TTT

Spotted gunmetal grey Cefiro AWx.xxx somthing like that. was behind me all the way from Ashfield Bunnings till we got on to Gladesville bridge. Had IS MOTORSPORT sticker on the front window.. and looked to have flared guards.. ??? Once on the bridge, I got up to about 75-80km's as fast as I could only to hear a distinct rb26 howl as a grey blur went past me.. angry, angry car..

those Hybrid copy just jap intercooler kits.. the ones that come with the blue piping.. what are the pipes made of? how are they painted blue? Can I get the colour off or paint over it? if so, with what?

why bother? is ther esomething worng with the stocker? or GTR ones you can buy for $150 for the pair? or the cheapo aftermarket ones which would be made just like the one you plan on making? just seems like a waste of time, effort, money, time.

Hybrid as a brnad are the coolers available here.. Apexi make a intercooler core which they say is a Hybrid core.. as in a hybrid between bar and plate, and tube and fin.

bump

Saw this post and was about to reply with TOP post. good work. Then I saw... I stick by my inital thoughts throughout this post of "what a tosser"

the piston failure is due to the fuel rail design and the fact that it's closer to turbo I believe. MRT fuel rail fixes that issue. daveo - good point on what it goes in to.. lets say some sort of kit car...??

what chamber?

without being biased on engines, and without bringing the actual CHASSIS in to the arguement, I want to have a discussion about which engine is better in certain conditions. as a starting point. 89 - 93 rb20det silver top (160kw etc) 89 - 93 ej20t - from RS liberty (147kw etc) now these engines are of the same vintage. rb has more power. don't have the torque figures handy. lets say for street, drag or circuit. both engines like to rev. both are fairly low in compression. now I know for a fact that there are a few liberty RS's around (if not MOST rs's) that have over 220,000kms on the standard engine, carting around a 1400kg car for 15 years. highway driving maybe when new, but as they got cheaper all the hoodlums got to them (generalisation yes...) the rb's are known for their oil control problem as SK recently posted in a thread on here. ej's of this vintage are usually compared to the "calm before the storm" when driving below 3000rpm, which I guess could be said for the rb20 as well. apart from hydrolic lifter issues on the ej's, I don't know of any obvious problems. so the questions.. for street, drag or circuit, which engine is actually better from a power, reliability and bang for buck point of view. both engines can be had complete for about $700 from wreckers. both engines can have bolt ons to make power. you can compare stock for stock or modded if you like. remember, keep the chassis out of this arguement. no "understeer this and that" bullshit. also, I know for a fact that the RS Liberty EJ (and probably all of them really) is a shit load lighter than the RB. my brother and I were able to pick one up off the floor and put on back of ute together where as the RB we couldn't even lift one side together. the EJ's are alloy.. anyway.. let the conversation begin. SK - I know how you feel about subawho in general, but taking the chassis/4wd out of it, you might find something you like about them... maybe..

I have 2 questions and I will start a seperate thread for the other one which will probably get a one sided response... anyway.. for this topic.. Closed deck and so forth are frequently spoken about in Subawho circles in regards to the engine. apparently the RS turbo Liberty's were the only ones with a closed deck and all the WRX ej20's after that have been semi closed deck.. and the NA ej engines are all open deck. so that's all lovely, but what is it in reference to? why is closed deck better? is this "DECK" type something in all engines or just the boxer motors? if in all engines, what are the RB range of engines? cheers..

spotted FST-32R on my work on saturday around lunch time at five dock, flashed, got wave back. spotted SKYHI in burwood just earlier at lunch. if you are on here.. get rid of that f*king wing. it's almost higher than the roof.

Welcome to the forums. My answers are in ITALIC in the quote above.. under your points..

one of these same apart from the plates I'd say this is what started the "BITSAMISSING" tag.

this friend of yours... once he becomes a mechanic, which shop does he plan on working for.. you know.. just so I don't take my car there.

buy new boost gauge. VDO make good accurate gauges and are very cheap

new O2 sensor will fix nothing on your car

Gary you cut and pasted.. or did you use the 5 chalk holder thingy that music teachers use?

If you want help, I can be available saturday afternoon around Ashfield.

I think that the fact that you now have about 2 x the boost you had before, you are blowing out the spark. there are a few things you can try which will cost you nothing but some of your time. 1.) take out your spark plugs and gap them down to 0.8mm. if they already are, drop them back to 0.7mm. 2.) with some electrical tape, tape up the coil packs. there is a guide on this in the maintenance section of these forums. I did the above 2 points 2 weeks ago and my car revs out smoothly now. mine is an rb20 but same edal. runs a little more boost than stock. I suggest you try the 2 things above as they are free and MAY fix the issue. If you are in Sydney, I can help you do it if you like.

they work it off LBS of air it can flow at given psi of boost. that one of yours flows 38LBS/min of air at what ever boost they rate it at. cool?

explain exactly what happens at this 6000rpm mark. does it cut the power completely.. like is it violent? is it like a rev limiter where it stutters and kinda back fires? doest it keep reving up but kinda misses? what happens to the boost gauge when this "CUT" happens? still sit at 15 or drop? with more description and those answered, people can give you a better response as to what the problem is. at the moment it could be.. AFM max spark blowing out due to excess boost. coil packs arc'ing out etc...

*Sends SK a pm regarding oil control* kidding, kidding..

is there anything outside PFC that is plug and play? like base maps when plugged in to RB20 powered R32 (89-93) will work like factory.. so you can drive to a tuner?

not worth the hassle. you will need a new adapter to fit it. for your S13 you're best upgrade is an S15 turbo. they are about $900 new and cheaper second hand. they work brilliantly on early SR's and even the CA18's. forget the rb turbo. to make sure you get what you are told from the S15 turbo's, check out the garrett part numbers.. 466541 = ball bearing 466543 = bush bearing for the second bit of the number -001 = S14 turbo (no splitter between wastegate and turbine exit) -002 = S15 turbo (splitter between wastegate and turbine exit)

Don't think it's the right section but I don't care.. Put me down for center and passenger side. PM me when they arrive