TTT

1.0 Bar = 14.5 psi. you have 20 little lines on your gauge from 0 - 1.0 therefore each little line on your gauge is 0.05 bar. which is equal to 0.725psi. go for a spin, plant your right foot and see what it gets to at say about 4500-5000rpm. WARNING: lack of far left pedal can cause boredom to the driver and piss taking of them, by their mates.... or people on intraweb forums.. any other questions?

press far left pedal to the floor with left foot. using left hand, put little knob in front of stereo, between your seat and passenger seat in to 1st gear. apply a little bit of pressing on the far right pedal with right foot, and increase this pressure while releasing the far left pedal slowly.. DON"T BE ALARMED!!!! Car will start forward momentum. when the big hand on the dash reaches about 30km, change gears in to 2nd as described above for 1st gear. now let go of the far left pedal, and stick far right pedal to floor. keep eye on the road and take small glimpse at this pictured turbo gauge above. when car is making lots of noise and big hand on dash reaches about 70km, take foot off far right pedal and put it lightly on centre pedal. while you were taking small glimpses at the turbo gauge you should have taken notice of what the red stick got to.. once you have done this, post back on here and tell us what marker the red stick got to. we can then tell you how much boost your engine is eating. any questions?

a little past 7 on the stock gauge is somewhere near 14psi mate.. A vdo boost gauge will set you back about $40 and are very accurate. cheap insurance if you ask me. if it only does it when cold, don't worry about it. like I said, drive sedately it till it is at half temp, then about 2 minutes after that it is good to go. I'm surprised you thrash it when it is stone cold. that like getting out of bed putting some shoes on and lining up for a 100m sprint in the olympics.. meaning it's gonna break/pull/strain something.

hope all goes well for you mate. I see alot of conflicting versions of run in. oils and methods. I have NEVER seen greas used where you have though. hope it doesn't cause worse damage.

stock computer = no tune.

from what I can see, the only power making bit there is the headwork. maybe the engine is still tight. was there more torque?

get him R31nismoid

it's double post city here..

NEMZ - wow... that has to be the most misguided reply yet. noakespg - give more information. 1.) is the car at normal operating temps when it does this or when it still shows cold on the factory temp gauge. after how many minutes of driving does it stop doing this? 2.) have you checked all the intercooler piping and clamps? 3.) have you checked the vacuum line to the bov, to the bleed valve, and the plumback hose of the bov? from my experience. rb20's seem to have this wierd CHOKE funciton when cold. when my car is cold, it is JERKY so to speak untill about 5 minutes of regular (no boost, nothing over 3000rpm) driving. then the choke goes off. the best way I can describe the feeling is that it's like the car is being held back then quickly released (to describe the jerkyness). once it is warm, this doesn't happen. I ask you to check the pipes and clamps cause you said it happens at 4000rpm (ish)... this is when the turbo has hit full boost and all the pipes and intercooler are all fully pressurised.. this may be causing a lose clamp to allow some air to escape.. and it doesn't do it as when it heats up the pipe may be expanding a little to keep it from escaping.. (just a long shot here) I also say the vacuum line to the bov and hose for plumb back. if the vacuum line has a split, it will bleed air and the bov will open early as it doesn't have any pressure above the piston and when you come on boost, it will just be forced open. how do you know how much boost you car is set to if you don't have a boost gauge? what does the factory boost gauge read when you have your foot burried? give some more info and there may be more to help you.

how did you manage a double post.. in the one post? hahahahaha but good point.. points.. twice..

yes same off set. no spacers used. it fits nicely and looks wider than stock wheels. only issue is that the front left wheel rubbs against the inner plastic guard when reversing with full lock left. and sometimes forward too.. you can see in the pics that it is pretty much inline with the guards.

fatz. a (probably white) baseball cap won't wome off no matter how fast you go due to the fact that he would have had it on sidewayzzzzz or backwards in true fooli sick fashion. I'm sorry to say that I believe you are now too old and mature since you didn't know this fact. w3rd, fo shizzle, and insert other stupid made up words used by african american gangsters in movies, here.

I married one half of identical twins. does that count?

so do you have a boost gauge? or are you seeing this BOOST displayed on the wolf screen? I know you said wolf is controlling the boost, but where are you seeing the reading?

flash, beep and wave next time..

get a set of stock rims. or even R33 rims with 225's. I'd say this would get you a better overall time than the 18's. try different launch styles. try 500rpm higher or lower each time to find perfect spot for you. try slipping the clutch a little till it gets moving then jumping off it. try jumping straight off the clutch. it's just practice. on my s14 with 175rwkw and heavy 17x9's with 255's at 22psi air in them, best I managed was a 13.8 with 1.9 60" stock clutch and stock turbo. I was due to go back with 300zx wheels with 225's on them but never got that far. I hope that helps some

kinda off topic, but what I'd really like to see (well more so HEAR) is an RB31 hi compression in NA form using the 6 throttles with trumpets on them, with a hi flowing exhaust. sure might not make the power of the turbo ones, but it would sound awesome. even more off topic, anyone got that video clip of the original race GTR which they pulled out for a few laps of some jap circuit that was being renovated or something.. awesom sound...

it was meant to be light hearted fella. no harm done. I should try to use smilies occasionally.

the bovs are the same. both Mitsubishi parts. actually, same bov on the vr4. you wanna know what the vr4 boys do to their bovs to hold more boost? http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/answe...atisacrushedBOV fyi - 1g = first generation.. vr4 here, talon in states etc..

stock bov has 2 things attached to it. 1.) vacuum line (connects to the little nipple on top of the bov). this line can be taken from many places.. try fuel pressure regulator line or one of many other vacuum lines near the plenum. 2.) the PLUMBACK hose.. it is the largish hose that goes from the front of the bov back to the air intake pipe. you can see the plumback hose in this pic..

roy - supra side mount will not fit skyline side mount spot. but it would be nice.. they are 110mm thick

pfft

it's like some people don't even rad other replies before they post. an rb25 using stock computer can't boost up to 1 bar. it will hit many issues. 1.) ecu will run really rich and retard timing causing a dip in power and like said above, not hold boost. 2.) all the extra boost will blow out the spark of the spark plugs causing the engine to miss and make it slower than a car running under 10 psi boost. unless you are using the car for circuit racing where you are constantly on full throttle and back off for short time, the stock side mount will cope fine with 2-3 psi exta.. on the street where you accelerate to 60 or 100, will be on the throttle for about 8 seconds at most... then you cruise.. the side mount gets heat soaked then cools as you cruise off boost. drag racing.. you are on the trottle for 15 seconds or less. then you wait for like 40 minutes before next one with your car off.. so it's cool again.. and I already explained how a boost controller helps spool the turbo up faster above.

almost.. this has a torque split gauge in the dash

it was a joke post man.. far out.