TTT

1.) when you first start the car, just let it idle for a minute at max. then when you drive, don't rev it much, just dawdle along for the first 10 minutes. even if the temp guage is at halfway, the oil in the engine and gearbox and diffs are still cold. 10 minutes of sedate driving is enough cause you change gears and stop and move and stuff. 2.) letting your turbo cool down is not an issue that you should be too worried about. unless you are redlining down your street and come skidding to a hault at your house, there is no real need to let the car sit idling for more than 20-30 seconds. if you've been giving it a good fanging, then just take it easy in the last 2 minutes of your drive home or work or where ever it is you are going to. when you stop, by the time you take seatbelt off, collect your shit out of the car, and get out, it's been about 20-30 seconds, then turn the car off. the bov turned the other way. that doesn't make sense. just put it the way it's supposed to be. It actaully makes the car run better that way. don't worry about damage to turbo blah blah blah.. with it connected and working properly, the car idles and runs better.

they are called "GTS4 sedan"

news flash. it's a circle that makes the car change directions. and it has a factory airbag. why bother changing it?

ssssssssssss quaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhkkkkk hahahahahahahaha

yep.. definitely the nicer interior..

Matt you big homo. I recently got a r32 gts4 4 door as well. not modifed as yet though. good to see you got your senses back and came back to an R32.

yo spider man.. stop your bitching.

don't know if I'll bother with balancing the crank. I'm just gonna follow Joels guide. it's not like I'm gonna be reving the tits of this thing is it? on the street I'd be surprised if I get the rb20 over 5000rpm regularly let alone an RB30.

you want reliability... get a MRT injector rail. that way it will prevent your piston (ummmm 1) from leaning out.

yep.. new rings, bearings, and new gaskets. all parts will be OEM nissan/holden bits. I just want it to be reliable. so I will replace parts that are required. nothing forged though. I don't think it will be required for my needs. I should also add oil cooler kit to my list of NEW things to buy.

swap your quiet crappy turbo for my superior factory ball bearing LOUD spooling unit. I won't even charge ya cause I'm in a good mood today.

??? faulty oxygen sensor? dirty Air flow meter?

the only new part to this engine build will be bearings, turbo, sump adapter, idler pulleys and timing belt and ECU bottom end will be stock. just checked and tested. and I will use the pistons it came with. head will be stock with second hand 25det springs to be sure. oil pump, second hand. injectors I will get GTR ones. B U D G E T We'll see how long the gts4 box holds up. and I will only have it tuned with 14-17psi... don't want to really go over 1bar. what ever power that yields is cool with me.

I blocked off the bleed hole on my last skyline. but like you said, it's not a smooth transition between on and off throttle or part throttle. so I'm leaving this one as is. I'll have to put up with it for a while as is. once I settle in to QLD, and everything is back to normal and bank account is a little beefier, THEN, I can build the RB30 that I want and stick the gt30 to the side of it. I hate having it all planned out and no funds to make it happen. NOTE TO MEN: Don't pay for your own wedding. oh and don't have your UNINSURED car stolen. oh oh.. and don't do all of the above when paying a MORTGAGE. Lets hope 2006 brings better luck than 2005.

yeh stock bov.. and yes it makes a difference when on part throttle when the bov is slightly open but it doesn't make any difference to mine with either bov when foot to the floor. same induction noise. I guess I'll wait till the future build up

this question was answered above. go to the section of these forums called FOR SALE (Business Traders). there is a guy called BATMBL that sells the front part of the exhaust from the cat to the turbo that you want to replace. buyit from him.

if it's a hot looking bird, I take the 6000rpm get away option. if the wife finds out, there'll be more than the car to lose. :lol: coupes blow. get a 4 door. B)

LOL.... u know it!!

I believe the second line of my post says "even with the stock air box in" Cubes - Thanks for that. I guess it could be that.. Since you've seen both and have compared them. cheers

yeh it's probably your atmo bov. try fitting the stock one back on. yes it has nothing to do with your thread, but your thread has nothing to do with skylines or cars for that matter.

YOU CAN NOT. I'M TELLING MUM.... :cry:

how wide are the rims? 16 x ? and stud pattern and offset? 114.3 ? 40mm? cheers

I've had skyline and vr4. bov = same... even part number. the bolting to attach may be slightly different never seen the evo ones. might be simpler to just get a gfb plumback ones second hand or something.

What is it about the stock turbo's on RB20/25's that make the induction sound so loud. even with the stock air box in.? I'm sick of it already. Is it something with the design in the wheels or maybe the compressor inlet? my SR was never this loud. neither was the 4G63. and no, there is no leaks or gasket issues. it's just the standard skyline turbo sucking sound.

HICAS is nissans 4 wheel steering. if the light is on, there is a problem. don't have the manual if it is cutting out while you are accelerating, it is a misfire of some sort. most common causes seems to be : Too large a gap in spark plugs, try to gap them down to 0.8 if they are larger, or coil packs are old and are arcing out. try taping them really tight with electrical tape as a temporary measure.