TTT

hi. I have an RB20. I run copper plugs. Mine have been going for about 15,000kms so far and no problem. I run 13 psi through an RB25 turbo and there is no miss. My copper NGK plugs are gapped to 0.8mm One other thing... Copper is a better conducter of electricity than IRIDIUM or PLATINUM. I won't bother going to an expensive plug. If I have to change 2 sets of copper plugs to 1 set of platinum, then so be it. still costs me a SH1T load less and better performance..

just to help you out there.. I bought the GTR pump off this man. It works perfectly. And he was very decent on price and basically told me how it would go in. Mr T88 ON BOARD is a decent and trustworthy man to deal with. good luck with the rest of your stuff dude.

Blitz.. Ban that fool he has 10 posts and they are all probably like this.. annoying mofo

You're my hero.!! go do that instead of wasting web space here.. while you're out, go read the rules of posting on the for sale section too..

you don't have to do anything.. you do what you want. these are just people opinions. me, I swear by my panel filter. others hate them.

BAO.. the RB25 turbo is a direct bolt on to an RB20DET block. so if this came off an RB20, then everything should fit perfectly for you. when I put an RB25 turbo on my car, EVERYTHING, including oil and water lines and exhaust manifold lined up and connected perfectly. So Unless the lines were changed on his RB20 when puting this VL turbo on, it should fit fine.

You're confusing me now..hahahaha I thought that the higher the number was the hotter range.. anyway.. I can't remember.. but it is the standard heat range for the skyline. just gapped to 0.8

$12-$15 per plug for copper plugs? sweet jebus.. they are like $3 - $6 each around here..

I've got 1 range hotter than steve and gapped the same. the mods I have are.. RB25 turbo 3 inch turbo back exhaust trust PANEL filter in standard box ARC Standard intercooler replacement (fits in factory spot) 13psi works without any probs..

my mistake. still. decent number with a standard intercooler. My point was that rev210 is one of the guys int he thinking that the larger the intercooler is not really a better thing. It has to be matched to your turbo and so on. So this particular intercooler 410 x 260 x 70 made by a company like TRUST will be mroe than enough for a R32 GTS4 with a cat back exhaust as the only mod. Actually, that intercooler would be more than enough for anything the standard turbo will be able to handle.

That cooler will be just fine dude. Your standard cooler will be fine for around 12 psi through the standard turbo. Put it this way. The standard size that MOST companies make there intercoolers is 600 x 300 x 70. A standard GTR cooler is something like 600 x 270 x 70 (I think). If TRUST has decided to make a cooler that is slightly smaller for a car that is more lightly tuned, I would buy it. Actually, I would buy anything TRUST makes if I could.. send a PM to "rev210" asking about your intercooler.... He has run a 12 second pass in his R33 GTST with the standard cooler which is not that better than the R32's.. He'll set you straight.

shorty, that is about right for R33 GTST's. Both the R32 and R33 GTR runs 9psi in standard form. Not too sure about R34's.

GILTY. the thing is that the R33's don't have the line comming off the turbo housing. they have there's comming off a little further in the track - the intercooler pipe. that may be why it is a little harder to explain.

Dude.. Please confirm with GCG that this turbo has a BALL BEARING center AND that it is OK on an RB20. Last time I spoke with GCG in Sydney, the deal was that for just over $2K you give them your turbo and they rebuild it with Standard NON ball bearing center and replace the blades with T3/T4. AND they have 2 options.. 450 hp or the 500hp. AND the 500hp was not suited for the RB20... something to do with surging due to mismatch or something.. On an rb25 they were both good. But the main thing is the bearings.. If indeed they rebuilt it with BB center, then that is an awesome price.. However, I didn't think that ANYONE in Sydney had the Balancing tool required to REbuild BB centers.

this is at normal operating temps.. the gauge shows right in the middle.. what ever that is.. My thermo does not run. At the moment, it is connected to run only when the air con is on. ( I will be getting this changed soon) the radiator is a twin core and is only slightly wider and taller than standard. The only cooling fan is the Clutch FAN. I keep hearing about some sensor at the back of the Plenum. Can't remember the name or what it does or how to adjust or clean it..

