrrrrrrrrr make sure your seat is well reclined and stare at people who look at where the sound is comming from..

just under the word "motor"

it fits. you should also clarify wether you mean dump pipe (straight off the back of turbo) or front pipe (the part that goes from dump pipe to the Cat), or the all in one combo. either way, I have previously purchased one of those r32/33 dump/front pipe all in one combo's and it fitted my R32 and at the same time an R33 had it fitted to his car on the hoist next to me. I'd say it fits fine rom experience.

1.) r32 gtst does not have a stock boost controller. the boost is regulated by the spring in the wastegate actuator. 2.) R32 gtst (rb20 powered cars) stock boost is 10psi. 3.) buy a BOOST GAUGE. I suggest VDO brand. it is simple, black face, white numbers red marker. cost about $40 and is very accurate.

good man droo. the plumback pipe basically snakes it's way back to the pipe that is between the air filter and turbo front.

is there a "passenger" side air vent?

closest I can find to helping you out mate..

you f*ker.. I was all excited to read about a good old fashion beating..

you mean WITHOUT right? I know what you mean. I had an ex rally ford laser TX3 which had no bov. hi flowed turbo and 15psi.. never broke a turbo. but my skyline has the factory bov and it runs smoother with it on.. anyway,

it's the bov. if you are happy with black soot on your rear bar and don't mind the puff of smoke and your car doesn't sall when comming to a stop and you don't mind the back fires and shit, then leave it. if you want all the above fixed, remove the bov and fit the factory one on. if you want me to tell you why let me know.

nice work warren. as SK has said many time before.. the rb25 turbo flows 15% more at the same boost as the rb20 turbo. yes you made a few other mods but 13psi on rb25 turbo making about 155rwkw. take away 15% (which is about 23) and you have 132rwkw which was your old set up. nice. I'll have a talk with you about these cams when I finally get up there and settled in.

well think about it quickly. stock turbo at 12psi was able to push enough air in to the engine to make 200rwkw. the turbo now has been hi flowed. basicaly as the name suggests it flows higher amounts of air. so if the boost controller has not been touched, 12 psi on the new turbo actually flows MORE air. and this has caused your cutout/missfire issue. it will have to be tuned to supply right amount of fuel to go with the new amount of air. I'd definitely chuck in the pump you have. now.. I don't have an RB25 so I don't know first hand, the limit of the RB25 afm. I'm sure others will. Actually, if you take a quick look at the RB25 turbo/dyno thread ( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=55845) you can see what power people have and what mods. if you can find what power people have before a Z32 AFM is required, you'll work out if you can use the new turbo to it's max potential with the RB25 AFM or not. other than this, I'm pretty sure that without a FPR, your injectors are going to be maxing out soon. oh.. get some fatter tyres and better that time man..

that hose is the vacuum line to the boost solenoid. you will need to have it connected to the intercooler pipe. I "think" it also works if you connect it to a vacuum line off the plenum.