TTT

the car does NOT need a huge cannon. You can change the rear muffler to what you want, and maybe add another resonator muffler between the cat and the cannon you now have and it will quieten it down a little more.. just try to find ones that are the same diameter of the piping. You will lose a little power.. not much Don't need to do a recondition unless it has a problem.. why bother.. yes you can put a turbo engine from the same family.. R32, R33, R34 etc.. Your car has the NICS RED TOP RB20det. R32 came with the ECCS SILVER TOP RB20det which made more power and torque. A silvertop from an R32 costs about $1000 for the complete motor. Probably less if you look around. Your car is NOT a single cam, it is a DOHC like the R32 and so on. no other mods are required for having an R32 turbo on your car. it is only a VRY MILD upgrade if that even. A bigger turbo than that which you might want to do is the turbo from the R33 series skyline which has the 2.5L RB25det engine. This turbo is a good upgrade for RB20 owners (red and silver top). Cost varies from about $350 (which I had paid for my one back a while ago) to about $500 Even that turbo bolts right in without any other mods as long as you get the first "ELBOW" shaped pipe from the turbo to intercooler with it. apart from the skyline's Ceramic exhaust wheel which tend to fail when an increase of heat and speed (due to increased boost) I don't think there is anything that sticks out. as for more modifications, follow the path of the air.. intake - free up the air filter(get cold air in) intercooler - a front mounted intercooer (FMIC) is a good upgrade.. kits can be had for about $550 these days from Just Jap. Full exhaust - it is common for people to get a larger exhaust from the CAT back to the rear muffler.. so the exhaust from the back of the turbo (refered to as the DUMP PIPE), down through the FRONT PIPE, to the cat can be upgraded.. as should the cat if not already done. all these goodies can be bought from these forums. BATMBL (a member of these forums) sells these exhaust bits and occasionally sells air filters too. Hope my essay helps out. TTT

I say the 30 stays not sure what the compression is in standrd rb30 form but a low boost example would probably be doable. or you could read the rb30 thread above... and instead of upgrading to an RB25 in the future, build a twin cam 3L turbo.

7 knee surgeries? man.. just chop it off.

how long you keeping your car?

in 1 inch.. no.. not loud at all. at 5 inches.. yes it would be loud. glad to help.

Both the wheels of the rb25 turbo are bigger than the rb20 ones. I measured them when I upgraded my last rb20.

BUMP - FUNKY.. did you end up going to see them last week at the factory? did you see the seat covers yourself yet? cheers

I think the thread was called "$22 boost controller" or something. got one on my car. works perfect. Dr Drift also makes similar items now for about $35

REL.15H do a search at dictionary.com for dictionary and thesaurus meanings.

Confused would we????

1 bar = 14.7 psi. n1's are pretty expensive from what I've seen... over $2K?? they seem to be good for about 1.2 bar (17-18psi)

vg30 turbo is bigger than rb25..

I'd say not much more than 200rwkw... it seems the RB25 afm (which has same resolution as rb20) allows tuning on the Rb25 up to about 220rwkw. considering you would need more boost (air in) in an RB20 to do it, 200rwkw is a good guess. you would probably get close to 200rwkw with those mods at about 14-16 psi of boost.

just wondering is all. stock GTR turbo's have the same issue as gtst turbo's. ceramic exahust wheels. I think 1 bar boost is what most people are willing to do. more than that, they are no efficient,... and even at that level they could have exhaust wheel issues.

