TTT

jazza - I'm not talking about your opinions. of course state your opinions. but you don't know facts.. and your last post proves it. 1.) R32 gtst "IS" quicker down the 1/4 than a R33 GTST. yes it makes less power but it is lighter and it is quicker. 2.) you say I say, what for of racing starts on the run? 3.) in a previous post you didn't even know that the WRX's ran higher boost of 1 bar'ish.. 4.) in a nother previous post you stated that the rb20 turbo was the strongest of all the skyline turbo's and therefore could be boosted more. we all know that a skyline will get from say 140 - 180 quicker than a wrx cause at those speeds, the rex (as previously stated by a wrx owner) becomes a huge wind resistance. where as the skyline's gearing and smoother body line doesn't have this problem and can pull away. but legit racing. circuit, 1/4 mile. an R33 has no chance..

man there is some dribble here.. and from what I remember, in the last r33 v wrx thread. I'll bring up a few points to ponder. 1.) someone go out and find the TORQUE figures for a R33 gtst and MY03 WRX 2.) JAZZA has no idea and should try to remain quiet and learn something in this thread. 3.) hardly anyone tried to actually answer this guys questions.. assuming it's talking about 2 mates racing, I'd say you are talking about on public roads from the lights and so forth like most tools out there. answer will be that you're stock R33 gtst will lose to his auto rex. exhaust, filter, bit of boost from your r33 against his stock rex will probably be about the same from a set of traffic lights. these threads just go nowhere. stock rex will beat a stock r33 gtst in 0-100, and 1/4 mile. in the auto, he will be able to stall the thing up to about 2600rpm if I remember correctly. and seeing as it is the my03 model which has the highest torque figure at the lowest rpm's in all the rexes to date, he will have no issues of broken gearboxes and will eat your skyline over and over. a manual will be even quicker if he is willing to take the risk of high rpm launch. some will, some wont. the whole broken gearbox is overstated. hell you can break an R33 gtst gearbox if you really wanted to and they are supposedly good for 400rwkw... good clutch choice will save it. just because triple plate is the go for the japs doesn't mean you need to get it cause it comes with a sticker. any car can be made to be quicker. straight line or thru turns. I'll give you a quick example. about 3 weeks ago my friend bought his RS liberty (93 model) turbo back. he had sold it in 1996 or something. he bought it back and the last owner has done some very good work. it looks like a stock liberty RS apart from the 17's and the STI brakes that you can see. still has top mounted water to air intercooler. the previous owner has done a best time of 1:06 at wakefield. and has a consistant average of 1:08. the car is worth about $14K to the right buyer. my mate picked it up for under $10K the car has still got it's stock RS liberty gearbox but now using STI ratio's and rear diff. RS liberty's aparently have the weakest of all the subaru turbo gearboxes. you go explain the 280,000kms in a car that has spent most weekends at race tracks on the stock gearbox. all off topic here but I guess you get my point of what is possible in terms of bang for buck. all those saying r33 gtst will beat a stock wrx.... please!! yes this is a skyline forum and we all love skylines but some of you need to get your eyes out of the sexy rear lights and look around and realise there is a world out there that is beyond the skyline. and to finish off (gets out wooden spoon and big pot)..... why buy a r33 gtst when you can get an R32 gtst which is the better car and faster than the r33 down the quarter.

how different are they if any? will one fit the other car? anyone had them side by side to see. cheers

I am yet to go for a drive in a 30det powered car. someone in sydney take me for a spin.. so so jealous...

I keep hearing that the "V" design is inherently stronger than the inline design. Can anyone explain to me why? let's talk 6 cylinder engine here being SAU and all. say an RB26 (if it were in an NA setup - and there have been some) compared to the engine in the 350Z's... what is it VQ35 or am I making up engine names.. anyway, why are "V" engines "inherently" stronger than inline? How are they stronger? at what stage (power wise) does this strength become a factor? :cheers

I think FAT said it was on an HCR32 GTST so he doesn't have a standard solenoid.

well it seems you built the bottom end for alot more than that.. hahaha good work. that turbo have internal gate?

SAFC would be cheaper than all those options. temporary fix. then sell it once the power fc is in

Let's play Roshambo.. First, I kick you in the nutts for asking fluttering questions, then you kick me in the nutts. last man standing wins.

