TTT

Next I would say buy a boost guage and then some sort of boost controller to safely turn the boost up a little bit. ---On the cheap--- $100 for autometer boost gauge $60 for a GFB bleed valve ---money is no problem--- $200-$300 for some jap brand boost gauge. $400-$1000 for an electronic boost controller of some sort. It is comming towards summer so I wouldn't be putting the boost up too much on the standard r32 intercooler. next logical step would be intercooler. ---on the cheap--- $200-$400 for an R34 GTT intercooler (direct swap but it is almost twice as thick as the stocky. is flowing and cooling enough for 206kw in standrd form on the R34 GTT or $600-$900 GTR intercooler (plus piping to suit - maybe another $500) ---money is no problem--- $1500-$2500 for a NEW good Jap intercooler kit (with everything required to fit it..) at this point you could go turbo or fueling.. probably safe to do both close to one another.. turbo ---on the cheap--- $400-$600 for an RB25 turbo (remember to use the RB20 turbo wastegate acutator so it will run 10psi in stock form compared to the 7psi you will get from the rb25 wategate) ---money is no problem--- $???? for some high spec JAP brand capable of some magical dyno figures.. Fuel pump and computer ---on the cheap--- $100-$250 for a GTR fuel pump (it flows 195L/hour compared to R32 GTST pump which is 135L/hour) $200-$300 for a Standard ecu rechip for better fuel maps (also removes speed limit and can raise rev and boost limits) ---money is no problem--- $300-$900 for a Bosch or SARD fuel pump $1000+ for some after market complete ECU. I think that after this point, you would be looking at some serious money for cams and head work and so on. I've only listed engine mods here, there is also a whole world of suspension goodies to spend your hard earned dollars on.. WHITELINE is a good AUSSIE place to get stuff for your car. ROY from these forums has the whole package from them (and when you find the page on their website for the R32 GTST's, the pictured car is his I believe..) Other than them, JAPAN is the place to go for tested packages for these cars.. Don't forget to save some money for the 100,000km service too.. does that Essay above help?

they run but they are sort of passive. the fan always spins, but when it gets hot, the fluid in the clutch bit makes the plates grap and it turns as fast as the crank does. normally, when it's hot, you accelerate and you can hear it howl with the revs until about 4000rpm, you hear the fan sound die down.. but it still spins.. just not at the same speed as the crank.

100,000kms or thereabouts is when you should change the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, oils, fluids and hoses.. some things like diff oil, clutch fluid, brake fluid radiator hoses aer forgoten sometimes during your 5000km services that you might do. so this service tends to be more expensiev than others.. My one (at 93,000kms) cost me $1800. but I also changed the radiator, clutch fan, upper and lower, front and rear bushes (that was the most expensive part).. this is on top of all the other things I mentioned which I also did at that service.

sydneykid has extensive experience with this exact setup.. ps.. you got your hands on an R32 GTST power fc? lucky bastard.. do you know how rare they are?

the fan always spins. the skylines have what they call CLUTCH fans. it should spin faster with the revs when it gets hot. It is normal for them to seize up. You can get a scond hand one from the wreckers for $50 or a brand new one for $150 (these prices are for the clutch part only) when asking for it, you need to ask for a VL commodore one. they are identical. Thermo fans are the other option but it requires some fiddling to get them fitted properly over your radiator and connect up a thermostat and so on. There are only 4 bolts to take off to remove the the whole fan assembly off your water pump. then another 4 bolts (I think) to take the fan off the clutch.

I'm pretty sure that it controls how quick the boost comes on.. as in how much wastegate creep there is. EG. If your boost is set to 15 psi, normally, your wastegate starts to open before that to make the boost come on in a controlled and smooth manner and by 15psi, the wastegate is open and only allowing 15psi to be produced by the turbo. If your controller is set to SHARP, then the wastegate will not open at all until something like 13 psi. so up till then, all the exhaust gasses are going through the turbo and the boost comes on really strong. It's not a smooth boost delivery, it is more like a huge rush to the set boost limit.. In a rear wheel drive car, setting it to SHARP is probably not the best option cause it's just goign to fry the rear wheels. in a 4wd car.. That could be fun..

the ones they desinged are only to 240. for anything higher, the whole thing needs to be recalibrated and that makes the cost alot more.. so the answer is NO. You can't retain the 320

18 more? aahhh crap...

