TTT

Apexi is a REAL hybrid.. as in a hybrid of Tube and fin and bar and plate. they also have a wierd FIN design on the surface which supposedly directs air between the fins and through the cooler. good intercoolers. but this is in no way similar to a HYBRID branded intercooler. Apexi has just used a core that uses bar and plate and tube and fin desing.. so it is a hybrid of the 2 types. khairul - check the "for sale business/traders" forum on here.. JUST JAP have kits for like $650 or something. they work great.

either take it to an exhaust place and have it welded on or have an adapter made up.

your mate is both right and wrong. right = it's because your bov is to tight. wrong = sound is caused by air going back through the turbo. wastegates don't make that kind of noise. is it bad for your turbo? strong point from both sides of that story.. my view is, there is a factory bov, it idles better with it there, car behaves better. loosen your bov while the cars is idling until it almost stalls. then tighten it by one whole turn. drive it and see ow you go. if it stalls, tighten some more.

I guess he means a 120 degree bend ala gibson motor sports R31. or maybe he meant 180 as in from throttle over engine, 90 degree turn along engine, 90 degre turn over radiator fan = 180 degrees. go for the gibson style mate. or why not make the pipe from turbo to intercooler go over the radiator fan instead.. the air is already hot., then through the cooler and up through the factory cooler pipes path.

oh man.. you silly, silly man. it is not a direct bolt up in any way. it will require machining and a whole shit load of work. what ever you bought it for, expect to pay tripple that to get it fitted and working. and then I'm not even sure if you'll get ANY performance gains.. maybe upper revs.. at least you've saved 30 cm of intercooler piping..

stock turbo + 14psi = $2200 or at least that's what I think a rebuild a GCG costs these days

why not just use the stock one?

I had exactly the same problem. my solution was to unplug it. there are 2 plugs for the hicas. they are under the parcel tray. when you disconnect one, the light stays on.. you don't want that one. disconnect the other one and HICAS no longer works and you don't go wobbling all over the place. people told me over and over that this is not right and it won't stay in one place and shit. but it did. if you go in the boot, if I recall, the plugs are closer to the right speaker..

hahahaha moaner and hotdogs.. hahahahahaha oh man..

Cerci - People love to say "mate this has been covered many times so do a search" and then you do and you get a whole bunch of posts with people in there saying "mate this has been covered many times so do a search. so I won't. even though you should. Boosted RB25det and misfire over 5000rpm go hand in hand. However, there are a couple of reasons that could be causing it. I'll list the common ones. 1.) spark plug gap is stock at 1.1mm and the increase in boost is blowing out the spark. 2.) spark plugs are old and possibly damaged with a hair line crack. 3.) running rich and retarded 4.) faulty coils. 5.) afm meter cut rule them out one by one and you will solve it. 1.) gap them to 0.8mm (already done it) 2.) replace them with new NGK copper plugs at right gap and right range.. or maybe one range cooler. 3.) need some sort of fuel trim adjustability.. SAFC is the cheapest option.. POWER FC is the best option. 4.) cheap way to possibly help issue is to tape them up.. might help.. see here for details. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...2356&hl=misfire 5.) not sure how to test this.. but I think the AFM cut is much more harsh then a missfire so I think you'd be able to tell if you get a cut rom the AFM.. it almost dies for a moment rather than hesitate like the misfire does. now hopefully when someone goes, I've got a misfire/flat spot at 5000rpm region, someone else will go, do a search mate, they will and find this.

get a twin cam corolla. 3 years later get a turbo skyline

one thing to remember. the VL turbo's turbo has the wastegate flap attached to the dump pipe. where as the skylines have it attached to the exhaust housing of the turbo. you will need to mod this when using it on a skyline

if you don't already have a boost controller, then 5 on the factory gauge is about what you should be seeing. 5 on that gauge is about 9 psi I think. which is what the R33's have on the second stage. they are 7 psi until a certain revs or something. Fuel pump upgrade would a Walbro pump. 255L/min... supposed to supply enough fuel for up to about 500hp or something. CAI = Cold air intake. you can make one up for yourself using that flexy air con ducting tube. or you can use plumbers Drain pipes.. or I'm sure some shops will sell you an extremely expensive one that pretty much does the same thing. basically something that can direct air from where your factory side mounted intercooler was, up to your pod filter.