I think sydney kid said he got it all from Holden. "stock commondore parts" was his comment I believe.

nice work Dave. quick run down on your engine please.

have you read the thread on here about the extrude honing of the stock manifolds? the thread title is: 'Stainless or factory exhaust manifolds, results inside.' interesting read for you.

yep. block off the rubber hose from the stock bov leave that looped hose there. the vacuum line from the stock bov goes to the top of the apexi one.

the big black tube is the "PLUMBACK" line. sine the apexi is a atmo venting bov.. you simply block the big black plumback line. take the rubber hose off the plumback line and put a coke bottle cap over the now open metal plumback line. clamp it on there using the hose clamp off the rubber hose. get me?

way to bounce an old thread to tell us you are going to try it.

that is a bigarse heat shield.

looney head - it seems that 6000-6500rpm is a safe rev limit Gary - sorry. when I was refering to BATMBL's dump pipes, I was refering to the original one piece ones which have a bellmouth type opening at the turbo. which then shrinks down to a 3 inch pipe. when I read your reply, I skimmed over it and didn't take in the "SPLIT" part. do you know the other ones I am refering to? this pic isn't one of his but the shape is kinda similar..

the overboosting I was refering to... Some cars I've seen (mitsubishi's), when the dump pipe or wastegate itself are too restrictive, they tend to over boost or spike up to above what you set it. don't know wether to call it boost spike or creep or over boost. and with a largish turbo, and a dump pipe where the wastegate and turbine gases aren't seperated, I thought it might be an issue... but if you disagree, that's a good enough for me.

slightly off topic but I have a few more questions. and these are all to have the RB30det in an R32 GTST 1.)What ECU. I know obvious choice is PFC.., what are they worth? what are other options? I ask this because if you factor in a PFC and hand controller, Z32 or Q45 AFM, the price is pretty high and you don't even have it on there yet. What ECU's are available that don't need AFM but still work well with cold start, fuel consumption and so forth. 2.) 500HP TURBO. internally gated? will this control boost reliably? which one will bolt to the stock RB20/25 exhaust manifoild? 3.) for this turbo and looking at somewhere around 300rwkw.... what dump pipe? will those dump and front in one jobs from BATMBL on these forums do the trick? will it be too restrictive and cause over boost problems? 4.) and this has been looked in to kind of. but... for a street only car (with possible trips to track and strip to see how it all goes onec or twice) but mainly a street car.. what size exhaust housing is best? since I don't plan to rev past 6000rpm nor run more than 1 bar boost.... the 0.82 rear has been given a "light switch" title by some. is it going to be uncontrolable? will the 1.02 or what ever the bigger one is be too laggy on the street.. example, cruising in 4th at 65km/h (standard R32 gearbox and diff) and you plant your foot.. will the 0.82 end up in a smoke show? will the 1.02 end up with you at 70km/h after 5 seconds? take in to consideration the 8.2 or 8.3 compression I will have using stock Rb30 bottom and stock Rb25de head.

When I had my Liberty RS, it had a 3 inch system and had a 3inch regular muffler sprayed black with a tip that dropped down facing the ground which was also sprayed matt black. Same will go on to my next R32.

any skyline is better than ANY S13.. if it were an S14 or S15 then I'd say sell up.

I bought a side mount off a Tommy Kaira R32 GTST. It was an ARC item. Not sure if Tommy Kaira actually MAKE their own intercoolers or even if they make any ENGINE PERFORMANCE ENHANCING parts? anyway, the same type of side mounted ARC one I had was used in a ZOOM's CA18DET build up they did and they were running 200rwkw or somethinn like that through it. have you compared that one there to a factory R32 gtst intercooler to see if it's actually any different? Cause the one I had, had the ARC badge on it.

read here when you got time.. if you have more questions... read it again. http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm if you want a short answer. Get a GTR tube and fin intercooler if you HAVEN'T upgraded the stock R32 GTST radiator. if yo uhave, get a hybrid copy bar and plate kit for cheap. they both do the job. Tube and fin allows more air through the radiator.

scooby. you changing to N1's and N1 manifolds which you are going to have work done by john will not prove anything. UNLESS, you put the N1's and their manifolds on, tune and get a dyno result. then take them off, have them honed and put back on and back on the dyno. I can't see how your example is going to be any use to others that want to know what these modified stock manifolds will do for $500 odd dollars. I'm sure that someone will eventually do this. there are plenty of skylines out there with bigger turbo's on stock manifolds. it just needs one of them to go to UAS, go on their dyno, go to work shop, get modified manifolds on there, go back on dyno. compare the results. That will be the selling point. I guess these manifolds will be pertty much a waste of money for those with stock rb20/25 turbo's anyway.

well think about it. when the hole was open, it was sucking in air which wasn't measured by the afm. the air that the afm measures, gets the right amount of fuel. the afm goes.. "HEY ECU... I got x amount of air commin in to the engine.. Make sure you add the right amount of fuel" the ecu goes "yeh yeh.. I got ya covered" and there is peace on the planet "combustion chamber" but then you go "I'll just leave this hole open... she'll be right mate" so all this extra air sneaks in to the combustion chamber where the air and fuel mix and get exploded by the sparks.. but due to more air in there that the afm didn't know about, you have a lean reading.. this is all true. if you listen carefully, this is the conversation that goes on in your engine bay. ocasionally, you might even hear the afm go "nah *** ya.. I'm not playing today.. I can't be farked" then the ecu gets upset and the car runs like shit.. true story I like stories!!