TTT

it seems the "search this thread" option is no longer available. however, SYDNEYKID had stated that GTR valve springs are not a direct replacement for RB25de heads. it was due to the lifter in 25 heads not being the same setup as the 26 head. he mentioned that in his first RB30 build when he used the 25de head from an R32, he changed the valve springs and used 25det valve springs. maybe he'll see this post and confirm or correct me.

My S14 had a similar problem. Mine turned out to be the wiring to the AFM. basically, the AFM plug, the cable that goes off it, when my car is idling fine, if I touched the wire or moved it in a certain direction, the car would stall. I did the cheap option and found a position where it wouldn't stall and taped it to there. it's not the bov or it would happen when you are COMMING to a stop after venting the bov. and you have that HKS doobie anyway.. start your car, open bonnet, move the AFM around, move the cable from the AFM plug around.. see if any of that makes your car stall. good luck

you sure that is the correct spelling of his name?

ball bearing. R31's with the red top rb20det has a the non ball bearing turbo

it's been mentioned in this thread that the GTRvalve springs can't easily be adapted for the rb25de head. it would be easier to use the 25det valve springs. it also been said that with GOOD tuning and supporting mods, keeping boost low, with correct sized turbo, 300rwkw can be achieved using stock na pistons and rods and stock gaskets. but constant high revs will destroy the stock rods. not sure about GTR cams in teh 25de head either. standard manifold is ok. turbo selection..... I don't know.. not up to scratch with my turbo knowledge in terms of what power the turbo's you've said will produce and at what boost levels. I think you'd need to be a bit more specific with things like exhaust wheel size and so forth.

anything is better than turbofart. why not try the ones on this forum that there is a thread about.. $22 boost controller or something.. it's supposedly better than all the others around... (bleed type anyway) and many skyline owners have already tested and swear by it

only reduce the spark plug gap if you are having a missfire issue. otherwise, it's better to have the larger gap.

all i can tell you is that my one made 154rwkw at 11psi using an ARC side mount, turbo xs bleed valve, turbo back exhaust and trust panel filter. stock injectors pump and ecu

I personally think that what you're requesting is stupid. quick option - NOS the only way to spin up a big turbo quickly is to have more exhaust gases. to do this, apart from Nitrous, you need more capacity. Sure cams will help and timing and tuning and the hey and the hoe.. but using a 3L bottom end as discussed in the 137 page thread up there (points to the top of the forum), you will be able to spin up this turbo with ease. but you don't seem to have a proper goal in mind. you jump from 300rwkw to beating an RB25 with the same turbo to having no lag.. so there's probably no helping ya..

damaged timing belt = valves hitting pistons at who knows what revs he was doing at the time. = bent or broken valves and possibly more ... but as stated the pistons survived.

I'd say speak with BATMBL on these forums for all your dump, front pipe and CAT needs. good price and quality. the just jap non branded hybrid style intercooler kits are a bargain and will work perfectly on your R33. I doubt very much that any $2000 intercooler kit from ARC or hks or what ever will give you ANY different outcome than the non branded kit. for the $1000 you save on that, you could get a POWER FC to make full use of your car's new found breathing ability.

take the wastegate line off the turbo's and go for a spin... see what boost gauge gets to before things blow up. that is the max amount.

just get a kit from JUST JAP in the for sale business traders section on this forum. hybrid style 600 x 300 x 75 intercooler and piping. 600 odd dollars. works just fine. if you don't believe that these are any good or people who have spend double that to buy some brand name tells you they're crap, have a search on performance forums for these hybrid coolers. there are a few 9 second cars using these.. Rigoli's 4wd accent evo for one.

wheels 24 - lets say you're driving along in the wet and come to a street that you need to turn left in to and it is a steep hill. a rwd rb20 powered car with no boost in the wet.. how you going to get up that hill at anything above datsun 120y speeds? what do the rb20's have? 8.5:1 compression? with no boost, in 2nd gear (I'd assume) how can you possibly have te car moving? it would feel crap to drive around like that. full bost at 4000rpm... what exactly is full boost? what psi or some other form of pressure measurement is your car tuned for? and around 2500-3000rpm, do you see any sort of positive pressure? or do you always have to shift back to first gear for situations like I've described above?

