TTT

factory R33 GTST solenoid is the one that is used in the JAY CAR KIT. I guess if you don't have an RB25, you can put up a Wanted to buy thread on these forums for some R33 owner who has stuck a bleed valve on their car and not using the factory one

was the PFC tuned with the stock turbo? at what boost? what power did it make? If I had to guess, I'd say maybe your AFM. more air is comming in and the AFM is out of resolution and the engine is misfiring/cutting out as it is not tuned for that level of AIR FLOW. but answer the questions above please.. cheers

what mods you got?

and Greddy type S (the pink one) and the HKS copy by MONZA or some crap

rb25 gearbox is 61kg and you panzy's can't pick it up?

morgz r33 - your car has a bov already. see how the pipe goes across your engine and to the trottle body where the accelerator cable is.. well just to the right of that, on the side of the pipe (towards the back of the engine bay) is the factory bov. it has a rubber hose that plumbs it back in to the inlet. if you want to hear the sound of it, get a pod filter instead of the air box and you will be able to hear it. if you must have a bov that goes pssshhh then buy one that has an adapter for a skyline then you can just unbolt the factory one, bolt in the new one, connect the little vaccum hose on top of it, block off the big rubber hose that plumbs back and you're done. someone above already told you what flutter is.. and that howstuffworks page is great reading for someone new to it all.

I'm sorry I read this 3 times but I don't understand the problem. when you say each gear was maxing out at 12psi, are you saying that you were going really fast? or was it cutting out? either way, if you now have a turbo that can ram more air in to your engine, OFCOURSE the ECu should be tuned to accomodate the right fuel and timing to go with it. you don't mention any injectors or Fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump in your list of mods so I would suggest at least get a fuel pump and the regulator to make use of the new turbo. I'm just not sure what it is you are trying to ask...

mrhele used to work at the same company as me. has some 19 inch wheels. I beleive HELE is supposed to mean burnouts or bonuts or something fully hektik

12 psi (which on an RB20 is 2 psi over stock.) eventually (in a few months) an rb25 turbo will be fitted, ECU done by DR_Drift and I will wind it up to 14psi'ish.

Mate it's up to you what you buy, but the GFB and turbofart ones are shit. and making it more complex with dual stage bullshit makes them even worse. If you are handy and like doing things yourself, I'd suggest making the AUTOSPEED boost controller (search for Sydneykid and Autospeed ). or Jay car has a Electronic kit you can put together yourself. once again search for Sydneykid and Jaycar (I think it's in the STAGEA section of these forums) otherwise the turbotech boost controller ($22 which is now $35 I think) that the 45 page thread is on about is seriously a decent boost controller and does not spike at the levels that you are planing on using it at. up to you.

it should handle a fair bit. RIPS in NZ has told me that he's had his and a customers GTS4 run 10's on stock gts4 gearbox (RB30det engine). he has since gone to GTR box but he did manage a few runs on the factory box. considering the torque the rb30det would need to put out to propell the car to a 10, I'd say you would be fine to side step a few 5000rpm or more launches.

yep. that is what sits between my wastegate and turbo housing. haven't had a problem yet. I bought the car with a miss. took plugs out and gapped them down from 1.1 to 0.8 and the miss only then happened at full load higher in the rev range. then took the coil packs out and taped them up like I described and also left the coil cover OFF the car for extra cooling. no problems since

since when does 260kw at the wheels get you an 11 second pass? is this 260 kw at all 4 wheels? gts4 weighs the same as an R32 gtr. I don't recal seeing any r32 gtr's with 260kw running 11's

there is no limit to a turbo so to speak. what nismoid is saying is that the stock turbo on the R33 has been known to fail on higher boost levels due to the speed it spins at and the heat it produces. so at 10psi it is about 3psi over stock and is quite comfortable for it. but no guarantees. also, at 10psi, you might not get the miss caused by R&R with stock ECU. what boost controller are you using?

sorry to dissapoint you mate, but I'm married and to a woman so I won't be going up any part of you. if you take out the coil pack and hold it in the position you take it out of the car, I started taping (tightly) from halway up the rubber part all the way up to the base of the coil. I went up going half over the tape each time round and then back down and back up and ended it there so it is like 3 layers. try to get good electrical tape like 3M or something rather than those 6 for $2 from the $2 stores. I haven't had any issues since then.

