TTT

search for "rich+retard" it doesn't mean you are a rich retard.... you might be... who knows.. but that's not what the search will find you. it's why you can't run more boost without it playing up.

big money for no reason mate.. I just don't understand some people.. good luck.

a hole in an iron block does not happen at low revs surely. Come on.. what kind of WORKSHOP can say that what you have taken a photo of (current hole in block) happened during the car going up a ramp, and keep a straight face.. what a knut!!!

you best be shaking in your boots SK .

I did say my example was for arguements sake.. fact is that his hks actuator which allows him to see 14.5 psi, is actually opening before that.. and a boost controller which allows control of "RAMP/GAIN" what ever you want to call it, will make the boost come on stronger.. even if he doesn't change the final psi figure. also, if you've ever seen a dyno graph with 2 different boost settings (lets say 10 psi and 15 psi), the 15psi run will get to 10psi faster than the 10 psi setting. as you said, due to the fact that the wastegate does not open as early. so as someonelse in this thread already said.. WIND UP THE BOOST

I don't think that matters. if it came on a tow truck with a complaint of making knocking sound, and the block was without hole in side.... they broke it.

well the way I see it.. hks actuator is set to 1bar right? so in order for it to be a smooth transition, it probably cracks open a little at a lower boost pressure than that. for arguements sake, lets say it starts to open at 8 psi.. so you have all gasses going through exhaust wheel until 8psi, where it bleeds some out of the wastegate flap.. this opens more and more until it is open enough to flow only 14psi worth to the engine. if you had a boost controller of some sort, it would stay shut for longer.. not all can do it but to name a few.. JAY CAR boost controller. SK has posted on here about how you can pretty much keep the wastegate completely shut till the set limit at which time it will fly open. this will give you much more kick in the back than just actuator control. autospeed DIY boost controller Once again good old SK has explained how good a device it is. for like $100 of parts, you can build your own. it has 2 knobs where one controlls the boost pressure you want to run, and the other controlls at WHAT boost pressure the wastegate starts to open before fully opening at set boost level. both the above have been posted on SAU.. search and you'll find it. but then I think to myself... "the man has an HKS turbo on his car, he has dosh to buy jap Electronic boost controller" at this thought, there is a world of options. Most EBC's have a "GAIN" or "RAMP" funciton.. pretty much a fancy word to describe how hard the boost comes on, which is due to keeping the wastegate shut for longer.

I can describe the sound of a screamer pipe on stock turbo. Get one of your mates. feed him large plate of baked beans. after about 2 hours, when he feels his stomache expand and make noises slowly traveling down his stomach to his ass, quickly lie on the floor on your side, with your left or right ear facing up towards the ceiling, get your mate to pull his pants down, undies too... get him to press his hairy arsehole to your upward pointing ear... then tell him to let it rip!!! there you have it.. screamer pipe off stock turbo, stock wastegate. NOTE: Tell your friend to try and not follow through and shit all up side your head.

*pics up hair and sticks on own head* so R31Nismoid... can I make this screamer pipe make flutter noises bro? ps - don't ban me.. I was simply asking the next question for the man.

I would say best option... 1.) full service replacing all oils and fluids (engine, diff, gearbox, power steering, attessa, brakes, radiator, etc..), spark plugs, all filters (oil, fuel, air), timing belt, water pump, and probably other belts. Clean injectors. Compression test to make sure it is healthy. Now that the car is Healthy.... buy and install these. 2.)new fuel pump, power fc, boost controller 3.) tune for safe tune, on our fuel, at something below 1 bar boost. this should give you a decent power increase, and have a car which is safe and probably last for a long time if treated right. I'd say the above would cost under $5K guessing $2K on service and $3K for parts and tune

wether he thrashed it or idled it doesn't matter. you towed it there with a problem, then they DROVE it to storage, it broke. they are liable. I say go there, with a tape recorder and say "After I had my car TOWED to you with the instruction that it has a knock sound, what EXACTLY happened from that moment until the time my block got a "speed hole". " it's legal to record a conversation if ONE party knows it is being recorded. that be you!

