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Everything posted by TTT
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only thing I can add is that this exact cooler is on my friends S15 (1 year old now) and he has consistantly produced 195rwkw. I am yet to hear that TRUST/GREDDY make something bad. Sure there are better coolers out there and there are worse. The kit comes with everything needed. Even a template for cutting the hole for the cooler pipe.
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BMXWRX - I did actually say ROUGH numbers. I also want to agree with REV210 that the lion will eat a steak.
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You wont belive this omg omg omg please help
TTT replied to habibskyline's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA -
stop being narrow minded skyline owners. rough numbers. wrx = 1300kg with 160kw r33 = 1350kg with 187kw so power to weight is close but add 4wd and then measure them in a proper place (400m) and the skyline will lose. no doubt. and to make it fair, use the same year model for both. 96, 97 whatever.
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Replacing Buzzing R32 Turbo With Stock R32 Turbo
TTT replied to JAS's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
are you sure the buzzing sound isn't just the $20 gasket leaking? -
Reducing Wastegate Creep to virtually nothing
TTT replied to benl1981's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Can I suggest you guys go to the STAGEA forums on here and read SK's thread on the JAY CAR BOOST controller kit. he was saying that this kit allows you to bring on boost fast and is the only boost controller EVER that he has seen that can hold the wastegate completely shut until your set boost setting. considering they cost less than a bleed valve, it could be worth while looking at. -
mate what do you ***ing care? you're in Cairns and obviously not interested in buying.. if you have a problem then PM him or PM a mod to look into it. he's negotiable on price too. a manual conversion would set you back about $1500 at the most with an RB20 gearbox. that would give you a 4 door ATTESSA equiped R32 already complianced, registered, and ready for you to drive it away. negotiate the price to bring it down enough to get the manual conversion done and for under $14K you get all that. show me another 4 door 4wd R32 on the forums for sale under $14K.. actually, do a search and see if there was any that was sold even.. stop being childish.
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For Sale: r32 - rb25det with mods
TTT replied to z3n2k's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
you said not for sale but would you consider swapping? that way you don't have to wait for another car. swap for S14? not as much power, but newer and worth about the same or a little more. -
quick question: GTS4 (r32 4wd. what was required to modify the sump to make an RB30det fit? was it cheap? can the stock sump that comes with the car be modified to fit? Can't remember if this was discussed. cheers TT
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Variety R32, R33, R34 Bits
TTT replied to GDTNO's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
so it's a business then hey? why is it in the private section? -
I honestly think it would be less hassles and cheaper in the end to buy a turbo from an Rb25det. direct bolt on and produces about 10-15rwkw more than stock turbo at same boost level (10psi) $350 was what I payed for mine about 2 years ago. they are about the same price these days. I also think that it would be a better turbo than the 1986 model rb30t turbo. not to mention in better condition. also, I was under the impression that the rb30t turbo had it's wastegate flap attached to the dump pipe rather than turbo. I'm sure this is another thing you would have to over come or just use the stock rb30t dump pipe which is most likely crap.
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rb26/rb20 (2.4l) Head hybrid questions.
TTT replied to Nismo_Boy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
sent you a PM with my details. when you have some time free on a weekend in sydney give us a buzz.. I'll clean out your garage for ya. hahaha -
WSID Results - Wed 16th - Post yours up
TTT replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
18's?? try it again with a set of 16's and 225's with 20psi air in them. I'm sure you could get it better.. hmmm.. in my S14 I was launching at 4000-4300rpm and that was best for me with heavy'ish 17x9's and 255's. anything below 4000rpm and it would bog, even with slipping the clutch.. anything above 4300rpm would require backing off to get traction. -
good effort I say. I'd be interested in your results when you do it.
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rb26/rb20 (2.4l) Head hybrid questions.
TTT replied to Nismo_Boy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
roy.. I'll take some RB20 parts off your hands.. knock sensors, AFM, ecu, crank angle sensor, top part of plenum, air box.... -
you program your own stock ecu? well aren't you handy.. tell me something.. have you had a play with making changes to AFM? like if you plugged in a Z32 afm, could you make it work on stock ecu?
