TTT

hahahahaha it's hard to copy and paste sometimes hey?

straight pipes and silicon bends as for diameter of pipe, look for posts by sydney kid regarding intercooler piping. he has posted it many times.. it is a rough formula for what size pipe is ideal for what horsepower figures. or he might see this and post here.

so you left the return pipe open right? a coke bottle cap or similar fits over it. then use a hose clamp to clamp it on there. did you get a lean dyno read out "AFTER" you blocked this hole? 125rwkw is about normal for a r32 with exhaust and pod. I'm sure that if the return pipe is blocked and you went on the dyno, you will find a nice rich figure.

I see. fancy word for sanding.. hahaha just kidding. so instead of some sort of rought material, your company or people you use for extrude honing, is using some sort of "gritty gue" to get an even more smooth surface inside the exhaust manifolds. Apart from the CFM figures, will you be able to provide a RWKW figure for those of us that will be after dyno figures (not me but I'm sure you'll find the same thing here as with the plenums) will you eventually get a GTST or GTR with stock manifold and only replace the stocker with one of your modified ones and have before and after dyno readings with everything else being equal like boost etc? You also mentioned that you do different amount of honing on each runner to bring up the most restrictive ones.. and yet the CFM results still show uneven amounts per runner. using your results above of... UAS Extrusion Honed Factory Manifolds..................182.7.........167.4.........179.3.... Factory Manifolds....................................................155.7.........138.2 ........150.1..... that is an increase of ............................................27.0............29.2...........29.2 That's not exactly that different amount of honing per runner. I may be mis calculating something.. correct me if my example is wrong. also, when extrude honing an exhaust manifold, are you aiming for "EQUAL" CFM for each runner? and also trying to get MAX cfm when doing so? so in a perfect world, would you have wanted all 3 runners to have 182.7 CFM figure? cheers. sorry for all the questions. gotta learn somehow.

since this is in the tech section rather than sales section, Can someone or you John, explain exactly what is "extrude honing"... what does it do? how is it done? also, are the RB20 and RB25 exhaust manifolds identical? thanks.

I see.... do you remember the difference off the top of your head?

just to let others know. you can't build your own like this for this price, unless you got your r32 gtst for about $10K. and that would not look like this one. even a budget rb30 build without gearbox and tuning and install will be a little over $5K.. excellent value. good luck with the sale.

rb25det valve springs or rb25de valve springs.. was that a typo? just want to clarify.

1.) using SK's 475hp example, you will also have read his main key in that result. I think it was something like... TUNING...TUNING...TUNING... and more TUNING... Also, he got that 475HP at the engine using an old T04 of some sort at 1 bar boost. and at 6200rpm was max power. the low RPM and low BOOST and careful tuning is the reason that engine has over 70,000kms on it and still going. 2.) I believe he used OEM rings, bearings and gaskets. I think that CUBES PDF also has what part numbers and brands he used. The PDF is in his signature. 3.) Cams should be fine for that figure from other's finding. The Valve springs though... I'm not sure. Joel (CUBES) and his mate both bought R32 RB25de heads and sent them away for testing. Joels was fine but the other one had seating issues.. I think the GTR valves will set you back about 300 - 400 dollars and that would be fine for the power you are after.

Doesn't a stock R33 turbo have a 0.43 rear? That turbo you have don't sound right at all. and you said it gets to 18 psi then drops back to 9.. isn't that what happens when the revs catch up with the psi on a restrictive turbo? reminds me of my MX6 I used to have.

correct. all factory plumback bovs are open at idle. They constantly recirculate the air at idle and off boost cruising.

Damo - Save the bovs for me.. I need them in 6 months.. not kidding. Cheers TT

interesting thread... I want to see the outcome of this one.

the rear is even worse.. the front has an upside down alfa 156 grill, the rear has slanted 156 tail lights. worst rex eva

this thread just gave me the same sick in the stomach feeling when I saw my empty parking spot a month or so back. I don't know about you guys but I am certain these are no random thefts. I am extremely close to getting a printout of all the recent car thefts... which have all been sydney by the way, and try to speak to a detective at a cop shop. As if this isn't just like it was a few years back now when they went and did raids and found shit loads of stolen cars and parts... I've had enough... I'm gonna ***ing do it. I'm gonna try to get someone to take a serious look into all this instead of giving me the "don't expect to get it back in one piece" bullshit I was told when they came to see me 4 hours after I reported my loss.

MsG_ChRiS - I don't associate myself with those types of animals. If you really want to know about my car loss problems... read the following thread. I won't clutter this one with my problems.. I found out a few things.... I couldn't disclose at the time. now I just don't care. happy reading.. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...opic=85384&st=0

I just meant cause he's using the stock ones.. which are already black. why bother spending money on it. use your money better like mailing it to me. it'll make you feel better about yourself.

so you just wanted sound? anyway, shaqrx3 - factory bovs are probably the best setup you will get. but if you must upgrade and want sound, the single greddy type R is fine. it is huge and it will flow more than you will ever make.. Let me know when you want to sell your stock ones.

How about Black

you can "search in thread" to find what you need. don't need to read all posts. or.. find a post by user id "CUBES" in his signature section, he has a link to rb30det build. which contains part numbers, photos and instructions.

R32's don't have the snorkel. so for an R32, the panel filter is best. try the piper cross ones. cheap too. and many people are very happy with them

don't turn this in to a sr20 v's rb20 thread. no-one wins that. just leave it... Greek warrior - Yes an R32 gtst with rb20 is a good car. you will have good fun with it. if you are strapped for cash then don't even think about an engine swap. just an rb25 engine will be over $2K just an Rb26 engine will be over $5K. then the cost of puttin git in, getting ECU and shit.. forget about it. either buy one that someone has spent money to put an rb25 or rb26 in or just be happy with what you got.

On security though... My friend recently bought an RS Turbo Liberty (he owned it originally back in 1995 and sold it and bought it back off the same guy a few weeks ago.) ANYWAY... the guy he bought it back from is an electrical engineer of some sort and made his own security. He designed a series of immobilisers that are deactivated ONLY with a sequence of events. like a series of buttons that need to be pressed, IN ORDER, or the car doesn't start. it's saved his car 3 times. on the 3rd time, the theaves got annoyed and ripped the whole ignition barrel out. so he left it out, and got one of those racing/rally type red cut off keys. so now, my mate puts the big red key in, does his sequence of buttons, then presses a cool starter button like you see on boats. apart from that he keeps his wheel brace and club lock in the car too. I think he also has a heavy duty Chain which he somehow wraps around the rear diff of the car stopping it from moving forward or back. and then the usual central locking and alarm.

yep.. from the street, the driveway is blocked by trees, then up the driveway and behind a wall. no way you could see it unless you walked up the driveway to the front of our building.

My stock looking S14 series one was stolen. third party insurance. alarm, club lock, off street parking. I'm out of pocket $16K for that car and $4K for the shitter I drive around in now. Don't be a tool. get comp insurance