TTT

he's too busy to use the search function remember?? hahahaha

cooler - Look in to trust's kits. boost controller - NOT the AVCR.. fancy but crap. from what I have read on specs, I would look at the BLITZ SBC-ID III. cost is about $900 from AUTOBAHN or just under $700 from japan online stores. BOOSTD's turbo story is a very interesting read. However, from what I have read, I don't think that you have the knowledge (nor do I) to get those results as he did most of the work with hybrid-ising (my new word for the day) that turbo. You sound very much like a "go to a workshop and point at a product for them to fit" kinda a guy as a lot of us are.. I think that you will find with a new intercooler and about 10-11psi boost with the other mods you have, you will see about 200rwkw with the PFC tuned right. considering this is 20rwkw more than you have now and an even large number of torque higher than you have now, you will be happy with it for a while.. THAT can be the first step you take now.. so... about $1500 for the cooler about $700 for the boost controller about $300 for the new tune

R32 - R34 GTST, GTT bov's are the same and bolt on to each other. same 2 bolts... TT's USELESS FACT: the gtst bovs are actually MITSUBISHI items. Galant VR4 uses same bov. GTR bovs are different to the GTST ones.

bump... wreckhead.. any update on your wheels? you still interested in swapping the wheels that you don't even use.. hehehe

40 "inches" "INCHES of mercury" not mm INCH

did you not read the post above yours?

he didn't say 40psi... he said 40 inches of mercury absolute.. which is equal to about 1.2 bar which is about 19psi. that is what champ cars run... except when the overtake button is pressed as described above..

email us the full pic if you could.. my friend is obsessed with those poochies.. [email protected] back to topic.. wheels for sale or swap peeps..

no worries.. like I said, the rash is on the fronts.. need to see them for yourself.. if you care, we can meet up on saturday and you can see for yourself.. off topic.. is that your dog in the pic? You really should stop feeding him growth hormones.. J/K hahahahaha

well I don't know what to tell ya. I'm assuming $1K is a good price for my wheels and $1K is what I seem to see other R32 GTR wheels go for. So that is what I am aiming for.. Thanks anyway.. I guess.

bump for the day

Brand = ZOID (??) size = 17 x 8 (F), 17 x 9 ® tyres = 225/45/17 Bridgestone Potenza fronts 255/40/17 Faulken GRB RS rears stud pattern = 5 x 114.3 offset = ?? Will fit S14, R32, R33, R34 skyline gtst's... Probably fit supra's too. Condition = Good... some gutter rash on fronts. they have a small dish.. not really worth calling it that though.. good wheels. nothing wrong with them apart from the gutter scratches. Willing to swap ONLY for R32 GTR rims with tyres. otherwise... for sale for $1000. NEW PRICE = $700 Located in Sydney and only willing to sell in sydney. NOTE: they are NOT chrome.... they are silvery.. PICS

lag city???

AND how does a new fuel pump cost $600??? hahahaha I hope you said "sure, let me get out my imaginary wallet and pay you in advance."

Still for sale peoples...

2 sides to every story. Yes it is better than steel as it is lighter and therefore quicker to spool (or at least as fast as the R33 one even though the R34 one is slightly larger) NO it's not better because it is quicker to fail than the steel item. which is more important to you? You want to pay about $700+ for an R34 turbo which is more likely to fail (and lets not forget that this is the compressor wheel, which means that when it lets go, it's going inwards towards your intercooler and throttle body).... OR you want to pay about $500 for a turbo which will produce almost same numbers and last you a much longer time?

Shark33 - I purchased mine about 2 years ago for $350. they tend to go for about $500 at the most. try to get a Series 1 R33 turbo. the series 2 and R34 gtt ones have a Plastic compressor wheel and ceramic exhaust wheel where as the series 1 r33 have a steel compressor wheel and ceramic exhaust wheel. good upgrade.. good luck.

off topic - kinda.... IRISH - what company is your front LSD from and what is the purchase cost?

The only thing I have against the GTiR intercooler setup is that it is ON the engine block. the WRX ones, even though much smaller, don't get as much heat soak as they are actually behind the engine block. if you take the wrx cooler off, you will find that there is a large gap under them, down to the gearbox.

I remember reading about why some of the japs replaced the 2jz for the rb26. it was said that when they were producing close to 1000hp, the 2jz had ALOT more torque than the rb26 at the same tune level, and the sheer amount of twisting force from the 2jz just kept smashing clutches, boxes, diffs, etc.. whereas the rb26 needed more revs to produce the same power and therefore the torque wasn't as harsh in the way that it came on and this didn't break so many parts. as for why I wouldn't want another 4wd... COST. everything costs more. gearboxes are more expensive. you have front CV's. you have a transfer case. you need a tougher clutch. All of those cost alot more than a normal FR setup car. Besides, I am not likely to go chasing drag or circuit times too frequently, and therefore a GTR would be wasted on me. and my money would be wasted on it. the other thing is the engine.. I personally prefer to be able to get torque all the time and not have to rev the thing out.. the RB26 is a beautiful thing and as mentioned was built with circuit racing in mind so it has the ability and NEED to rev. the supra is happy to pull comfortably from 100km/h in 6th gear and about 2000rpm. this is a lot more important to me than seeing the rev needle over 8000rpm.

why do you say they are on the wrong side? why is there a wrong side for turbos? do you mean from a HEAT from exhaust point of view? SK - do you have any experience in the 2jzgte and what is your impression of it? I have my own opinion but you do have a shit load more experience in the technical side of things. so can you see any downsides to the supra engine apart from the ceramic wheeled turbos? do you see any weak points in them like you see in the SR20's rockers? As for my option, I'd take the supra TT over both the GTST and GTR.. I just don't like the 4wd thing anymore.. been burnt once too many times.. and you can't compare a GTST to a supra TT.. there is no contest NOTE: I still love GTR's but don't want to own one.

front/dump pipe in one cost = about $250 I think from user on this forum BATMBL. CAT = $200??? from BATMBL again. catback system custom made with no resonator muffler and a small stainless cannon muffler would be about $400 - $500.. (I got my piping with resonator muffler for $250 and I had my cannon already... I got my piping done at Carline Mufflers at Belfield. Owners name is Robert. 9750 6281 they have some mufflers you can chose from there if you want or buy one yourself from an online store and get them to weld it on. so all up, worst case senario... $250 dump/front pipe $300 cat $300 cat back $200 muffler about $1000....

yes they are.. same on RB20's and good old VL turbo RB30's as well. I have a brand new CLUTCH for the clutch fan for sale if you are after one.. $100.

a 2.2 prelude, with 147fwkw? this is the H22A (or something) engine right? you sure that's not HP? Please list the mods that pushed this engine to 147fwkw.... I'm very curious now as I have "SOME" understanding and knowledge with Honda engines and not seen many streetable NA honda's with that sort of power. also, what is the factory quoted power at the engine on that prelude in standard form?

top end? what exactly do you consider top end in traffic light race? like I said. exhaust and filter and was running 13.5 all night with no big launch. I ran a 13.8 as my fastest and my trap speed was 165km/h which was red line in 3rd gear. so what is this top end you are refering to while racing GTiR's from the lights?