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coolers don't make noises either. and yes.. that above is what causes the fluttering noise.
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My brothers BMW is up for sale. E36 BMW 320i sedan. 2L straight 6 White Low km's (152,000) 5 speed manual. well maintained. Decent stereo with DVD and TV subs amps 17" BMW wheels from E46 continental tyres lowered king springs M3 style rear lights, front indicators and repeaters. aftermarket muffler (slightly more sound) Sydney buyers only. Won't disappoint $16,500 NEW PRICE - $15,500 Call 0416 42 44 44
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found it.. http://www.geocities.com/kilruf/bov.html take that monkeys..
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remove your stock blow off valve.. it is on the pipe that goes across the engine. the engine is in the fron tof the car under metal thing called a bonnet. onec you remove it, block the holes where it was, where it plumbed back to and the little vacuum hose on top. start the car - use the key that came with it. go for a drive.. accelarate hard (using the pedal on the far right) then change gears.. you will hear the noise you want. I hope this has been informative. don't tell guys that tell you to search for stuff, that you know the difference, because it is damn obvious in your posts that you STILL don't. the only time you hear a wastegate making noise is once you hit full boost. and only if it is an external wastegate which is venting externally. they can also be plumbed back in tothe exhaust. and the sound you hear from them is not a fluttering or during gear changes. it is an extremely loud screaming noise.. you know.. the noise a turbo makes at 100,000rpm with no muffler.. just a 30 cm long metal pipe.
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so you fiddled with the plug while the car was running and it didn't stall right?
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roy.. I temporary replaced my Stock R32 gtst bov with a plumback GFB one. Before I put it on the car, I loosened it all the way until the bolt on top that tightens it was turning on it's own and there was no spring pressure under it.. so right out. then tightened it back until you feel it touch the bov piston. then turned it over, and stuck my thumb up it's a$$. when you push the piston in, and look in the venting hole, it doesn't open until you push the piston in about 10mm. so even on the lightest setting, the piston is that far in the chamber. you take a stock gtst bov and look at it, you will see that the flap (it's not a piston) that seals the bov closed, sits on the base and as soon as you just push the flap up a little bit, it is already cracked open. so with the stock bov not plumbed back, I watched it as my brother started the car.. as the car searched for idle and eventually stalled within 5 seconds, I could see the bov open the whole time. the gfb plumback bov on it's lightest setting on the car, not plumbed back my brother starts it and it idles fine and stays shut. how ever once you rev and release it blows off and stays open just a little too long and the car stalls. once plumbed back it was fine obviously. I sold the GFb off as it made no difference to performance and I figured I would use the $200 elsewhere. now skylines use AFM's, so why would the GTR bov be different to the GTST bov? the ecu reads the same sort of crap and needs to be re-circulated to function as intended. as for the one way valve.. I can't see why it wouldn't work. the problem of the stock bov being open at idle is that under vacuum (idle) it sucks air in fro the bov (if not plumbed back) and this causes it to stall.. the one way valve basically allows the bov to BLOW but not suck during vacuum. I printed it out ages ago to try as a project but I can't find the article on the net now... I'll keep looking. it was on some guys miata. it was a bosch plastic bov. the one way valve was plastic as well.
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maybe your air flow meter has been touched and the plug not put back in properly. start your car, open bonet, then touch the AFM plug and see if the car stalls.
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do you realise he is in sydney?
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DIRT GARAGE - no need to cry mate. The gtst bovs stay open at idle and I figured the GTR ones would be the same since they are used as plumbacks. does this supra still use an AFM? There was some details on the web on how to make a bosch bov vent to atmo with no stalling by using a one way valve on the outlet of the bov. a friend of mine was using a bosch valve on his subaru which had an aftermarket ecu and no AFM.. even though it was open at idle it had no problems. so this supra... afm or not?