TTT

either regap your current plugs to 0.8mm or get some new ones that are already gapped to 0.8mm or gap some new ones for yourself..

what about the GREDDY Type R.. Or ask BU5TER what he is using.. he pulled something over 350rwkw at one point..

Hi. I did mine when I had the R32. If you are going to spray anything in the engine bay, make sure you use ENGINE ENAMEL. Otherwise the paint will eventually peel off and look crap. I polished the rocker covers when I had it. Took a good 4 hours (all up) and a sore arm. You MUST take them out of the car to do a decent job. to do mine, I sanded it back to bare metal then went lighter and lighter with the sand paper down to about 1400 grade sandpaper with oil as lubricant. then I polished it up with AUTOSOL metal polish until I could see my face in it.. A few pics can be seen at..... http://www.pbase.com/image/22963789 http://www.pbase.com/image/22963790

$300

should have done a search in the forced induction section on the word "MISFIRE" and you would have found that every R33 gets this. the resolution is to take your spark plugs out, get a gapping tool and regap the spark plugs to 0.8mm (I am almost certain that your stock spark plugs woul dbe about 1.1mm) Once you have done this, you will not have any more misfire problems with the new boost. I have one other question though.. A standard R33 GTST runs 7psi as standard.. why was yours only on 5psi? Are you judging the boost levels from the STOCK in dash boost guage or do you have an aftermarket one. I ask this because of 2 things.. 1.) the stock boost guage does not read in PSI.. it is in HG or something 2.) the stock boost guage is not VERY acurate at all. If you haven't already done so, I would buy an aftermarket boost guage.. Even Autometer is fine if you are on a budget.. Until you have an aftermarket boost guage, I would take the boost controller off and leave the car's boost stock until you can modifiy it properly.. ALSO, it would be best if you installed and adjusted the boost pressure in COLD weather. If you do it in the heat and you set it to 12psi, at night time, with the colder air, you will over boost to like 13-14 psi and MAYBE damage your turbo..

woops... wrong Ben.. hahaha sorry dude..

Ben.. how is your car lately? did you do the boost controller? are you overall happy with the new turbo?

not sold yet. he is selling it cause he is going back to being a full time student. Can't afford it anymore.. He's going to get a run about for a few years..

It was pulling 11.7sec passes! Must of been on a G-tech..

Have you ever seen an APEXI core that didn't have APEXI on it somewhere?

just for rough power figures... r33 turbo at 12psi gtr fuel pump pod filter and side mounted ARC cooler and got 153rwkw. so I would say that you have between 150-160 rwkw. good luck with your sale

for a stock car yes. should be 1.1 but if you increase boost, you need a smaller gap otherwise you get misfires in the higher revs with the extra boost.

200km to a tank?? Jebus man... you weren't kidding about it being rich.. I would definitely spend a few hundred tuning it.. that's not right.. I'd also recommend a spark plug change after the mixtures are corrected.. I think that on your baseline run, the A:F ratio's will be off the chart.. as in below the 10:1 reading that most dyno's are calibrated to.. (I think)

as above.. but one question about your NEO 6 injectors. AS far as I know, the RB25DET (any RB25det) injectors are not the same as RB20 ones.. rb25's use SIDE feed high impedance whereas the RB20 ones are TOP feed and high impedance.. did you have a new fuel rail made?

my friend had a power fc installed and tuned on an S15 in November for under $500.. I'm pretty sure it wasn't that expensive.. they are very busy though and need like at LEAST a weeks advance booking.

if it is running VERY VERY RICH, then that is sort of an over kill. I think that a safe air:fuel setting is 11:1 or even 11.5:1 above that would be too lean for constant on boost type driving. My R32 GTST was at about 12.3:1 on MAX load when on the dyno but it never had a problem cause it would only be on that for a few seconds at a time. If your car is as rich as you make it out to be, it would be effecting performance, it would be fouling up your plugs and oxygen sensor and you would be getting SHIT fuel economy.. The way I see it, you have an R33 GTR. It is worth what... over $40K?? spending $70 for a single power run on a dyno would show you HOW rich/lean your car is... then I believe the most expensive I have seen is about $110 per hour for dyno tuning at like Croydon Racing Development (CRD) at Silverwater. If you have a POWER FC or some sort of aftermarket programable ecu, then it wouldn't even be more than an hours worth of tuning.. I think for under $200 you could get your car tuned to perfection and still be safe. As for how often you need to get your car dyno tuned, once it's set, you shouldn't have to retune unless you do another power mod. say you went and got it tuned and then later found that you only had a cat back and got some dump/front pipes which resulted in some more boost and power, you would be wise to make sure that this hasn't put your A:F ratio out of whack... NOTE: the above is my opinion. Some people say that the optimal air:fuel ratio for a turbo car is 12:1.... But I personally would prefer to be a little on the saefr side of Optimal... Hope that helps..

I wouldn't worry about the whine. The GTR pumps are loud as all hell compared to the GTST pump. I remember when I put a GTR pump in it had 2 noises... a slight buzz at idle then a higher, louder whine/buzz when the accelerator is touched. don't worry about it..

JUSTINFOX... The car has an aftermarket LINK computer which eliminates the need for an air flow meter, therefore an external venting bov does not affect the air:fuel mixtures and that is why the bov was passed in the engineers certificate. The Ram pod air filter is also on the certificate but I can't remember WHY it was allowed. it is all listed in the certificate though so you won't have any issues. If you are serious, I suggest you call and take a look at it cause it has gone in the trading post and has had a fair bit of interest. The car belongs to a friend of mine. his contact number is 0425 226 075. Take care.

still for sale..

quiet ED. The GETZ has a huge "look-at-me" factor

Roy, We wouldn't be arguing at all. The factory style units have been used on cars with 700hp engines even on applications of upto 30psi or so of boost. I've yet to see any hard evidence to prove the effectiveness of an aftermarket BOV over the factory unit, let alone a modified factory unit. Accelleration examples are nowhere to be found because without dodging the figures the aftermarket BOV has no advantage. Show the conclusive proof and I'll change my mind. I have examples of cars with lots of power without the aftermarket ones. Can you point me to an article where I can view this? I'm not doubting anyone. Everyone has a theory and I DON'T really want to hear it... I just want to see/read about these 700hp skylines with stock bovs.. and in terms of the modification you are talking about to the stock bov... Do you mean the blocking off of the small vacuum line that exists under it or is there other things that can be done.. I know that the MITSUBISHI guys simply crush these bovs (they are the same bov on the VR4 4G63 engines) and are able to run ALOT more boost and keep the stock item..

your skyline has a bov that vents back to the air inlet, therefore keeping the air:fuel mixtures right. vent externally on the standard AFM system and during the gear shift or back off from throttle, your car over fuels causing your car to run rich during that time, causing richer exhaust fumes... THAT is one defect, the other here in NSW (depending on if the cop wants to be a jerk) is NOISE. It is apparently UNDUE noise pollution.

if you get the adapter made up for the skyline fiting location then YES, it will fit the factory spot and can be used to vent external and plumback if you put the pipe back on.

guys... I think that atmo venting bovs in QLD are LEGAL. I suggest you call your RTA or EPA in qld to find out more, but I don't think that a bov is defectable for sound OR emmisions in QLD.

ok.. I will send you a PM with banking details.. transfer $300 to it and when I see the money in my account (usually 2 working days) I will get your address and post it to you...