stock R32 GTST or R33 GTST or R34 GTT bovs are all the same. you can use any of those and they will bolt on to the spot where you're is blanked off. GTR bov's will require some fabrication to fit to the RB20 motor. Greddy RS or any aftermarket ones are just a big waste of money for where you are. stock gtst/gtt bovs will cost about $50 max. just put up a wanted post in the WANT TO BUY forum here.

http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=96988

1.) the stock boost gauge is not in PSI. it is in Inches of Mercury. 7 on that gauge is = about 15 psi. 2.) atmo venting bovs will cause your car to stall as it makes the car run rich in between gears or when ever it vents. basically choking your car with fuel. an R33 with full exhaust, pod, FMIC, POWER FC tuned to run say about 10-12 psi will probably get 200rwkw.. give or take 10rwkw depending on tune, dyno, your fuel pump and ability to flow enough fuel. if you have stock clutch, it will now start to slip. if you have stock fuel pump, you are playing with fire. if you have no cold air intake and shield or box for the pod, you're being silly if you have standard plugs gapped at the standard 1.1mm, you will now have missfire problems and will require new plugs with a gap of about 0.8 or 0.7 You are based in Sydney so there are many many places to go to have it all done. depends on how many monies you have. CRD, Unigroup, just get a car mag and pick a tuner. with 200 odd rwkw, maybe you should also look at handling mods. $2K gets you a whiteline WORKS kit. then maybe you should get good brake pads. possibly some decent quality tyres. there you go. money all gone

the HKS ones have HKS written on the little fins on the front of the bov. where the air comes out of, if you look in there, there is a small device with fins on it. that should have HKS something or other written on it

yes. having no bov will cause the car to stall on occasion like having an atmo bov. it still causes the ECU to over fuel and run rich temporarily and cause the stalling.

of course I know what's going on.. just look at my signature

A:F ratio = Air:Fuel 11:1 = 11 parts air : 1 part fuel. 11.5:1 is a safe setting. when your car runs lean, it has HIGHER parts of AIR per part of FUEL. so if you see things like 12.5:1 or higher, then you could end up in trouble. I wouldn't like to see anything leaner than 12:1 that's why I said 11.5:1 that you currently have is a good safe reliable setting.

starts at 12.5 and goes down to 11.5. looks good keep it around 11.5:1 as it is

stop farting while in car.

apart from my regular reply of "build and RB30det" I'll try to help. first of all, while you have the stock turbo and no boost controller, you won't get anything more than say 150rwkw if you're lucky. you have boost controller listed in stage 3 so until that day comes, you will have the power above. stock turbo + fmic+exhaust+filter+boost controller pushed to about 14psi will see you at about 150-160rwkw. + power fc and you might see close to 170 if you're lucky and your stock turbo stays in one piece. you have a good list of parts, but might need to re-arrange when you want to get them. example. an RB20 with FMIC but no boost controller drives worse than with the side intercooler. it feels even more laggier than it already is. iridium spark plugs are a waste of money unless you got them for free. even then, copper is a better conducter of electricty than iridium so a $4 copper NGK plug of the correct heat range and correct gap will out perform any platnum or iridum plug. maybe not last as long. but still better. stainless steel pipe to turbo = waste of money. looks shiney, makes SFA difference. the changes I'd make.. 1.)exhaust and panel filter for stock air box. 2.)FMIC and boost controller 3.)fuel pump After that, I'd go one of 2 ways. 1.) PFC and tune then 2.) turbo, manifold (if you really think this is required), injectors, possibly AFM, and tune it all in one hit. or the PFC and the rest in one hit.

what a spin out.. my thoughts were pretty much in line with yours Discopotato... apart from the GR option. I went a little further and picked Gary's (SydneyKid) brain for his thoughts on it.. this was a while back but here are the PM's... So there you go. maybe it'll help you out a little. consider the costs of gearbox and head and ECU etc.. and the fact that a 1992 r32 gtst is now more expensive than most 1993 R33 gtst

HKS SSQV (Yes 2 s's) Greddy Type S or you can go buy a cheaper MONZA copy of the HKS one. they all make the squeek noise you're after.