TTT

take the 2 bolts that hold the bov in place off. there may be a blanking plate under it. or they may have blocked the return line.. take the bov off and see if you can push the piston in by hand. you should be able to with a little bit of force. edit - as for the link ecu, I though that they came with a display screen as well.

StageZilla post Yesterday, 08:48 PM Post #96 JUN RB27DET - HKS T04Z Posts: 321 Joined: 29th May, 2005 From: Perth WA Member No.: 20,455 Car(s): GTR wagon, VS Berlina JOP - I say well done to you. you've accomplished alot in the 31 years you've been around. You'll obviously go ahead with engine, gearbox and driveline mods soon enough, when you have the right funding. all the best to you mate.. let the people judge all they want. after all, they are just a bunch of people behind monitors connected to the interweb who feel like they need to let others know of their hatred for gtr badges on non gtr's.

toshi on these forums. drop him a pm

sniff sniff.. can anyone else smell that?

sweet jebus.. what happened during the build? brett send me details...

Hi performance imports no 60. page 10 there is an add for an adapter for the rb26 plenum to fit rb25. clearly states that it is now available from autobarn.

also, mines is an R34 gtr... the R34 and R32 gtr air boxes are not the same. still sotck air box with your own extra ducting to it would be better then pods in the nude.

you have one there as well.

would you consider $8K plus a Auto Barina.. that's definitely a cheap car and you get cash.. cheap on fuel, dual air bags..

you have mail

what's so funny buddah? someone answer my questions damn it..

Item: D2 Coilovers for S15 Silvia Location:Sydney Item Condition:Excellent - practically new Reason for Selling:Car is being sold as stock Price and Payment Conditions:$1200 Extra Info:Description Almost brand new D2 height-adjustable coilovers with pillow-ball uppder mounts for S15 Silvia/200SX. Only done 2000km. Selling these as I am selling my S15. They cost over $1600 brand new. I am now selling them for $1200. Features (taken from D2 website) * All shock absorbers are gas and oil separately (30% Nitrogen 70% Oil) monotube design that can reduce the oil leaking defects. * The dampers can be disassembled, and rebuilt to meet all requirements. The shock absorber also includes high-performance front pillow ball top mount (Mcpherson Type) to complete this unique products. * Our shock absorbers are made by lightweight 6061 aluminum alloy material and have done with T6 for increasing hardness, and forming by forging and anodized to avoid losing color. * All models can be lowered to 120mm than the original height when shock absorber is fitted. * Linear rate spring with chrome silicon metal alloy springs, available from 3.5-22 kg/mm. * Top turning adjuster to adjust damper and rebound up to 36 ways. All shock absorbers are adjustable for both compression and rebound. * Teflon thread coated to prevent rust and corrosion. * Our shock absorbers are qualified by "World ARTC" for million circles with no liquid leakage, qualified as race proven equipments. Contact Details: [email protected] pics

yeh that's me in the first pic. the chick with the fat ass :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

very decent results with your car there mate. I have a question and I guess it is more of a technical question though.. with all the talk of skyline turbo's and ceramic wheels dieing over x psi and so forth.. your's at 14psi and still going for god knows how long and according to the mag, more than 100 1/4 passes in that form.. common theory of the ceramic exhaust wheel breakage is too much boost which results in too high exhaust temps which break them. so with the use of NO2, what effect if any does it have on the exhaust temps? is this the reason for your turbo still living today? also, is your NO2 disconnected in someway when outside WSID? what sort of boost is dialed in during street driving? thanks and all the best.

you say you don't have the dollars for a bigger better turbo yet you say you want to hi-flow your current one. GCG hi-hiflow R33 turbo's to make them something liek 450HP units with steel wheels and ball bearing center and it costs something like $2200 I'm pretty sure that a GT30 from garrett is not that far off and a much better option for more power in the future.

walked past the Lanecove pothole yesterday and all the cop cars around. one was a 93 saab convertible in that ugly green colour with all the Police decals all over it. like this one.. http://www.drive.com.au/used/search/detail...=1&mode=Reviews

it just sounds like you had a AFM cut. same as when you turn the boost up enough that the AFM can't measure the air coming in fast enough and you get a engine cut sort of thing. where the accelaration stops instantly for a split second and the whole car jerks. that's what probably happened. I doubt you broke anything.

the car will run a little rougher than with the stock bov and could stall occasionally. Yes you will get that sound. Here's a recommendation. look in parts for sale section and buy a stock bov for $20 save you a lot of hassles.

Spotted MAR55S doing laps down burwood road at lunchtime. Spotted BU5TER in Drummoyne.. down the road from Powerplay imports a few weeks back. Did this car get sold to a sydney sider?

all skyline GTST's and most GTR's have a ceramic exhaust wheel on the turbo. and they are ball bearing centres. the turbo on GTST's is often refered to as T3 (not T30). this simply means that bolt pattern on the manifold. however, the specs of the turbo (as in the size of the wheels and what power it can produce etc) is about the same as a T28. T28 turbo is a turbo found on S14 and S15 Silvia/200sx. the manifold bolt pattern is a T2 series and that is why the turbo is known as a T28

having no bov on a car that came with a plumback bov like all R32 and R33's, is like having an atmo venting bov. your car still runs rich for a split second during gear changes or when you back off the throttle. to fix it, fit a stock bov and plumb it back like it should be and the mixtures will be fine and no more backfire.

I think you should consider Insurance in to that $15K you have to spend.. now you have $12-$13K to spend. so I think the best option here is an R31.

My r32 with something like 155rwkw felts ok till I got in an RB25 powered car. then mine just felt gutless. no torque feels so crap. but then again, some people like how the RB20 gets up and going on higher revs. I'd rather torque and no high revs. That's why it kills me to read all these people with 30dets already up and running.

I have always said R32 and that 33's are whales and so forth. but with todays pricing, and REALLY comparing what each cars gives you (not including looks) the R33 wins hands down. the only thing the R32 has over the R33 is the weight advantage (I think 70kg lighter) and looks which is subjective. R33 has the better engine, better gearbox and I think slightly larger brake disks and calipers.. engine and gearbox alone is worth getting the R33 to the R32 for me. and I guess that will mean I will be a whale owner in 2006. if the R32 was so much cheaper that you could have an R33 engine and gearbox put in and drive away at a total cost (including car purchase) of $15K then I'd do that. but the 89 gtst's are just crap. and 93 gtst's are same price if not more than Series 1 R33's. anyway, you really need to make the choice on which you like the look of better. both are good cars.

yes