TTT

hahahaha damn.. didn't think of that..

pretty expensive. I bought 4L for $100 from CRD in sydney. not sure who else sells it. manual box oil cooler is not common. on auto skylines, the gearbox fluid is pumped through the bottom of the radiator..... I don't know if a gearbox oil cooler will stop the crunching.. I'd try the good oil first, and if it still does it, might be time to refresh the box.

I keep hearing 80% duty cycle as a safety rule of thumb.

why don't you want to use it? just curious. you already have one on the car stock right? not like you have to go spend more money. so why not use it?

you can mod the stock computer on R33's. TOSHI from these forums does it for a reasonable price.. have a chat with him

as stated. gtst = 16x6.5 gtr = 16x8 GTR wheels are also made of a different material than the GTST ones. they are lighter and are a gun metal greyish colour. a set of R32 GTR wheels will cost you about $1000 with shit or no tyres. a set of GTST wheels with decent tyres would cost you about $300. a can of gun metal grey paint will cost you $10 go son..

I had the 2nd gear crunch on my R32 gtst. redline gearbox oil fixed my issue. Redline Lightweight Shock proof. NOTE: it takes a few km's of driving before it works it's magic. say about 50kms.

thank jebus.. so much better. I suggest everyone try this skin... although it kinda reminds me of nissansilvia.com but it's easier on the eyes.. and it's white instead of blue.

alot of the Miata (mx5) owners in the USA do this using a BOSCH bov or a bov from a 4G63 (mitsubishi engine) when they turbo charge their MX5's. you can buy a one way valve from hardware places. they look a bit odd but do the trick.

if it is making a noise on gear change, then I'd say it is a one way valve of some sort. basically allowing you to vent the stock bov to atmo. as the stock bov stays open on idle (under vacuum conditions) if it is not plumbed back, it will suck air in through it causing the car to stall or at least not idle properly. a one way valve will stop air being sucked in during idle and therefore allow you to have it venting to atmo making a fully sick noise bro. is you are getting flutter in between gears, then as stated above, it will just be something that is used to block the bov off.

I'll make it a little easier for you.

it's when you win a wild pig

NOPE.. it wasn't mentioned anywhere in the post, and I wasn't sure.. as the R32 GTS4's are 4wd and turbo... but I couldn't remember for the R33's. thanks.

this is NON turbo right?

well there is a whole thread above called R33 RB30det conversion. but the jist of it.. you get a NON turbo VL commodore rb30DE bottom end for $100. spend some dosh (lets say $3K) to put in forged pistons and rods. stick your RB26det head on it. get a 4wd sump adapter from one of the guys on this forum. once sorted, you basically have a rb26dett with a 3L bottom end. when you have a day or 2 spare, have a read through the 108 pages of that thread above.. it is pretty much all interesting..

I keep comapring all results to Sydney kids original rb30 engine. 475hp on engine dyno, using old t04e and standard everything on 1 bar boost.. anyway.. great results.

I asked this question before. is the R32 GTS4 gearbox same strength as an RB26 gearbox and got the answer of no. the reason I asked was this. I've been told the Rb26 gears are pretty much on par with the RB25 gears. rb25 gearbox costs about $2K rb26 gearbox costs about $1K GTS4 gearboxes are even less than the GTR ones. so cut the transfer case and weld it all shut as required and for under $1K you have a really good box.. but it turns out that the GTS4 gearbox in the R32's are pretty much the same as the gtst gearbox in the R32.. in terms of strength anyway.

yeh man.. 297 rwkw... real dissapointing.. hahahaha although.... when I go through this whole thing, I was hoping to get that sort of figure on 1 bar boost. can you do a quick summary of your supporting mods on here please?

the flanges on the manifold will need an adapter. also, I'm not sure if the compressor housing and wastegate sit in the right spot.. you may need to rotate the compressor housing to suit.. I am sure about the manifold adapter but not sure about the second part.. you will have to see someone that has done it or cross that bridge when you get to it.

a few people have used these turbo's as a poor mans version of N1's. also, I believe that UAS's "boostedZED" uses or used these on his 300zx. which is a 3L engine and he was producing some decent figures with very little lag. But since the 300zx uses T25's as standard, the S15 turbo's which are also T2 based turbo's were much easier to adapt then to an RB engine. One more thing to note.. NOT all S15 turbo's are Ball Bearing. and no, not all JAP S15's have BB turbo's. here is how you can tell. All that matters is the garret number, everything else just confuses matters 466541 = ball bearing 466543 = bush bearing for the second bit of the number -001 = S14 turbo (no splitter between wastegate and turbine exit) -002 = S15 turbo (splitter between wastegate and turbine exit) These numbers should be stamped on to a little plate which is on the housing between the compressor and exhaust side of the turbo. Cheers

CC - pull it apart, clean it all with degreaser and a rag.. then spray everything with WD40 and put it back together.. don't pipe the wd40 off.

take a newspaper roll it up. go to friends house. smack him across the head for telling you such things

yeh.. both made by mitsubishi

*cough* RB30 bottom end *cough*

CC - if it is making the prrrrrrrrrr sound the RB20 non bov engine makes, then it is not venting. sheepdog bov should make a single pssssshhhhhhhh sound. when you have no bov, you also get some back fire. or if your bov is too tight, you will get some back fire too. loosen it up mate.. just a question. did you put the vacuum line back on to the top of it?