I'd start with maybe getting a transmission oil temp gauge first. that way, you can see what temps it sees that will help you decide if the fan is even required, and if it is, it will tell you how much it has helped. how about water spray aswell?

well your questions have been answered. 220rwkw can be expected at max with those mods. go forth and modify.

moooooona you had what, 250rwkw before? on the same boost, on a STOCK (read: stock pistons, rods, crank, gasket etc) RB30 bottom end, you would have that power or more, with loads more torque earlier in the rev range, and would be more reliable. If your head is ok, it would be the cheapest option for you. if the head is gonesky as well, then you need to look at it a few more ways. stock second hand rb25det from wreckers? stock rb30 bottom end, with stock rb26 head with new rings and bearings? I've seen rb26 heads complete with manifold, injectors and so on for about $2K Justinfox is selling a pair of 2530's for $1K (one has s blown seal or something but thye were both built by GCG using HKS cartridge or something) All bolted together you'd have some spastic amounts of power which a little girl like you could ever want.. Not sure what sort of $$$'s you are looking at spending here or can afford to spend but think it all through and do the math before making a choice. Finally... if you ever need someone to point and laugh at your misfortune, you know where to find me. well for the next 3 weeks anyway

good price mate. and it's good that the elbow pipe comes with it as they are a bastard to get on their own.. you should expect about 45 rb20 owners asking for the elbow alone.. hahahaha just to correct you on one thing. your turbo is identical to the series 1 turbo except it has a PLASTIC COMPRESSOR WHEEL (front of the turbo). the back is still ceramic. both the front and back wheels are the same size as series 1. it MAY spool up quicker due to the plastic front wheel being lighter and therefore having less resistance. the bigger rb25 turbo comes from the NEO r34 GTT. all that aside, this is a great price for a good upgrade for an RB20 owner. Why am I not buying it? wrong time, wrong place for me.. Good luck

it's not that complex moonie.. look for the user CUBES. in his signature, he has a PDF file which is like a DIY rb30det guide. go from there.. if you are going to be paying someone to fix your motor for you, might as well get them to do the 30 for ya. probably cost less. considering bottom end costs about $100 if you want forged goodies, then both bottom ends will cost the same. small mod to the vvt oil line small mod to the engine mounds and your done. so to speak

you said then pasted 2 links. one is a FUEL CUT DEFENDER (which you don't need cause RB's don't have a fuel cut) and the other is a SPEED CUT DEFENDER (will they spelt it defencer, that is why I was laughing) which removes the 180km speed limiter which the Skylines have. now I assumed that you had a speed cut problem where by you couldn't go faster than 180km/h so I thought it was obvious that you would want the "speed cut defender" and that is why I posted the other options which also eliminate the speed limiter.

it's not what you "have to do" but it is what gives the best result. no use in having an intercooler if you have stock boost. no use boosting it up if you don't have the intercooler to cool it and the ECU to make sure it has the right timing fuel and air etc.. exhaust, filter, bit of boost (say 10 psi) is doable on stock intercooler and stock ecu. get me?

LIAR!!! I say 5000rpm cause that is when most people see it when giving their 2nd gear a good flogging. in higher gears it will happen earlier as you can load up the engine at lower revs. try taping up your coil packs with electrical tape.

hybrid copies are fine. they are all the same except that HYBRID have plastered their name on the core.. it's the same core as the non marked ones, and comes from the same factory. it'll do the job and do it well. r33 turbo will make around 170-190 rwkw on about 13-14psi on an RB20 depending on dyno.

whyte - that email address does not work