I have the following. Silver top RB20DET RB25 turbo TRUST panel filter New NGK copper plugs (gapped to 0.8mm) Coils are perfect 3" turbo back exhaust. 100K km service completed with usual changes (belts and water pump etc...) However, I still have a slight pop at idle. and the revs will rise and fall up to about 200rpm, like surge between 700-900rpm. I've been in other RB20DET powered cars and I don't see that with them. What else can I check.?? The AFM is clean. There are no leaks or holes in hoses or pipes. The car revs fine. Gets to red line and runs 13psi boost no problems, no hick ups, no misses or back fires... Fuel mixtures are about 12.5:1 under full load at about 4000rpm Still running standard BOV.. It's nothing major but I'm just curious as to what else would cause a slightly rough idle... any help would be appreciated..

one other thing. My RB20 turbo was making a noise. It turned out to be the gasket between the turbo and the manifold (on the block) it seems that one of my bolts had fallen off and the heat at that corner started to burn out the gasket and eventially melt it and air was escaping through there and whining it's head off. turbo was in perfect condition. But if yours has a lot of thrust play (as in back and forth in to the turbo, not side to side), then you may have issues.. Although, a little play is normal. If it is a gasket, it will set you back less than $50 for the gaskets and who knows how much to pull the turbo off and replace the gasket.

dude.. it's quite simple.. On a stock R33 RB25 setup, there is a hose that goes from the wastegate acutator diaphram (the thing that is like a little cylinder that sits next to the tubo) to the standard boost solenoid, which in turn connects to a little nipple on the intercooler pipe near the turbo somewhere. All you need to do is connect the bleed valve in place of the standard boost solenoid. the direction is like so. From intercooler pipe, to the bleed valve, out of the bleed valve to the wastegate acutator diaphram nipple. The way it works is this. The factory computer sends a message to the factory solenoid to open the wastegate fully by "X"psi (I think it is 7psi on the R33). The solenoid does this by allowing some air pressure to go through to the diaphram. You accelerate, the boost builds up, the solenoid starts to open the wastegate. All you are doing is replacing this solenoid with the Bleed valve. so you need to disconnect the slenoid and use the hoses off it to connect the bleed valve. Make sure it goes the right way. The bleed valve should have come with directions or at least a directional arrow to show the direction of flow. Hose from Intercooler pipe goes IN to the bleed valve and the other side connects to the wastegate. Make sure that you have the valve completely open at first so that it is not boosted at all to start with. then you close it up a little and go for a drive, then adjust more as you need. If you need more help, PLEASE take it to a performance shop.

yeh man.. $2500 for a new turbo would get you a nice Ball bearing Garrett turbo. if you want a standard one, you can pick them up on these forums for about $500 or a little more at wreckers.

I'm praying that it was 12 and not 14.. that would be WAAAAY too lean. I've been told that a SAFE a:f ratio is about 11.5:1 but up to 12 is probably still safe... currently mine is at 12.5:1 and that is a little lean for my liking. I've got the GTR pump ready to go in so that should help.

On the skylines, the most helpful place to have any sort of heat extraction would be just above the radiator fan or maybe a little bit further back than that.. sort of like between cyliners 5 and 6.. actually, that is probably about where BOOSTMEISTER said..

Main queries: 1) Running costs - repairs, parts prices etc skyline cheaper.. single turbo, less weight, 2.5 instead of 3.0 engine, more of them around for parts, engine access is easy for repairs. 2) Performance - which is quicker, handles better 300zx is faster in straight line. skyline will handle better being lighter and all. 3) Mods - is one more expensive to do up than the other yes. 300zx is a V6. meaning it has 2 3cyliner blocks. each side has it's own air filter, air flow meter,turbo, intercooler, throttle body, manifold, blow off valve, exhaust. so when you want to do mods like air filter and exhaust, it costs double because you have to get 2 of each. 4) Price - what should I pay for an un-modififed version of each. 95-96 R33 skyline will be from $19K - $25K 90-92 300ZX I've seen from $15K - $30K Also, the thing that everyone knows about the 300zx is the heat issue. the engine bay is so packed out that there is NO room for air to escape really so in a 13 year old car, you are bound to have cracked or split hoses and so on. and replacing the little ones in the back of the engine is no easy job. If you do get a 300zx, make sure that the RADIATOR and all associated hoses and fans are the first things that are checked/replaced. the other thing is that MANY mechanics will simply NOT take the job for repairs on the 300ZX's... You said "I am in the market to buy either one of these and given that I will be spending my life savings I want to make the right choice. " I say, if you get the 300zx, you WILL be spending that on this car..

hey.. when you say hi flow. what exactly are the specs? who built it? did the place that built it tell you what HP the turbo is now good for? anyway, if you have the air:fuel mixtures right, then like the guys have said, up to 20 psi is probably good. I know you said you have pump and gtr injectors.. but have you had it dyno'd to see what the mixtures are like at the moment?

Most after market intercooler kits ensure that you will have to go a POD filter. so before spending money on the panel filter, make sure that the intercooler kit you are after allows the box to stay. Although, I guess you could always sell the panel filter off later. I bought a second hand TRUST panel filter for a standard air box on my R32 for $50. And you still get the sucking sound and bov sounds.. believe me..

I have 6 RB20DET ones. Find out if they are the same.. if they are, I can sell some to you.