Hey nugget - how old are you?

it's good there are reliable ones.. but just open a few threads on here.. bearings, gaskets... just a new thread in here about what times a gtr will run and starts with "just bought a gtr with fresh rebuild"

well occasional drag or circuit. taken over 4000rpm instead of tooting around from home to shops or to P6 carpark for a few hours before cruising around at 3000rpm in 2nd gear before accelarating to 4000rpm then off again when you've got the "bro's" attention.

it's good to hear some better rb26 ownership stories for once. Beer Baron - that sounds like a good deal you got there. I guess in that state of tune, they are in good condition. mid 12's and 256kw would be good enough for me.

go to a dyno place and when it's on the dyno and they run it, you will see if the car is running rich. the clutch sound could be a few things. Multiple plate clutches seem to make noise when not engaged. it could also be the bearings in the clutch. it could be that the flywheel was not machined when the new clutch went in. stalling problem.. don't know.. missfire is when it misses a beat.. backfire sounds more like a pop or bang. missfire happens when there is a miss with the spark for one of many reasons. backfire happens due to excess fuel not being burnt in the combustion chamber and then exploding once in the exhaust area. so... if you have the boot in and the revs are rising, boost is up and the car sort of cuts and comes back real quick... this is missfire... if you have the boot in, then shift gears, if you have excess fuel (which happens on stock ecu with a bit more boost), you will hear a pop or bang from the exhaust... this is backfire. car not pulling to red line.. it seems normal(ish) for a stock turbo'd old r32 rb20 to do that.. gets full boost (10 psi) by about 3000rpm then pulls hard till about 4500rpm then it still revs up and pulls, but not like it did from 3000-4500rpm.. I don't think there is anything weird about that. you can fix it or make it less obvious by doing these 2 things together.. 1.) buy one of those cheap $22 boost controllers that there is a thread about on these forums. even if you don't increase the boost (which you probably shouldn't with stock intercooler), it is designed to bring on boost quicker than standard as it keeps the wastegate shut for longer. 2.) you should also disconnect your stock blow off valve, and look at the bottom of it.. you will see a tiny little hole next to the big piston of the bov. block up that little hole with a small flat head screw. make sure it seals good. put the bov back on as it was and your all good. car will build boost MUCH quicker and hold it better and therefore will feel better above 4500rpm. you gotta remember that your GTS4 is about the same weight as a GTR (1450kg or something) so the torque free 2L will feel sluggish. these 2 mods above which cost less than $50 will make a world of difference to cars responsiveness. You won't put any more stress on anything as you will not be making any more power (maybe a tiny bit) but boost response and reving it feels alot better. Mine gets around from 4500-6500 almost as quick as from 3000-4500rpm. same car but more door.

I guess I should have worded it a little better. 1.) I am not looking to buy a GTR or an RB26. 2.) there are MORE DEAD RB26 threads than dead RB20 or RB25 threads. even though they are more common and cheaper to buy and modify as can be seen by the number of r32/r33 GTST's around.

It seems that there are HEAPS of RB26's being rebuilt. Is there anyone on here that has bought a GTR and NOT rebuilt it and drives it like it should be regularly? I mean, yes the RB26 is the top of the line for nissans but it seems that the ones on this forum are all falling apart and needing rebuilds. what's the deal? do the japs really run them THAT far in to the ground before they come here? I'd love to own a GTR but it seems that there are HEAPS of lemon engines around and it's giving the GTR a MONEY PIT title. so I guess I'd like to hear from those who have bought gtr's (any model) that hasn't had to rebuild an engine due to bearings, head gasket, turbo failure, number 6 piston, oil starvation, rod out side of block etc.... also, those who have rebuilt their rb26's... how many km's have gone past since rebuild with no problems for you? as much as I hate saying it, it seems that the 26's have the worst reliabilty of the range from threads on this forum.

Welcome to 2003. I gave away what didn't sell back then.

how do you go about fitting RB26 injectors to an RB25?

warpspeed - I'll take on of your $4 kits if it works on R32's as well. that should give me $24 for the steak. I guess I can get a slightly smaller one..

factory oil pressure gauge measures in kg/cm2. what does it work out to be in PSI? what do aftermarket oil pressure gauges display the pressure in psi? what is the conversion.. if the gauge says 2 kg/cm2, what is this in Pounds Per Square Inch (PSI)? I don't want to hear that the facotry gauge is crap and doesn't measure right. I just want to know the conversion. thanks OH.. and what is normal pressure for an RB20 at warm idle and then at 3000rpm say.