TTT

increasing boost is always increasing chance of damage to the turbo. Having said that, little movement in the shaft is normal. AND, you have a new turbo coming in a month anyway, so go right ahead.

I was going to suggest strapping one of your mates to the bonnet and going for a drive but I guess sydneykid's suggestion would also work.

S14.. has very tall gears.. My r32 gtst on the dyno in 4th gear hit 7000rpm and 183km/h was showing on the recal of the speed meter.

hahahaha.. no no.. more of a challange with it in...

seems really peaky hey? also, seems like they cut out at 160km/h.. so I think that it must be 3rd gear.. that would kinda explain the power ramp.. my S14 was hitting just over 220km/h at 7000rpm on 4th on the dyno..

no the gasket is fine. and I still highly doubt it's the bov. what boost does this start happening at? like at stock it's fine.. does it do it at 9psi? or 10psi? play around with your boost controller. start at stock and then increase by 1psi untill it starts happening.. and when it does happen, what does your boost gauge do? does it keep rising steady or does it move around when you hear sh sh sh sh sh ??? you are using an after market boost gauge right? not working off the stock gtst one i hope..

nice number. but sorry to say that from that graph that doesn't look driveable at all. at 100mk/h (I guess in 4th gear on an R33 is about what 3500rpm?) you have about 95-100rwkw then at 120km/h you have about 220rwkw.. how the hell do you control that? having said that, if you went from 224rwkw to 248rwkw from changing the cat, you gotta be happy with that. that graph just looks REALLY peaky..

hmm.. perhaps mercury motor sports could arrange the gaskets for you.. I don't know of any other places up there.. and I've only hear GREAT things about them.. www.mercurymotorsport.com.au good luck TT

if you can get your hands and the right tool down there, try to tighten (slowly) the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold. you might be able to have a temporary fix till you can be bothered to get new gaskets. where are you located?

it's the gasket or gaskets between turbo and manifold. happens if the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold come loose or off in my case. I had one go missing and that corner started leaking and burnt through the gasket. when you start accelerating, it is a whirr, then as boost goes up, so does the scream and pitch. I didn't lose any boost or power at first but eventaully I could feel that it was slugish. if you don't replace the gasket/s, it will eventually leak at idle and you will get like a chuff chuff sound sort of like a lawn mower at idle. nissan turbo to manifold gaskets are not that expensive.. if I remember, on my r32 gtst, it was $27 from GCG turbo's in sydney. that pack contained the gaskets between turbo and manifold and some smaller ones for the oil and water lines.

r32-sky. would you consider a straight swap for my vr4? and where exactly are you located? I'm not sure where "Murwillumbah" is..

Bump. still for sale/swap. New price - $10,900

that looks like a turbo from a VL. I say this due to the fact that the wastegate hole doesn't have the flap on the turbo side. So I presume it is on the dump pipe. this is how the VL turbo's are. and that's the only NISSAN turbo I have seen to be like that.

no.... that tends to scream really loud on full boost, and sound like a lawn mover at low revs..

lindsey34 - from what you say, it sounds like this happens when you are accelerating rather than while changing gears.. is this correct? if so, sounds like a surge issue. I'm not too sure on a resolution. first time I have heard this happen on a stock turbo. Jaff - all you might need to do is change the spark plugs and gap the new plugs to 0.8mm. go buy some $4 each plugs (ngk copper ones) and make sure the gap is 0.8mm. that should fix your flat spot.

JAIK - It did come out in manual. 51000 - I didn't know that the bluebird came out in a 4wd non turbo. if you mean the AUS delivered fwd non turbo crappy thing, then that gearbox would not work on the jap 4wd turbo version due to not having a transfer case for the rear diff.

if it's a run about, why bother changing anything except oil?

GIX88 - PM me your number. I will probably take the 255/40/17 Dunlops off you if they are still available.

definitely lose bolts on the either the exhaust to turbo or turbo to manifold. if you leave it, they will eventually burn out the gasket in between if it already hasn't. I don't think that they are burnt out yet as you are only getting the sound at full boost. if it completely burnt out, you would hear it at idle.. sort of sounds like a lawn mower..

damn... did you know or were you informed that copper plugs are better performing plugs than any other out there, and that $4.50 NGK copper plugs would do a better job than those iridium ones? The only advantage the iridium has over the copper is that the iridium lasts longer. oh well.

you don't gap iridiums.. as told on the box and from NGK. how much did you waste.. I mean spend?

I have a new CLUTCH FAN clutch.. (Clutch only) $100 they are $150 from nissan or holden. I'm in sydney

got one of the hybrid copies on my S14. No bad comments from me at all. Shop around. www.modyourcar.com.au was selling them for $319 and www.mercurymotorsport.com.au was saying he would match or beat any price on these coolers. some places have them as a kit for certain cars for like $1100 including all stainless pipes and silicon hoses and clamps required.

$15,000 or best offer as it says on his link to the pics..

I don't get why people keep saying that the cooler has to be pressurised from 0 pressure to full pressure.. when the car is idleing, air is still in the pipes and cooler.. it's not like it is empty then when you step on the throttle nothing happens while air is filled up in the pipes and cooler and THEN you start to move.. but one other thing.. if you buy a 100mm thick cooler and I presume Bar and Plate, what radiator are you using and will it get any decent air flow to it to cool it? also, one Intercooler company is always going to put another one down.