TTT

SydneyKid has tested this on one of their race cars. their race cars don't use cats so a dyno run was done as is and as a test he fitted the 4 inch Magic Cat and dyno'd again and the car lost no power at all. he mentioned that this was the ONLY cat he had seen with this type of result. Considering the CATCO 3 inch ones are worth about $250 I think, this magic cat at $300 is a bargain.

I don't see how. he didn't change the bovs at the same time as plenum. this is interesting though. I'd be interested at the outcome. also, I'm assuming this is a gtr... making 367awkw... how come you are changing the plenum? is it restricting somthing? I'm sure I've seen stock ones on cars producing a FAIR bit more power. Just curious why the change at this power level and if it was a recommendation? and by who?

Short answer = NO. slightly longer answer = NO. but you'll be happy to know that the standard plenum will be no restriction at all up to about 450hp, and has been tested to be better than MOST aftermarket plenums (which I am assuming you want to change so it faces towards the front).

well lets hope some people reply for you then. but the people on that thread have stated it over and over and people keep asking the same thing 101 pages later cause they don't want to read it and they have stopped trying to help. if it helps you at all, WHEN... I do my one. it will be stock rb30 bottom end with the pistons that are in there.... new rings. stock rb25de head... tested stock rb20/25 exhaust manifold. some turbo that will make close to 500hp at 1 bar. and with a 1.03 rear so I can actually drive it without frying the tyres. Add intercooler, oil cooler, PFC, GTR injectors, fuel regulator (if required), that is all in terms of MOTOR mods. not that it helps you but I want to do a budget one and see what I can safely get. and I'm quite certain it will be a lot moe driveable and safe than a modded RB20 that will come with the car.

you do know that there is a 101 page thread right? and has shit loads of pics and info..

are you working off the stock boost gauge or an aftermarket one. cause the stock one doesn't read PSI. just a thought. you still didn't answer if this has always happened since you bought the car or recently. if this only just started hapening now, have you made any recent changes?

that whole BOV mod was actually from Tomei. I guess they just thought it made the car better. and with new cams, I guess 1/2 a psi extra boost and a little less spool up time will make the car even better when added on top of the new cams.

r32 standard is 205/55/16x6.5 rims r33 standard is 225/50/16x6.5 rims r32 gtr is 225/50/16x8 rims Z32 300zx is 225/50/16x7.5 rims I think the R33 GTR wears 245/45/17x9 rims (I think)

not sure.. I'm sure a quick search through AUSrotary forum would find the answers. like I said.. it was just a thought.

CUBES - Have you considered getting a second hand cheap turbo from a Rotary of some sort? I'm pretty sure they have rather large exhaust wheels even on the stock cars. I'm sure it won't be a direct bolt on but they are fairly cheap and might work out a better option than the VG30 way.. just a thought.. not sure if it's a good one though... hehehe

these cars weren't built with daily comuting in mind. if you take a look at the list of goodies on these cars, suspension setup, the durability of drivelilne, you'd understand that they were built to be abused a little. so an R32 GTST with a cat back or even turbo back being the only mod... and in winter, you can do whatever you like with it without worrying. as someone mentioned though.. if you plan on constant circuit or drifting, you should consider the other options before a FMIC on a near stock car. make sure that the radiator is up to the task and same goes for the rubber hoses which are who knows how old. a radiator flush and pressure test and new coolant would give you peace of mind. oil cooler. it seems that these always get over looked by most people. but then again most car aren't circuit raced. Do some reasearch and you'll find that you can use a second hand transmission oil cooler (with mods) as an engine oil cooler. these are cheap effective mods.. It seems you're on a budget. so to answer your question, Get the stereo if you must. FMIC is not needed for a stockish R32 GTST at this time of year. Don't bother with a water spray for the stock cooler.. waste of time and money. spend a few bucks on the radiator flush and pressure test. replace oil and oil filter and go enjoy.

BUMP - I am now willing to take offers on the system as it is (with crushed muffler) best offer over $150 will take it. I doubt you will find a better buy than that. 3.5" cat back without muffler at this price can't be beat.

ummm... from the post that you put up.. where it says "I'VE GOT" I assumed that meant that YOU'VE GOT since you are the one posting.

I have a new Clutch at home somewhere in the garage. bought it for $150 but never used it. willing to sell for $100 if anyone needs one. It is identical to the unit that was on my R32 gtst

R32 gtst's have the nipple on the turbo compressor housing instead of the intercooler pipe like the R33's. I agree with the above in that it should be taken as close to the turbo as possible.

did anyone else notice that Paul R33's car is an AUTO? doesn't this make a difference to power at the wheels? don't they have different ratio's? and how do they keep it in the gear that is 1:1 ratio as the auto kicks back if floored. just a thought.

hahahahaha

waves $50 at Blitz for his stock GTR bovs hahaha

hahaha.. I don't know why you'd want to change them for other bovs personally. I don't even have a car to put them on at the moment anyway. I was just trying to get someone in here to say that they are the best bovs or that they are worth heaps more.. seem's to have worked.

shhhhhhhhhhhh shut uuuuuuuuuuuuupppp!!!

not sure.. but to help you on your way, I'll pay you $50 for those 2 crap stock GTR bovs that come with the car.

I think the commo comment was talking about the VL commo's which the RB30 originally came from. not comparing it to a V6 commo. anyway... that has nothing to do with this topic.

geoff - please don't be offended. I haven't heard a 25dett. I have heard 26dett and 26deT and the exhaust note wasn't that different. it was different... but not much. It still sounded much like a gtr then any rb25det with large turbo that I have been in or been behind to hear the exhaust. I didn't mean to say that you were wrong.. I just assumed that the other things listed would give the car the rougher sound.

they do sound more mechanical and that is what I would say is tough. get a stock rb26 with an exhaust and any other stock RB with an exhaust, and the rb26 sounds a lot more angry, mechanical, harsh, tough.... what ever you want to call it. I just like it and wanted to know what caused it. I don't agree that it's the turbo's. if that were the case, then an rb26 with a large single would sound like an rb25 with a large single.. but it doesn't. still sounds more mechanical. I'm going to go with the thought that it is the combination of cams, exhausts ports (if they are infact different), throttles...

I had the R2D2 on my skyline when I bought it. it goes PSSHHHHH so does the Veeport. greddy type S makes a similar sound to the HKS SSQV. greddy Type R... not sure what sound it makes.