TTT

gaskets cost about $30 I think. install should cost about $250-$300 don't forget to use the actuator off the stock RB20 turbo on the new turbo. gives you 10 psi whout boost conrtoller as the stock one does. oh.. other than the Elbow off the turbo, you will also have to drill and tap a nipple on to the compressor cover or intercooler pipe for the wastegate hose. to drill the comp cover, you will need to take it off the turbo. I guess same goes for intercooler pipe.

which model SR? S13 sr20 = 370cc S14 sr20 = 370cc S15 sr20 = 440cc

Can I make a suggestion. to prevent further piss taking, by others, on you.... you don't post on here about your dyno queen until you run in the low 11's or a 10 at some mph that you think you can. you're just making a fool of yourself.. talking yourself up.. LNEMUP bro.. and so forth.. then making excuses about diffs and radiator caps. sorry to sound harsh but you had it comming. SK predicted a 12.5 at 120mph and you arc'd up and said just like a little kid who's just been told his toys aren't as good as he thinks they are... and what happened? you didn't even get the time he predicted. then ADRIAN just posted he drove a car with 285rwkw (probably with stock diffs and radiator cap on) and got a much better time and a higher terminal speed. props to you for getting such numbers from an internally stock rb25.. I've got no issues there, but your attitude just pisses me off. LNEMUP.... for f**ks sake.. was 2SIK4U2C2BME4U taken? attitude adjustment needed in isle 5.

interesting site at a quick glance.. http://www.blackcircles.com/tyres/michelin

have you had a look at michelin pilot sports?

a boost controller is not a band aid fix. all bost controllers by pass the factory solenoid. they either have their own or as a bleed valve, bleed the air off. if it fixed the problem of overboosting, then leave it on there. if you want 12psi, go back to mechanic and get them to put the timing back to where they found it before they "FIXED" it.

gees. you must have spent a FORTUNE buying every single boost controller ever made and testing them all yourself.

I almost shed a tear... but I am too Manly.. good for you mate. I'm glad you got it back. were they driving it around with your plates on it?

1.) turn caps lock off. 2.) use a K&N or piper cross or trust panel filter in stock air box. people are making way over 200rwkw some even over 250rwkw using the stock air box. they get no defects, they get cold air to motor. pod filter will increase your induction SOUND but will not make any more power than a good panel filter in the box. and will cost the same.

your middle name is "and lets face it"? how odd

r33 turbo's usually have a few numbers on it like 42V5 or similar. without taking it off, you can't really tell if it has been rebuilt/hi flowed either. if it is getting that much boost and more unless you back off, I'd guess that the wastegate is not seeing any air supply and just not opening at all. I'd check the wastegate hose for a leak or blokage.

I have a 3.5 inch cat back system that needs a rear muffler. $120. pics are on the sale parts in the forums.

R33's run really rich once boost is increased. this in turn makes the computer retard the timing. so that is why after like 10psi the cur runs crap. solution = new ECU or an AFM signal bender like SAFC. as mentioned above.

NA valve springs are not as strong as the DET ones.

brand unknown. rear muffler is crushed. see pics

I actually forgot to mention things like work to the pistons head and skirt to get around not having piston oil squirters. money money

let us know when you come back. I'll let you side step the clutch in the gts4.

front pipe gone. cat back still available

fine.. ignore good info

gts-4me - I would seriously sit down and put numbers to this plan of yours. You haven't said what mods you have so I am going to assume you have the standard mods of, exhaust, filter, boost controller and fmic... I'll give you some rough numbers on doing it on the cheap and doing it yourself. my plan was to do a budget rb30det build for my gts4 and get about 280-300rwkw. here is a small but crucial list. $100 = rb30 bottom end $750 = rb25de head from r32 $300 = valve springs from rb25det (used) $250 = VRS Gasket kit $300 = New bearings and new rings $200 = New timing belt and pulley $150 = New water pump $300 = AFM (Z32 or Q45) $300 = Fuel Pump $600 = Decent clutch to handle the new torque $300 = GTR injectors (6 x 444cc should be enough for the 280-300rwkw) $1900 = GT30 (500hp internally gated turbo) $450 = 4wd sump adapter $500 = mods to the above sump adapter (not something you can really do yourself) $1300 = R32 power fc $500 = Tune Now this is assuming you can do it all/most yourself. as in, you have an engine stand, you have all the right tools and space to do it all. if you don't and need someone to put all these things together, modify the engine mounts so the motor sits lower, bolt it all together, put it in car ... add another $1000 at least. now, if you go easy on your stock GTS4 gearbox, it'll last for a while. you break it??? buy a gtr one for about $1000, plus who knows what dollars for mods to fit it to standard diffs and shafts. so lets see, what this new rb30det gts4 on the cheap costs. $8200 = parts. $1000 = someone putting it together and putting it in car $1000 = gtr box your other options.. build rb23 or 24 - probably a little cheaper than above as you use your bottom end and therefore don't need the 4wd adapter stuff. still... over $5K on parts and machining. rb25 from stagea (4wd block) = engine alone is worth about $3500 putting it in, making it work, blah blah = $5K rb26dett = $5K on average for the engine and you don't even know it's condition.. expensive cars to modify these things.. well at least to get good power out of..

bottom end might be $100, but the adapter is $450 minimum. mods to make it work on 4wd = another couple of hundred. mods to the vvt head to make the vvt work = dollars. oil restrictors to the head = small dollars mods to engine mounts = more dollars. new turbo due to 3L sucking your current turbo dry at idle = $1900 minimum. to make use of this turbo and capacity, you'd want injectors, fuel pump and new tune = many more hundreds. if you don't have the PFC already to run all this = $1000 New AFM to make use of all these goodies during the tune = $300 + as much has I hate to say it, my rb30 dreaming days are over for the gts4. I'm stuck with the ROYb20det.. I've worked out I should be able to get to a REAL goal of about 200rwkw with about $4K and still have a drivable road car without TOO much extra lag. I'll save my rb30 dreams for the future.. if I can be bothered. so ROY - can I come back to the clan?

if you'll take $300, I'll take it next week. pm me if you like. if not... god luck with sale

pfft ... rubbish

anti-clockwise to loosen clockwise to tighten. right?

blind elk - did you use a rb25 from a stagea or did you buy and modify a 4wd sump adapter?