TTT

don't know... somewhere close to $200

yep. the head was sold and had one burnt valve which was the reason for the LOW compression on that cylinder. Bottom end with pistons all look good.

MRPREZ. I have an RB20 turbo if you can't get one from MEGGALA.. I'm in sydney too. I also have a complete RB20 Bottom end. let me know if you are interested.

Keep it dude.. your one will fail again. I guarantee it.. you may have lubed it but it's the clutch thing on the inside which you can't get to that fails eventually.

yes. through the web site

when you order I think it asks your car model and details. then they know what to send you. No the GTR tacho is not the same as the GTS4 so it won't match up. it would end up showing that your car was idling at 3500rpm or something.. hahahahahaha

Hey. Can you please send me a PM or an email with your name and contact number? my email is [email protected] My friend is pretty interested. thanks.

One other thing people tend to forget is the transfer case. I've seen a few GTR's who dump the clutch and the rear end ONLY lights up..

no I don't have a fan. just the clutch. the fan will cost you next to nothing from wreckers.

Yes you ONLY need the clutch part. If you want, I can install it for you. It's pretty damn easy.. let me know how you go.

pretty much. bit more to do than that. there is the light boards for the blue lighting and so on but there is no calibration required.

so the RB20 and RB25 fuel pumps are both 135Lhour? surely not..

any mechanic can do those sort of things above. Bigger turbo for $1000... I don't know. I just got an RB25 turbo and put that on mine and I'm happy enough with it. If you were to pay about $2000, then you could either get yours rebuilt or get a new ball bearing GT28 of some sort which should support about 350hp. If you don't have a regular mechanic, then all I can recommend is my one. He has already done my 100,000km service. But I changed alot more than what I listed above.. and it cost me just under $2000. (I had to change the radiator and all the bushes..these were the main costs.)

not only that.. it's a $600 rb20 turbo..

no no.. I know the GTR pump (V spec or not) is 190L/hour.. I just wanted to know what the R33 GTST ones are...

Dan did you ever find out what the R33 gtst fuel pump flows? the RB20's are 135L/hour the rb26's are 190L/hour.. the bosch ones go from like 200 - 250 L/hour or something like that.. But I don't know what the RB25's are..

yep..

hahahahahahah.. charged for download time.. what a ***ing joke.. I wouldn't pay for the DOWNLOAD crap. if they didn't know how to do it, they should not have taken on the job.

Dan. Yes it is normal. All gtr fuel pumps are like that.. The one I just got put in is the same. at idle is is a slight hiss and as soon as you touch the accelerator, it goes in to a high psssss sound, then back to low when it gets back to idle.. it's fine.. don't worry about it..

Has this happened only since the rebuild/hiflow of the turbo? I ask because my friends RB20 with the standard turbo hilowed does the same thing. As far as I've seen/heard, it is due to the turbo compressor and exhaust wheels being a mismatch. EG. the front side of the turbo (compressor) can suck in heaps of air but the exhaust side is mismatched and is not able to expell all the air that is being pushed through it.. I'm sure that someone else can give a better explanation but that is roughly what his one is doing.. and it only happens whn on full boost higher in the revs.. I think it was BOOSTD on these forums who has played with machining the turbo to get rid of the surging.. search for threads by him.. good luck.

There is a FOR SALE section on these forums for these sort of things..

100,000km service is probably the major service that you will get for your car. Main things to change for safety are... water pump timing belt radiator hoses (if they are brittle) diff oil gearbox oil brake fluid clutch fluid power steering fluid spark plugs (if they haven't been done for over 20,000kms) BELTS (make sure the mechanic checks these properly) radiator coolant you know.. all the things that are important but hardly ever get changed... oh.. clean your Air Flow Meter too. and your air filter if it is an aftermarket one.

Play around with it.. start with Mild, go for a hoon, pull over, increase it a little bit, drive again... and so on until you get to a level where you feel it responds really well without ending up in a cloud of tyre smoke..

MADGT4. yes that is correct. they are calibrated to be accurate to that speed. But obviously you need some sort of speed cut defender for the standard computer.. as your car is limited to 180. when you buy the white face dials.. it comes in a pack. you get like 3 variations. you get the speedo and tacho, then there is a fuel, water, oil, boost, torque split and whatever the non turbo version has.. I think it's VOLTS or something.. You get all of them and use the ones that your car requires.

I still have a spare brand new one at home.. I payed $150 for it if you are interested.