TTT

I think both engines have good and bad points. however, lets forget about street cars for a second. as an example, lets look at drag. Lets look at a 1994 200sx. lets call him "DEVLSH" 8.9?? still a 2L alloy block. and that was with the stupid Viscous coupling diff spinning one wheel all the way down the track. yes that is one example.. GGHOST is another example that ran a 9.something.. 2L SR20 someone give me an example of a similar RB20 go on...

what would be a rought cost for R32 GTR: bonnet grille front bar rear spoiler and to have them sprayed in the required colour (most likely require a change in colour.) someone must have bought this stuff before..

you would need to cut off the transfer case and weld it up. well basically that is it.. internally I've been told many times that the rb25 and gtr gearboxes are the same. what car is it in?

no it doesn't nee dto be changed often, but how do you know when it was last changed? for the cost of about $50 at the most, you will have peace of mind. problems - don't set the boost too high as the ceramic exhaust wheel will fail due to the MORE THAN NORMAL heat that it will build up with constant caining on a circuit. especially with the stock sandwhich toaster.. I mean intercooler. nothing else really. I guess it's always a good idea to keep an eye on oil temps but there is nothing on the stock r32 gtst that tells you that. maybe invest in a oil cooler.. but is it necessary on a stock r32 gtst? don't know.

All fluids changed.. mixtures checked. brake fluid changed. decent pads non soggy suspension.. just gets frustrating..

hahahahaha Gary seems to be in a bit of a mood today.. are you chugging a pint every time you post the little toasting smileys on here?? hahaha even better is cerealkiller's reply with his signature attached. hahahahahaha

I didn't mean chosen engine as in you personally haveit.. I meant in terms of preference between the 2 and experience in the 2. as I said, 4G63 is where it's at.. hahahaha

in the photos. the rear picture shows damage or something on the rear right guard.. near the petrol filler.. is that damage or just the photo.

electronic? what are you talking about? anyway, I think that you should upgrade and sell those crappy stock items to me for $50 deal? DEAL!!

4G63 case closed. there was a similar thread in here somewhere where SK and _OMG put in a great deal of info about the RB and SR. both guys know a great deal about their chosen engines.. kinda turned to a sh*t fight but it was good while it lasted. maybe search for that and have a read.

I didn't realise the 4 doors came in 4wd too. is that a 89 model? such a shame it's auto..

1.) the sound it will make is not the same as the SR20 powered cars. it is similar but not the same. on the SR20's, that noise is caused even though they have the stock plumb back bov attached. the return line of the S15 and S15's isn't large enough so once you increase boost a little bit, you start hearing that "DO DO DO" sound you described so well. I can show you this in my car if you are in sydney. The sound the skyline's make with no bov is more like a rattle snake.. like "trrrrrrrrrrr" However, once you get a FMIC, the sound changes once again. 2.) Yes you need to block off the vacuum line as well. a screw will do for that. 3.) Wether this damages the turbo is a whole other story. there is no real evidence that it does or doesn't. I know the theory of what happens with no bov all too well so no need to tell me. Everyone has their own story/theory of what no bov will do or not do. I don't feel the need to add mine as I have done it too many times and people obviously don't know how to search. I'll add 2 things though. 1.) I had an ex rally car. it was a 88 Laser TX3 turbo. 1.6L hi flow turbo. was putting out 120kw at the front wheels when I disengaged the rears. this thing was rallied for 50,000kms and I had it for about 20,000kms on the road. the stock bov was removed. it was running 1 Bar boost for the whole time, fluttering away on each gear change. never had any turbo problems.. many others but no turbo ones. 2.) I chose to run the stock bov on my current car and even when I had my skyline for the simple reason that the car worked/works better. it idles better, it doesn't jerk when you back off from throttle slowly.. it just runs smoother. Even though my current S14 runs 1 bar boost and on anything above 5psi, it will flutter, normal driving on the road where you are on and off the throttle slowly rather than fast and harsh like on a track, the car behaves better. up to you what you want. I personally wouldn't go with no bov and my reasons are above. if you want the "LOOK AT ME" thing, then go right ahead.

tractor... lawn mower.. eother way, some sort of farm machinery rather than a smooth straight 6

I read about those.. SK - the car you put it on, was there any significant restriction in the exhaust prior to the magic cat install? like the soarer in the zoom article? what were your gains?

Both your problems are caused by the one fault. Turbo to manifold gasket. You are probably missing a bolt/nut that is holding the turbo to the manifold. if they are all there, then you will probably find that one or more are loose. the above 2 problems cause HOT HOT exhaust gases to escape from the nearest opening, and this is obviously between the turbo and exhaust manifold. this burns the gasket and then you eventually start hearing the high pitch squeel when you come on boost. obviously because this is when there is more pressure going through there.. if you leave it, you will eventually start hearing the car run like a lawn mower on cold starts.. sort of a ch ch ch ch sound as air escapes through there.. now. the boost drop at high revs.. again, the leaking gasket is to blame cause it is taking the easiest exit out of the system here.. it just can't hold that pressure when there is a leak. GCG turbo's in Sydney sell the nissan exhaust gasket kits for $27 I think. then it's a matter of spending the time doing it yourself or paying like $200 for a mechanic to do it for you. I'd take the mechanic option as this will mean that when he brakes a manifold stud (and he will and so will you if you try it), he can just drill it out and tap a new one in.

don't buy anything. Do the following and you will ge the sound. Go to car. open bonnet. find stock bov. remove stock bov. block hole where stock bov was. block the hole where the stock bov returned the air. go for drive. sick noise bro.

thanks all.

end of this year/early Jan, I will be looking for an R32 gtst sedan (4 door) so who can recommend an importer to go through? or even to check their stock. I had links to a few but lost them. I'd prefer to buy one already here but lets admit it.. they're not too common.

hmm... looks like it will have to go throttle to passenger side of cooler then, following almost stock piping lines.

yeh... but my "GONNA DO" plan was to do the 120 degree bend from throttle option. I think that will still fit..

so in an R32 GTST, lowering the engine as stated above, will allow the bonnet to close when using the stock rb20et plenum/collector/throttle area.. .. Correct?

what surprises me with al lof this is the ability of the stock nissan cast exhaust manifold to flow so well. any other turbo car has major problems flowing double it's stock power output. where as some people are getting way over double the power while still using stock cast exhaust manifolds. are there any gains to be had by doing and slight port work with a dremel tool on the exhaust manifold ports? I ask this cause with the VR4 I had, people would get good gains from either doing this to the stock manifold or getting an EVO 3 one which basically has slightly larger ports than the VR4 exhaust manifold.

76mm is more than enough. with the 100mm, you will get problems with no air getting to your already thin radiator.. not to mention more lag. there are people who have used the 76mm one (I'm guessing HYBRID bar and plate) and made over 250rwkw comfortably. the 100mm ones are really for DRAG only purposes as they will server no purpose on the street.. especially when connected to an RB20

How can you have purchased a 1993 car back in 1991?

has it even been a month? what's next? not back to subaru I hope.