TTT

a quick car car sales search will find a few manual soarers... not as many skylines but still.. around the $15K mark.

now that's sorted, lets get back to the discussion.. Thanks Konrad for your info. anyone else with experience in a soarer TT manual?

http://www.lextreme.com/1jzgtel.htm http://www.toysport.com/webpages/Techinfo/...taenginenew.htm http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?products_id=687 all say 280ps 206kw... and your info is from you saying "trust me" please post a link of some sort for proof.

link please.

well that didn't take long. first link in google searching for "1jzgte specs" http://www.speedtoys.com/~marcel/ta23/1jzgte/1jzgte.html seems the non vvt are 206kw

not sure about the turbo's.. they are also ceramic exhaust wheel'd. didn't know that they were 185kw in non vvt form.. will research that..

lets have a civil debate about this and try to think outside the RB world. both an R33 series 1, 1.5 or 2 can be had for about $15K manual soarers are now around $15K also. r33 gtst weighs what.. 1390kg? soarer weighs 1530kg with 10L of fuel and empty boot and no spare. (found this on a web site) both come with LSD and a tough 5 speed box. skyline = 187kw soarer = 206kw (apparently) both inline 6's that like to rev. RB's have oil control problems in extreme conditions. 1jz doesn't seem that have that. 1jz has a toyota tough bottom end which cops a fair bit more than the rb does before quiting. 1jz head is designed by yamaha and is seen as an upgrade for the 2jz 3L bottom end (so it's pretty damn good) not sure on stock 1/4 mile times on either car. now.. the weight (and I guess possibly looks) is the downside of the big toyota. and I'm not sure how much more power it needs to make the same 1/4 time as an r33 gtst. I'm sure there is some sort of calculation. anyway, I'm assuming this is going to be a one sided arguement on this forum but some people might take off there stove top glasses and look outside to see there are other things around.. lets get some decent posts here as to why you think one is better than the other. I hazard a guess that about 90% or more of the skylines here never see a drag strip or circuit so they are pretty much street only. so does the soarer then win over the r33? does the extra power and torque of the 1jz win over the more nimble r33 with less power and torque? discuss

it's true.. he's decent.. hahahaha my under standing is that you are saying it feels slow to come on boost when you've come off the gas, not between gears. yes the stock skyline bovs will handle 14 psi of boost. but you might have problem mounting it. You might want to consider a BOSCH bov. they are plastic, good for about 15 psi and are sold from repco type places for about $45. the reason I say this is because it is a universal fitting bov.. as in it doesn't have to be bolted in to place like the skyline ones do. just reading through what you've done, you're a handy bugger aren't ya? hahahaha well done. see what I mean by mounting.. skyline/vr4 bov bosch bov

what is this kit worth? does it fit the stock manifold? 239rwkw on neo is pretty decent at that 12.5 psi. wonder what it would be like on an RB20

series 1

bov and actuator are 2 very differnet things that do 2 very different jobs. one does not do the work of the other.. say for example, I was to knee cap you for asking bov questions. it would be like me saying, it's ok cause you can use your eye lids to do the work of your legs.. see... doesn't really work the same..

the only way to make the stock bov vent to atmo properly is to get a one way valve on to the venting end. this can be done. if you really want to, measure the OD of the bov outlet then go to a plumbing store with those measurements and look for a one way valve to fit over that OD. so on idle when the bov is open, air will not be sucked in from there. NOTE: this will alow you to get the sound you want but it doesn't prevent the running rich and so forth..

what sound does it make? did you make sure that the wastegate actuator arm is connected to the wastegate flap? if not, it will just stay open and you will get no boost. who fitted the turbo?

hey.. the car gets plenty of loving and is not frustrated at all. Gave it some loving on Sunday. washed it good!!! The paint even smells nice.. gotta love zymol car polish.. smells like coconuts!!!

wow straight answer. hahahahaha thanks mate.

such a shame.. if for any reason you have no luck and want to sell bits for stockers plus money, let me know. TT

YES and YES. Some of the 89 RB20's have water line differences. when you buy a turbo from an R33, try to get the ELBOW pipe (the first part of the intercooler pipe that bolts on to the turbo) with it as it is slightly bigger and the holes on the rb20 turbo elbow pipe are slightly offset to the rb25 trubo and will need to be drilled out if you don't have the rb25 turbo elbow pipe. now. to all of the above info (some of which should be deleted by a mod to prevent stupidity rising).. Add to it this bit of info. Compressor wheels = impeller, Intake wheel, inlet wheel, front wheel and any other word that describes the blades of the turbo on the front. Exhaust wheel = outlet, back wheel, or what ever you want to call the turbo's wheel at the back of the turbo where the exhaust bolts up to it. R32 RB20 turbo is ball bearing, steel (or some sort of metal) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel. R33 sI rb25 turbo is ball bearing, steel (or some sort of metal) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel (flows 25% more than stock rb20 turbo at same boost) R33 sII rb25 turbo is ball bearing, plastic (or some sort of nylon compound) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel. r34 GTT rb25 turbo is ball bearing, plastic (or some sort of nylon compound) compressor, ceramic exhaust wheel and is slightly bigger exhaust housing they all bolt on to RB20's (keeping in mind the 89 model rule and the elbow pipe) if I were you, I'd look for a R33 sI turbo... pay about $300-$350 and bolt it on using your rb20's actuator. actually, I will do just this in the near future, but I will run it at 14 psi.

spot on. finish off the exhaust. replace pods with stock air box and good panel filter, then maybe mod the box to get more air into it. electronic boost controller PFC tune for midrange instead of outright power and you'll love it. should cost about... $500 - turbo's to cat pipes $500 - EBC $200 - air box and filter $1000 - PFC $500 - tune

damn.. that makes me angry.. therefore it should be sold to me.. ok.. I'll pm you my phone number and you can give us a buzz or sms if still avialable.

dibs on stock bovs. pm me your contact details and I'll contact you on weekend. Also in sydney.

if you can do it, then youd be silly not to go for the extra capacity and torque that goes with it.

so can be painted over after light sanding?

I don't want it blue or polished. I want it black. blue cools the air? this crack you smoking.. how much does it cost?

Blitz be correct. so can I light sand and spray over?

ok. however, I question why someone who needs to "hold big psi" doesn't have $200 for a bov. this "big psi" is obviously not comming fro the stock turbo, so you would have spent about $2K on a turbo. about another $2K for supporting mods for fuel and clutch and so forth. intercooler, wastegate, possibly a full rebuild with forged bits etc... I don't think another $200 for a bov from say GFB is going to break the bank... But if by big PSI you are talking about 1 bar from stock turbo, don't worry.. the stocker can handle it. if you are talking big psi like 30 psi making something over 600rwkw from a 2jzgte or rb26, then don't worry, the stock pair of $150 GTR bovs handles that too. The Stock SR20 bov from S14-15 has been tested with 100psi on both sides of the piston (just like when you are on boost) and it doesn't leak. of course releasing 100 psi might be an issue for the piston and opening of th ebov but that's a different story.. point is, making a bov maybe satisfying, but in the end it's useless when a stocker can be had for same price or less, and work better. I think that the guy that made the $22 boost controller.... he made something usefull. even when they were being sold for $22, he was still making a tiny profit and it was a device that works very well and was needed and useful. anyway, my view only.