TTT

enough to be annoying. and the car will also idle crap and possibly stall. you will have incorrect a:f mixture. don't worry about the kw you lose. just replace the hose. it'll cost you 5 minutes and about $2

oh man where to start. 1.) DO NOT buy from a dealer. 2.) you get $1K cash in hand per week. save for about 6 months and you'll have enough cash to buy a car outright. 3.) do not get finance. 4.) DO NOT buy from a dealer. 5.) get your cash together and buy a car from a forum member on here. 6.) DO NOT buy from a dealer.

I think XFORCE make them seperate. search for that.

1.) they have a fairly large turbo for the 2L in standard form and so are a little laggy. 2.) the ST185 gearbox and diff combo have too tall ratios in first gear. if you can, get your hands on the TOUGH ST205 gearbox and rear diff. people on TOYMODS have found that this has improved their 0-100 by just over 1 second with these mods only. TT

does anyone even use the search function? I request the mods to make the search button half a page in size.

SHPFFB makes that noise. super happy pixy fairy funslide bov.

here's an idea. get back on a dyno and see what the a:f ratios are like now. $60 it will cost you. why risk it? as said, if they played with the base timing, it will have a big effect. I feel for your engine (and pocket) if you can actually HEAR the pinging. think about it.... you are hearing a sound which is inside your engine.. you are hearing it over traffic, bonnet, sound deadner, exhaust, turbo... all those noises and you can still hear it rattling away like a mofo.. so think about the actual damage you are causing.

I'm sure Fats was/is using the stock RB20 gearbox behind his rb26 with XR6T turbo making somewhere around 300rwkw. and rumour has it (and so does the video I have) that Fatz likes to drive his car a little harder than daily driving. he is using a stock GTR clutch plate. I would use the stock gearbox till you break it at least. now on to the engine.. for $7K, you could build a RB30det. but if you prefer to pay for the work tobe done, then go with this RB26 quote. and try to get the $7K drive away price in writing BEFORE work starts and any cash is handed over.

rb24, then SR20, then RB20... make up your mind... or was this a BRAGGING thread from the beggining and I didn't catch on.. if it is, then you may have the money, But I still hanve a bigger WANG..

the whole 7mgte and gasket blowing thing is as stupid as skylines and ceramic exhaust wheels. HKS metal head gasket and you won't have any problems. they come standard with a fairly large turbo, which when hi-flowed gets close to 260rwkw with supporting mods. also that car I posted doesn't have 46K original kms. that is on the new speedo.. it says original km's unknown.. I just think that THAT particular car is amasingly clean, and it is also the 1jz model so it is definitely a great car. not sure on weight.

Good stuff mate.. I'd say build a tough RB31DET S13.5 is an S13 silvia with an S15 front end

you removed the plumback right?

I have a 3.5 inch cat back but it needs a new muffler. I'll sell it to you for $200

I think they're nice.. here's a good example.. http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=3082 show me something better for $13K

I had one for a while. they go ok but I just never got attached to it. Mine was more trouble then it was worth. FMIC Fuel pump ecu TD05-16G 18psi boost will see it kill many things. good luck

Reason for Selling: No car to put them on. Contact Details: PM or reply to this post. Brand = Not sure size = 16x7 offset = 35 stud pattern = 5 stud PCD = 114.3 & 100 (I think.. it is multi stud drilled - see pics) tyres = Yokohama A539 rear = 225/55/16 front = 205/55/16 location = Sydney price = $650 pics below:

HEY ROY!!!!!

GTR, zip tie's to restrict boost. *shakes head*

the only time the factory bov MIGHT have a problem is being able to "VENT". say you have are making a shit load of power using a large turbo which is gulping in masses of air... then during gearchanges, the sotck bov might not be able to "VENT" enough air and you will have reversion. but the bov doesn't leak or open. as stated above... it has a spring pressure, PLUS, even boost pressure on both sides of the diaphram.

same dyno? same dyno settings? same day? same temp? same timing? same A:F ratio's? have the 2 cars raced 1/4 mile? what times?

you're better off taking it that high while on the dyno so that the tuner can make sure that there is enough fuel capacity till the rev limiter. cause if you miss shift or something while racing say, then you might hit the limiter and maybe not have the tuning there and cause some major damage.. at least on a dyno, he can see it getting there and back off if required. so it IS worth it. and it seems that your dyno run was done in 3rd gear right?

maybe look at an oil cooler for your gearbox before changing the gearset..

well you should have asked for his name, badge number and stationhe works at. then you should have asked him if he actually knows what kind of sound a wastgate actually makes. the sound is from not having a bov and air going back through the turbo. not your wastegate. and if his XR6T is making the same noise, then how can he hassle you for it? I'm surprised he didn't defect you for HAVING a pod filter in the first place. but yes, it should be secured to the body of the car. radiator shroud should be there so that the fan can do it's job and actually create a vacuum to suck the hot air out the radiator. it just seems like you came across a prick.

try running it with no boost controler and see what boost you get. just stick the hose from the wastegate straight in to the turbo with no controller. that way the wastegate spring should control the boost pressure. should be about 8-10 psi I guess.. then install the boost controller as suggested.

perhaps try replacing the gaskets around the turbo/manifold/exhaust. it's comomn for these to go and cause a squeel on boost.