that's a rather large turbo for an RB20 isn't it? I doubt you'd get stock turbo like performance in terms of lag. and I always thought the HKS adjustable wastegate rods were set to 1 bar (14.5psi) at the loosest setting.

cubes is right. see his stats. now the S14 is lighter than the R32. and my S14 was producing 175rwkw with cooler, exhaust, pod 14.5psi and SAFC. and is lighter than the r32. so again, THAT is why your R32 with a fmic, pod, exhaust and 12 psi will not pull away from an S14 with exhaust pod and bit more boost. it's the R31, R32 and R33 turbo's that have ceramic exhaust wheels. my S14 was the original shape before the upgraded headlights. if I had a powerfc, it would have pulled about 180-185rwkw on 15-16 psi boost. I'd like to see a stock turbo R32 GTST do that with ecu, fmic and the rest of the supporting mods. anyway, as people have said, increase the boost and timing if you can, while on a dyno with a A:F ratio reader up it's tail pipe to make sure it is all safe. most boost controller (electronic or bleed valve) will make the boost come on a little earlier.. however, there are some that work better than others. if you are on a budget, maybe try the one that people are raving about in a thread called "$22 boost controller" or something simimlar. I think the price is about $45 now but stacks of people are extremely pleased with it and thye rave on about how it brings on boost so much earlier. good luck..

VDO boost gauge will set you back about $45 it's black it has white numbers it lights up regular yellowish/white it's very accurate like all VDO equipment.

just try an aftermarket plumback one... if it doesn't flutter at high revs, then you're done. if it does, then the bov return line would be the restriction.

if you already have exhaust done. get a boost controller and boost gauge. get to a dyno place and have them increase the boost to say 12 psi while it's on the dyno. then you can see if the car is running rich or lean and know that the increased boost is at a safe limit. and you're surprised that you couldn't pull away from an S14? why? they are lighter and have more torque.

Can't really answer your questions on specs, however I can tell you that any GT30BB turbo will be laggy on an RB20. there is a thread somewhere on how these turbo's are on the rb25 which is larger in capacity and compression.. DISCOPOTATO03 on these forums will be able to tell you what the specs are with that number

1.) you can take the compressor cover of the turbo off and drill and tap a nipple to where the rb20 one is. or do like the R33's and drill and tap a niple in to the intercooler pipe that goes from turbo to intercooler. 2.) you need to buy the first piece of intercooler pipe from an R33 (commonly refered to as the elbow) or you need to drill the holes out on the rb20 one to match the rb25 turbo. be careful. they need to be drilled out all the way to the edge without breaking through.

well if it can vent at 5 psi but not at the higher 12, then 2 things can be the issue. 1.) the bov can't flow enough. 2.) the return line is too small and can't flow enough to the inlet. either of those will cause enough of a blockage to cause a fluttering. Lordsnipe - you're right.. just thought about it now.. when I got an RB25 turbo on my RB20, on the same boost (11psi) it was making a decent amount more power than with stock turbo. I just can't think of the theory behind it. if it's 12 psi in the motor, then how does that effect flow wether it's from gt30 or T25... brain broken..

do you get flutter only at 12psi and a normal stock bov sound at say 5psi? I have another question. is 12 psi 12 psi? I mean, 12 psi produced by the stock turbo = the same amount of air as 12 psi from the GT30? My brain won't bend to work it out today....

Evo Turbo's up to EVO III are TD05 16G. the newer EVO's have been using something else. I had a 16G on my VR4. it was pretty responsive on the 2L.. I'd say 1bar boost by 3500rpm in somparison to the stock turbo (which is a td05 14B) makes 1Bar by 2900 I think

give me a lift on your way there.. with our help, we will all be there for dinner at whoever's house it is we're at.