TTT

hmmmm... sounds gay..

this device lights up little lights depending on wheter the factory o2 sensor sees lean or rich. so out of closed loop, it is going to see one thing.. I assume rich. so lets say he has the boot in and at about 5500rpm which is probably 1500rpm out of closed loop, and the car leans out, This device is not going to report it. mmmmmm steak.

also, does this happen when he gets to 4000rpm always? even if cruising with no positive manifold pressure (ie not on boost)? or only when he has got the boot in? does it come back to life only when he takes his foot off or what?

no they don't have coil packs.. distributor and leads. my SR must have had a split in the wiring to the afm pug and when the wire moved around, it would cut power. maybe check that out.. while idling move the afm wiring around to see if you can make it do it at idle. then, my old rally tx3 had a split in the wiring to the ECU and it would cut power completely when moved around. maybe check that wiring.

ouch... I want to know the story too.

why is this thread still going? factory o2 sensor only works when in closed loop (ie when cruising and not racing where you are concerned). this device which is worth a decent steak works of the factory o2 sensor. therefore by the powers of Chuck Norris, Vin Diesel and Mr T combined, I here by decide this device useless.

I guess the people with knowledge on this decided that telling the same thing over and over and over and over and over and possibly much more over again, is too much and don't bother when new posts liek this come up. here is a VERY good explanation of it all. sure it's on NS.com but the author is a very knowledgeable person.. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=28060&hl=stock read it and then shut the hell up about flutter and what your theory on it all is. if a mod wants to make that link above a sticky about fluttering, then that would be good. then if the mods would BAN FOR LIFE any person that mentions flutter again, that will also be good

there are a few NA turned turbo supras... they seem to hold together well. don't know about 600hp though...

posting to be kept up to date as this thread gets updated.

If you are in anywhere other than QLD, YES pod filter is ILEGAL and defectable. If you have a box made for it, then SOMETIMES cops allow it. 18's seems to be common on R33's... and if cruisyness is what you are after rather than performance, they are fine. Tyres, lots to chose from and I can see why the confusion. Just do a search and a few threads will come up... I did this a week ago. Michelin Pilots got lots of lovin and the TOYO somethings were well loved too.

Took mine out on saturday. made no difference to sound. only plus side for me is that I could see ow much dust was in it and dirt particles under it. so in went the vacuum cleaner tip. Also blocked the bov bleed hole. just take it out. it's just for sound deadening.

bump. Got mine done on saturday. 35% Greg is a good fella. I told him what I wanted out of the tints and even though the 35% cost less, he said that would suit my needs more so than the darker ones. It's not dark really. So it's not for the posers among us. I just wanted to stop the heat and therefore making the air con more efficient. that's just what I got. I do have to say this though.. it's a 2 man job. greg tints the windows, you have to entertain the poochie.. LOL.. Helpful hint: pin the dog down before he starts getting too playful... or if you are a pansy, he can lock the dog away. Thanks BLITZ for the group buy and thanks greg for job well done.

So I spent Saturday afternoon replacing the 16 year old rear speakers on the 32. for those that are thinking of doing the same, might want to use this info. 1.) remove the Seat part of the rear seats. to do this, you need to push the seat towards the back and pull up at the same time. The seats are hooked in place at the left and right corners. pushing it back allows you to pull up a little easier. 2.) remove the 2 bolts holding the BACK part of the rear seats in place. they are at the base of the unit. These can be accessed onec you pull the seat part out. Once bolts removed, you lift the Back part of the rear seat UPWARDS to clear the hooks on top. 3.) now the parcel tray sheet can be pulled up.. it is held in place by a couple of POP type plastic clips.. they come out easy.. just pull the parcel tray sheet UPWARDS. 4.) remove 4 bolts on each factory speaker. 5.) unplug the speaker wires from the boot under the speaker. now your ready for the new speakers. Lots to chose here I guess. I just wanted to be abel to hear the music over the exhaust or open window road noise without crackling so I just got a cheap pair of Sony EXPLOD ^ inch 2 way speakers. I used the factory speakers bolts (could only line up 3 of them but they are holding the speakers down tight and no vibration or anything). I also ran new speaker wire down to the deck cause I was told the factory rear speaker wires go through some amp or something.. anyway, I used the wires that came with the speakers.. (note.. the lenght was not long enough.. but I bought 4 of these speakers and used the wires from the other set as well and it's all good) ran the wire down the back of the rear seat, along the door line, under each little "SKYLINE" door panel, all the way tot he front down both sides of the car and in to the deck. I'm happy with the sound it gives.. most wouldn't be, but like I said, I just wanted to be able to hear it over open window or exhaust. the factory parcel tray will fit back over these speakers without a problem. put that back on first. then the BACK of the rear seat, then the SEAT of the rear seat. Next free week, I'll try to do the fronts.. but I think I need to make a timber surround for that.. as the factory speakers at the front seem to be 6x4 or something.. some pics of speakers.