to the author.. what boost controller do you have?

if you are LUCKY. if you are unlucky, ceramic bits go BACK in to the engine, giving it a good internal exfoliation

Not another one!!!! I know a cheaper way mate. spend some of your money on a corolla. then spend the rest of your $7K or so on steroids, hit the gym, get fcuking massive and when any of your xr/clubadore mates says anything about your corolla, go nuts, rip their arms off, and beat them to death with them.

if you say so

first thing first. If you are in Sydney, I'll help you do it on a weekend or something if you are too worried about it. that said, if you want to do it yourself.. . here goes. that pipe that your blitz bov is on, is a direct replacement of a pipe in your car.. probably the one that goes from TURBO to INTERCOOLER. so just un clamp and remove old one and put that one in. now. the stock bov. you need to block it off. if you don't want to make an adapter plate (fancy word for piece of metal) then you need to block it with something else. either way, you have to remove it first. to remove it, take off the THIN hose on top of it. take it's clamp off and slide it off the bov's nipple with pliers. then take the LARGE plumback hose off. remove clamp and pull hose off. the bov should be sitting there with nothing attached to it. 2 bolts hold it in place. take them off and the bov comes off. when you have it off the car, look under it. see that large hole and the little hole to the side.. they need to be blocked off. Most people just trace the outline of the base of the bov on to a piece of metal and cut it out. then mark where the holes for the bolt go and drill them out. then you put that down under the bov and bolt it back on. this basically blocks off the bov. now the LARGE return hose needs to be plugged up too. many options there. I believe that a D size battery fits.. you then use the clamp that was being used to connect it to the bov, to hold the battery clamped in there. the THIN hose on the top of the bov will be used for your new blitz bov.. or at least where it comes from. your blitz bov will need a vacuum source to work. so you may need to get a new length of hose to go from where the stock bovs THIN hose plugs in to the plenum, all the way across to your blitz bov. make sure everything is bolted in properly and tightly and go for a drive. Blitz bov should make a psshhh sound. if you hear a fluttering sound at anything under 3 psi, that's fine. if you hear fluttering at full boost then you will need to adjust the bov a little. the adjuster should be a screw ON TOP of the piston.. unscrewing it a little will make it BLOW OFF at lower psi.. you will need to find a setting where it blows off properly and doesn't make the car stall. NOW!! with this new hektik bov bro, you will find that. 1.) your car runs crap 2.) your rear bumper always has black soot spots or worse due to running rich. 3.) your car backfires on gearchanges 4.) you constantly drive hard just to hear it for at least the first 2 weeks, increasing the chance of getting booked, defected etc.. good luck

aquariuz6 - mate I have a 3.5 inch cat back system which needs a new muffler. I'll sell it to you for $120.. a 3inch muffler will cost you about $200 say $50 for fitting for $370, you will have a car that will sound great and actually improve performance. a screamer pipe is higly illegal in NSW as it is sending exhaust gases out without going through cat. In NSW, the fine for NOT having a cat (which is what a screamer pipe essentially is) is $10,000. now.. you tell me. $370 for improved sound and performance? or $10K for nothing..

Please let me know if still available in 1 week

how many km's on engine before it came off? series 1 or 2 r33? Including the elbow off the turbo (first part of the pipe for intercooler)? Cheers

all my road trips revolve around eating.. LOL

well done all with new PB's. LOL at Mona and her secretive turbo.. I'll take highest bid to tell them what she has.

if you have a standard computer and want toreset it, disconnect the battery. step on the brake pedal while th ebattery is disconnected. this will drain power completely from the car. once you connect the battery back up, start it up and take your car for a thrash. the ECU is fresh and learns from the first drive and sets timing and idle as required. well that's how it works for R32 ecu's anyway. reseting is the same on both cars. but as for learning, not sure about R33's.

Negative.. that was back in 2003. old turbo sold and car sold long ago.

rb20 = left, rb25 = right same as above rb20 turbo off 92 gtst rb20 turbo with comp cover off rb25 turbo with comp cover off sorry about the quality of the pics, this is back when 1.3 megapixels were only for the richies!!