TTT

the reason the car stalls or almost stalls is due to the over fueling. it depends on each car really. I have seen cars with atmo venting bovs that don't backfire or stall or search at idle or anything. but then others do it. Now. if you cent to atmo, it over fuels and it will stall or almost stall. if you tighten too much, it goes back out the turbo giving you the fluttering sound but it still over fuels and you still stall. The only aftermarket thing I have seen to fix this is some HKS idle control computer which prevents AFM cars from stalling with atmo venting bovs. You can't have the best of both sides. Either you have your cool sounds and stall.. or put a plumback back (standard or aftermarket) and have good performance, cleaner plugs and rear bumper and some little sound. You can have your flutter and not stall, but this is going to require a new ECU which has a MAP sensor instead of the AFM that your car has now. But can you justify $2000 for something like a Haltech or some other known brand just for a sound?

dj984. tighten your bov. it has arrows on top for loose and tight. but basically, it is like any other screw. clockwise tightens anti-clockwise loosens. you want it to flutter at even higher rpm's then you need it tighter. Or remove it completely.. You want flames.. replace your cat with a stright pipe, run no bov or external venting only bov. that should give you a really flamey, really shitty running car.. But it will look and sound good so that makes up for it going like a nugget.

RB25 turbo is a direct bolt on to the Silver top (r32) RB20det. Just make sure that when you get the rb25 turbo, you also get the intercooler ELBOW pipe that is bolted to the turbo. the rb20 one is slightly smaller and the bolts don't line up. if you are unsure about the pipe I mean, it is the one that is bolted directly yo the turbo, and it is where the intercooler pipes start on the turbo side.

either way will work just fine. if you disconnect the stock one, then it won't work but the new one will. if you want them both working, use a "T" peice.

the standard boost guage is not in PSI if you look real close, you will see that it measures in HG/100mm or something like that. Basiaclly, if your stock guage is hitting 7, you are running about 14-15 psi.. Get a boost guage that shows PSI and T it in to the stock boost guage line in the engine bay. Go for a drive and get the true PSI reading..

R33's run 7psi stock. the R32 gtst turbo runs 10psi standard. the wasetgate acutator spring is set to that. If your one is running 7 in standard form, then there is a problem.

5 litre eater. RB20DET runs 10psi stock from the factory.. you can go to 12 psi no probs ont he standard cooler. as for 14psi, sure you can run that, but the risk you take is yours. there are a couple of guys here who have run up to 16 on the standard turbo for years without probs. there are others who have killed there turbo at 12psi after a few runs..

I personally agree that the stock bov is better than external venting bov. PERSONAL OPINION... but please explain to me how the HELL, does your BOV make you shift gears faster? it has nothing to do with gearbox,clutch or anything that would make a gear shift quicker... I think that this is in your head to be honest..

flames? I'm guessing no cat??

true.. but one bad thing about atmo venting is that it is defectable.. stock doesn't have that prob.. I personally don't see the need for an aftermarket ATMO bov at all. aside from sound, it does nothing good. Aftermarket plumback would be usefull, if your stock one was not working or could no longer handle the amount of air it had to dump due to the XXX kw that you are now making...

The lag im talkiing about is related to the acceleration (over fueling). But you still have quicker gear changes. This makes no sense at all.. how do you have LAG, but quicker gear changes? are you saying that the bov is helping you SHIFT quicker? I mean honestly.. Look at ROB77's list of goodies, and running the stock bov still.. why bother changing? there is a mod you can do to the stock bov that helps it hold boost better too and it's free.. Do a search for "stock bov mod"

Mase. When you install the valve, get yourself some NEW rubber hoses and try it like that rather than cutting the standard hose and puting it in there.. basically, don't use the standard wastegate hose at all. get new hoses. I did this and it worked fine for mine.

definitely spark plug gap. If you do a search, this has come up countless times. and 99% of the time, the spark plug gap is the issue. if you haven't already changed them, get yourself a set of copper plugs ($4 each) gapp them to 0.8mm (if they are not already gapped to that) and your probs are solved.

Search for an R32 GTST with the RB25det engine.. I've owned an R32 GTST, driven a few R33 GTST's and been around in an R32 GTST with RB25det and I have to say that it is a whole new car. The instant torque and lighter car = perfect combo.