Boost junky... I'll take that as a joke.. one other thing.. "SIC TE LAN!!!." ??? The land of goat sphincter rings? or hang around with some? and you spelt it wrong..!! hahahaha

great motors.. my neighbour has one in his GEM coupe (yes I know...shocking..) anyway, still no intercooler, 18psi, microtech, hiflow... 12.6 quarter with very little traction... doesn't use it much though..

friend has an 84 or 85 DR30. FJ20det FMIC OIL COOLER whiteline suspension goodies rebuilt/hiflowed turbo 550cc injectors RB20det gearbox LINK ECU 15psi 190rwkw few more goodies but I can't remember..

yeh I'm one of the first lot still waiting..

another option is to get your standard computer re-chipped for like $200. for about $1000 you could get about 170rwkw. Panel filter for standard air box. - $100 rb25 turbo - $500 bleed valve - $60 rechip computer - $200 gtr fuel pump - $200 that should be about $1000 and give you a reliable 170rwkw from your RB20. After that, the next thing should be an intercooler. It's almost summer and the stocky one is a little small for that sort of power. A GTR intercooler is now worth about $600. piping say another $400..

That pic is BOOSTMIESTER's old car. If I remember correctly, he had well over 200rwkw from the RB20.

yep. Toshi on these forums will sell you an already chipped R32 gtst ecu for about $300 or put one of his chips in your ecu for under $200. I should be doing it next month.

rb25 turbo = $500 gaskets = $20 bleed valve = $60 GTR fuel pump = $200 rechipped R32 ECU = $300 Dyno time = $100 About a grand and you'd get about 170rwkw at 1 BAR (about 15psi) or there abouts depending on dyno and so on. but the car will feel like a totally different car.

your "society"? there is more to life than skylines you know.... Dude. If anything, more turbo variants, the better.. there is nothing wrong with more choices of performance cars to choose from.. And you go on about V8 drivers challenging V6 turbo's.. First of all, skylines have Straight 6's, and FORD has made a STRAIGHT 6 TURBO not a v8 turbo. and the ATSRA is a 4 cylinder turbo like many other 4 cylinder turbos.. 200sx, wrx etc... and this is really sickening to you? you've got issues dude... do other turbo cars make you feel insecure or something? and how old are you if you don't mind me asking? about 18 would be my guess.

don't be so narrow minded.. have you driven either of those cars? how is that ruining the car industry?

Panel filter will be best for everyday use. If you weere on a track, I could see how the pod would be better. But a aftermarket panel filter is much better in every day use. I've done tests with a temp probe and believe me when I say get the panel filter. your standard air box already has a cold air feed to it. it is already enclosed completely from engine bay heat. put a free flowing filter in there and you're set. why waste money on a more expensive filter (pod) then even more money trying to construct some sort of partition or box to keet the engine heat out, and then even more money and time trying to make some osrt of duct to get air in to this box you made.. for what? 0.5 kw? useless.. Panel filter is the way to go.

had one. removed it. still have the motors for anyone that wants them..

If the WRX driver doesn't get a PROPER 4WD launch on a skyline GTST, then I think that the GTST will start to pull away. But if the WRX driver was willing to risk gearbox damage and launched the thing like it is capable of doing, skyline GTST's don't stand a chance. they are 2 very different cars. but stock for stock and identical mods for both in terms of a pod filter and 3 inch exhaust, the wrx will always win if launched properly.. but you will find that 99% of the time, the REX owner is not willing to risk a couple of thousand dollar Gearbox rebuild to prove a point on the street. Another thing... stock for stock, I'd like to see these cars enter some corners and we'll and we'll see how far ahead the WRX gets.

there has been alot of discussion on this S15 turbo lately. Everyone thought that they were ball bearing turbo's on the S15, but recently there have been a few revelations. a whole heap of people that have taken the turbo off there S15 have sent it to be checked and/or rebuilt and have been told that they were NOT ball bearing turbo's. And actually have the same part number as the Turbo's from the SERIES 1 S14's. apparently there are 2 different S15 turbo's and the other variant IS ball bearing. Also, I believe that the S15 has some form of Variable timing control where as the S14's don't. AND, the S15 runs 480cc injectors. The S14's have some lower capacity ones. So to answer your question of will and S15 turbo make your S15 better?? MAYBE!.. But I don't think it would be THAT much of a difference.. If I were in your situation, I would save some money and do 1 of 2 things... 1.)Have your turbo rebuilt and Hi-flowed. 2.)Buy a new 450HP turbo from www.horsepowerinabox.com for like $2000..

hahahahaha what a load of shit... your fully sic cuz got 60rwkw from a change in ECU? on a stock turbo with stock fuel system? on an RB20? pfft.. Get your hand of it mate..!!!

get the basics first. you've done exhaust and filter. time for cooler and computer and boost. then when you get bored of that, you can post a new topic saying... next mod: only 180rwkw.

exhaust, filter, intercooler, 10psi boost, spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm and Power FC is usually equal to just over 180rwkw on the R33's. whatever you're missing from the above, go get that..