TTT

Your thoughts are right.

so you are doing this conversion to get cheap iunsurance? and you don't plan to tell the insurance company that you have an RB26 in your gtst? you don't think that they can tell when you smash it and they use the jaws of life to cut your bonnet off to see an RB26dett smiling at them?

www.fortheloveof.com.au

Brett, what did he "GIVE" you for Valentines day when you called him?

it's the pipe kit. a lot of nissan silvia guys were getting this too. one guy on there has a workshop where he does pipe work (exhaust, intake, intercooler etc) and none of the cars he's done with hybrid or hybrid copy cores, using his pipes have the wistle sound, but a lot of (not all) the hybrid type coolers that come as kits with piping, make the stupid whistle sound.

dumb c**ts... I posted this in the last flutter thread.. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=28060&hl=stock read it and shut your holes.

^^^^ thank fcuk someone said that.. 10 posts and no-one thought about adjusting it?

ouch

wow... rb30 bottom end = $100 sump adapter = $500 say $2K for fitting it all together with required belts and hoses. you'd have a newly built 3L gtr for about $15K oh how I wish this was in a different time in my life.. *SIGH*

I always like going back to the MINES GTR thing. ridiculously fast, has stock air box with custom intake. so it uses a panel filter of all things.. and I think it still has stock intake pipe rom Air box to turbos too. So why isn't it good enough for you?

is this car a street car? or do you put it on a trailer, take it to events, race it in a straight line really fast, then trailer it back? if anything other than the trailer option, get a intake and filter on it.

1.) why would you need 500+rwkw? 2.) why would you use a shitty 25 de head when you can use the much better 26 dett head 3.) since when did ANY rb30 blocks have piston oil squirters. 4.) why would you use the stock crank when chasing around 850hp? Make sure you post in the "how much is too much power" thread. you have a rwd skyline. you have not said what you want to do with this car with 500rwkw.. anything other than drag racing would be a waste of tyres on the damn thing. you won't be able to do circuit racing and use that power. v8 super cars or the bathurst GTR for that matter have/had about 650hp BU5TER now running 10 something has less power than 500rwkw from what I can remember. I doubt a 0.84 rear T04Z will give you that power. I doubt a stock RB25 gear box will handle that power. I doubt stock diff will handle it for long. I might just sound like an old man, but what the hell could you possibly need 500rwkw in a RWD 1350kg car? *waits for "pull mad skidz" comments*

you're using the 30eT bottom end?

search for "piper cross" filters have a read

stock rb30 bottom end from a series 2 VL non turbo.. there are a couple of people making good power. guy on here used a series 2 VL rb30 bottom end (with over 300,000kms on it) stuck a stock RB25 head with upgraded valve springs, GT3540 turbo, external wastegate, 16 psi boost and made 306rwkw. that's one good example. SK has built a few in his time. one of his has now got over 70,000kms making 450hp. RB30 bottom end can be had for about $100. put in new rings and genuine bearings, your current oil pump, new water pump, new tensioners and new timing belt. you current head will bolt on to it with no problems. you will need to work out a way to get oil to the head for the VVT to work. there is a great DIY guide put together by user on here CUBES. there is a link to it in his signature file. yes it will be heaps more streetable at 300rwkw compared to the rb25 at same power. Brakes - cheapest way to get more braking power would be some DBA slotted cross drilled discs, new Feroddo brake pads, Motul dot 5 or higher if available brake fluid, and a brake master brace. or you can go all out and get some big brembo's and suitable discs. LSD and suspension will all help with traction. do a search in the appropriate section on sau.. there is a braking and suspension section .

keep the 33. you've got no mods on the thing yet. probably got close to stock power. that's why it's so reliable. and will stay so. you wanna go all out for close to 300rwkw and reliable? just buy the bits required on the stock internals. when it pops, get a RB30 bottom end and bolt it all on to that. cost you piss all and will make the power you want reliably, at lower psi and at lower revs.. with more torque. if you buy an R32 GTR and spend say $5K to do things that SHOULD be done... new turbo's exhaaust ecu intake tuning compression test etc.. then that will last a long itme too. but you wanna go all out, it will be a money pit.. your choice.. 300rwkw can be had from your current car with much less money than doing up a gtr from scratch.

looks nice.. should post price

come on man... bro and uleh can't be used in the same sentence.. get your shit together uleh. yallahbye..

gtr fuel pump + 4 inch exhaust does not = 170rwkw on rb20det. 15.0 1/4 pass proves that. rebuilt to stock r33 turbo will be good for close to 190rwkw with about 1 bar boost. Q45 afm will not work with stock ecu. external gate for sound = wanker did I miss anything?

*shakes fist at Speed Safe*

May not happend ... BUT... if you ever get to the point where you want to get rid of it for $400, let me know. live near by too. Cheers TT

same turbos, ball bearing. R34 is different and N1 turbos are different.

this is for a gtr mate.. there is 2 for sale. from what you've typed you have an R33 gtst. so NO.. not for you. I doubt he'd want to split them up

walbro pumps are supposed to be 255L/hr so with a dedicated wiring to it (instructions can be found in this section) they can flow enough to something like 270rwkw

there is a sticky rb20 turbo dyno graph thread above.. go look at what turbo they use to get what power