I am not going to put my opinion on if flutter is bad or not.. But I will tell you how to fix the slow spool up. I am guessing that what you did was simply take the vacuum hose on the top of the bov off and block off both sides.. this is not enough. you need to take the bov off the pipe (2 bolts) and completely block off that hole under it so that NO air goes to the bov at all. then you will have your flutter and FAST spool up when accelerating.

you have rebuilt GTR turbo's with CERAMIC exhaust wheels? why?

the main cause is SHAFT speed. if you increase boost, you get more power. this is cause the turbo has to spin faster to produce this. That is the cause of the DISTRUCTION of the EPOXY (glue) that holds the ceramic exhaust wheel to the shaft. If you are looking at using the GTR turbo's on your rb25det, you should be able to run 1.1 bar. this is because you have a total of 1.1bar of boost in the plenum, BUT, this is created from 2 identical turbos which are working hard enough to create 0.55bar boost each. Yes they are smaller than the rb25det turbo, but that sort of boost is capable from those turbos.

Bretto. you talking about the RB20 injectors or the RB25 injectors? Either way, make an offer and remember to include about $10 for postage.

read the original post. there are 2 things with firm prices.. the cooler and the radiator fan clutch. everything else is flexible.. besides, $150 for a cooler from a 230kw supra is pretty decent. check some supra forums to see what they sell for.

Intercooler is $150

UPDATE: Rocker covers and spark plug cover gone Coil packs MIGHT be gone (Not definite yet) The pod is some jap one. No brand on it. Looks like the same material and style as a K&N brand. It is in perfect condition. Price... lets say $50 The fuel pump is a standard R32 GTST fuel pump. It was on my car and working fine until I took it off at 85,000kms... I replaced it with a GTR fuel pump cause I had an R33 turbo put on at about the same time. Considering the GTR fuel pump is worth about $200, I will sell my GTST fuel pump for $70.. I think that's fair.

Hey Was. No it is not the one that you are thinking of. those are from the older MK3 supras. the one I have is from the MK4 (2JZGTE) twin turbo 3L supra. and NO, it will not fit in the standrd R32 GTST intercooler location, otherwise I would have used it.. that was the reason I bought it in the first place for $250. The other thing is that this cooler is 13cm thick Has no leaks. Entry is on the top and exit is on the side. If you plan on mounting it a little more to the front, you could fit it.. but would require some work. It might fit an R33 ... not sure.. Pics can be found at.. http://www.pbase.com/gtst/for_sale

SOLD

**** SOLD. **** Someone please delete..

Obvious: RB20DET 6 cylinder, 24 valve 2L RWD 5 speed manual Exterior: R33 wheels NO rear spoiler Interior: Autometer Phantom boost gauge Razo: turbo timer gear knob pedals JVC cd player Sony Xplode 6 inch rear speakers Engine: R33 (series I) turbo 3" custom turbo back exhaust (including dump pipe, CAT, resonator and muffler - all 3 inch) TurboXS bleed valve (13psi) TRUST panel filter in standard box ARC Side mounted intercooler Brake booster Brace Polished Rocker covers Strut Brace - Front and Rear GTR fuel pump All the little things: 100,000km service done at 93,000kms (I have a $1800 receipt for that) reason for the high cost is a few extra things I did. *All new polyurethane bushes.. Upper and lower front and rear bushes. Not cheap at all. *New 2 core radiator *Redline gearbox oil *DOT 4 brake fluid *new diff oil *new clutch fluid *New engine mount Along with new timing belt, water pump, radiator hoses, other belts, spark plugs, injector clean, fuel filter, oil, oil filter.... the list goes on.. Car is currently at 98,000kms Interior is pretty damn good. Exterior is pretty good for original paint except where I was badged and the drivers door has a few chips... Tyres are 235's on the back and 225's on the front (look a little chunky on the standard R33 rims but they grip really well) Currently has 153rwkw. a re-mapped chip should bring it to about 170rwkw and cost you about $200. I might still do that if it doesn't sell. All recent pics can be found at http://www.pbase.com/the_r32/inbox I will NOT separate anything. I will NOT swap for anything... $16,500. - NEGOTIABLE Sydney Only.