Thought I'd bring in the weight difference to this thread. R32 GTR = 1480kg RNN14 gtir = 1200kg all the gtr fans need to take their blinkers off and realise there are other great vehicles out there. that said, I wouldn't take a GTiR over any import skyline but that's just my personal preference.

why wouldn't it?

gts4 weighs more than the sti, weighs the same as an R32 gtr, has less power and torque than both. usual mods of exhaust air filter, boost and some tuning will give it about the same power as a stock sti has. don't think that it is in anyway a gtr or a baby gtr just cause it has a "SIMILAR" driveline. that said, it beats walking.... so get one. I'm 28 and my insurance is $1500 with Just cars. My location can be seen in my profile on the left. if you are looking at an Rb25 install, consider this.. engine = $2500 GTR gearbox = $1000 (yes the stock one will break with a modified rb25 eventually) clutch, ecu, tuning, conversion cost for someone doing the work for you... etc.. in the end, you will have a car that makes the same or less power as a GTR with boost and exhaust... which would have been cheaper to buy.. but it's your money

wrx's having ceramic exhaust wheels is the first I've heard. some of the models have some form of plastic or something compressor wheel but the exhaust wheel is a metal from what I've seen.

I'll put in a little more effort as I have work to do and I don't want to do it so.... considering you have said that you had 7psi before with stock setup, that you have an R33 gtst. with the new fmic, you have better cooling for your intake air. so yes you can turn the boost up to 10 psi. but consider the following. 1 - your turbo's ceramic exhaust wheel may break due to the increase in 2 things... exhaust heat and turbine revolutions. 2 - you will also probably (most likely) start to get a misfire at around 5000rpm with increase in boost as the r33's do this. a simple fix is to reduce the gap of your spark plugs down to about 0.8 - 0.7mm 3 - you have a stock fuel pump - this should be upgraded immediately as a safety measure. 4 - to get the most out of your new cooling and extra boost, you might want to get some sort of ecu (like power fc) or piggy back (like SAFC) so that a tuner can make adjustments to your tuning to make sure you have a higher power output and also safer at the same time. don't think that 10 psi is a safe limit and that your turbo will not break here. even when stock some have been known to break. so you increase it, you increase the risk of kablaamoo for turbo. Having said that, a stock R33 turbo second hand is about $350 or youo can buy one of MANY garrett turbo's from like $1500 + good luck

You User id is so well suited to your response

he is mobile I believe. he said he's got others booked that day so that's why I decided to go there for the earliest booking. which cars gettin done Gary?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218 that's the second time I've linked that this afternoon.

also... there is no need to start the same thread again. you made this other one before.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=101705&hl= you should have just reposted in that.

take a picture of your engine bay. if you have an RB25, then the bov should be sitting on the pipe that goes "across" your engine. the RB26 has the sotck bovs (there are 2) on the pipe for the intercooler, and they are behind the front bar. so you seem to be mixing the 2 up. as for what mods to do and when... the following thread is a good read for you.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218

aren't the hoses really long in that passenger side where GTST stock intercoolers are? I assume that it where you meant.

sorry for your loss.. of testicles..