TTT

aZn_RoMeO...... I'm sorry to say dude, but I feel sorry for your car. nothing against you... I am always one for D.I.Y, but preperation for painting is just not one that the average joe should do. I understand that you don't want a show car quality, but when you finish sanding your car, I GUARANTEE that the guy that is going to spray it is going to redo the whole thing... Honestly, you don't seem to have an idea on what to do, and I know you are trying to learn but this is going to be an EXPENSIVE lesson for you. This I promise you. Please don't take offence to my post. I am just thinking of your skyline and I think that you are going to ruin it. JAPSIX... That is one Sexy colour. Looks brilliant in the shade and I bet even better in sunlight.. well done.

the standard air box with better filter is so much better. costs next to nothing and is designed properly... not something you rig up yourself.. I'll never do a pod filter again on any car I have. there are exceptions though.. sometimes people get FMIC and the piping prevents you from using the standard air box.. this I can understand..

surely you'd be better off getting 2 rubber joins, 4 clamps and stainless steel pipe instead of that crap.

thanks all. I didn't check the FAQ section. But I did get a lot of part numbers from the RB20DET site. I think that I have all that I need. Cheers. TT

Well the way I see it, NISSAN put a CERTAIN bov on my car, believing it was required and good enough, and that is reason enough for me to leave it there. I will not REMOVE or REPLACE with aftermarket.

thanks for that tip.. anyone got those settings/measurements?

dude. the skylines you hear making a fluttering with the stock bov means that the bovs are blocked of either under the bov or in the return pipe where you can't see it. and so the sound you hear is just compressor surge as air goes back through the turbo. VL Turbo's DON'T have bovs as standard and as soon as you put a pod filter on them, you can hear them fluttering away on gear changes or throttle off... the sound all depends on the turbo blade and type of piping from the turbo to the filter.. if the turbo blades a more further apart, you will get like a slow flutter.. like ch ch ch ch ch if the blade design is different, the flutter will be more of a ft t t t t t t... you get me? and the loudness of the sound depends on the piping from the turbo to the filter... because this is what makes it louder or quieter depending on the material it is made of.. like if it is the standard rubber item, it won't be as loud as if it were made from a LARGER diameter stainless steel pipe.. You will be dissapointed when you waste your money on the APEXI bov as the flutter sound will not change at all. the bov should simply make a psshhh sound of some sort.. not a fluttering sound.

Just trying to get some details for a few things I need for this 100K service. Car is a 92 R32 GTST I need info on the following.. Timing Belt part number and rough cost and where to get. Gearbox Oil Red Line shockproof stuff.. (the blue stuff) where to get and cost.. and what is the weight or whatever it's called that describes it's vicosity (if that is a word) Diff Oil what do I need? cost? amount? where? Fuel Filter part number? There were a few other things I wanted but I got the details for them from MEGGALA's site.. but I couldn't find these ones.. thank you all. TT

3 weeks old. bought it and it wasn't what I thought it was. took it back t the store and they told me they only have a 1 week exchange policy. purchased for $99.95 sell for $65 Sydney only. will consider swap for "Splinter cell" or "Medal of Honor"

Pics of the RIMS to me as well please.. [email protected] cheers.

I still wouldn't have got it.. hahahahaha

the R32 and R33 return lines are different. I have the R33 ones if you want.. I'm in sydney yes the bov has a misterbishi symbol. they are made by them.

wouldn't that be maintenance rather than performance mod?

you can't change the spring in the stock bov. no they are not rebuildable. and I've had enough on this thread. too many bov questions and so on. all the info I give is enough... just leave the damn thing alone. if you really want, you can do the stock bov mod that I did and am very happy with... do a search in this section on "bov mod" TT

1.) I was the one that said the BOSCH bov had to be plumbed back, but I was obviously talking in a SKYLINE run AFM. on a car with a MAP setup, you can have the BOSCH vent to atmo. but "YES, the BOSCH bovs also stay open at idle. 2.)WALKOAU - I'm glad you found the blockage.. I have to say, I have no idea how the hell you were able to get a door stop out from near the "S" bend in the return line without cutting the thing open or at least punching the wall a few times due to being so annoyed. 3.)QIKR33.. doing what you said "remove vacuum line...etc..." will not work too well. you will hear a slight flutter but you will find that your car will not run more than 5psi boost. this is because when you start boosting in your car (in normal setup) the boost pressure builds up in the pipe below the bov and the vacuum line (while boosting) also has positive pressure pushing the bov piston down, so the bov will stay shut. when you back off (to change gears), the pressure in the manifold (and so the vacuum line of the bov) turns to vacuum and sucks the piston up and the pressure in the pipes under the bov PUSHES the bov piston up and it "BLOWS OFF" Now, if you simply take the vacuum line off and block it, when boosting, there is enough pressure in the pipes below to push the piston up and the bov will leak anything over 5psi, because there is no pressure above the bov in the vacuum line.. hope this helps. I don't recommend it, but for those who want the fluttering noise, then just take the bov off, sit it down on a piece of sheet metal, draw the outline of the base, cut it out, drill the holes for the 2 bolts, then put that under the bov so that it is basically blocked off at the pipes. then sit the bov on top, bolt it all up and it all looks stock but it will flutter everytime you back off the loud pedal.. like I said, I DON'T RECOMMEND THIS!!!

I can answer that for ya.. An RB25 turbo has the following on the compressor cover. 45V4 I bought one myself, got it put on, runing 13psi... I think that it's a great upgrade. good luck

shit that's right.. hahahaha I forgot about that. I always see the logo on it too. duuh!! either way, better option than any aftermarket one.

the whole story is that when I bought my car, it had an atmo SARD R2D2 bov on it. so the return was already blocked off. when I changed it to the original bov I thought I would test it venting to atmo to see how it sounded/went.. so that's when I saw that it stays open at idle.

I took the return line off one time to see what it looks like when the car is on. well the car spat, splutered, ran rich and so on, but for like half a minute that I ran it like that, I can see that it was open and recirculating.. you could see the piston is up and you could feel the air coming out of it.. it's normal. the BOSCH bov is the came.

you can also make a mod to the standard skyline bovs and the car comes on boost quicker and the bov sound changes a little.. instead of just a whooshh it sort of like a "ka tssss" sound.. I hate trying to "type" SOUNDS.

ok. the standard bov on a skyline or 200sx or whatever, at idle, it is open and recirculating air. when you start to accelerate, the bov closes and then releases immediately when you back off or change gears. the aftermarket ones that vent to atmosphere, have to stay shit at idle. so people have to tighten it up and they often tighten it up a little more "JUST TO BE SURE" (classic). so when driving and say you boost up to 5 psi and change gears, the bov doesn't open when you release because.. 1.) the bov is too tight. 2.) the aftermarket bov springs are tighter than stock. 3.) the bov piston is bigger/heavier and is not as quick to move as the stocky. so what happens?, the air goes back through the turbo going f ch ch ch ch ch ch or a similar sound (depends on turbo and so on) however, say you had the same car boost to 8psi and change gears, the bov opens but really that much and the air gets out of the bov and goes "psshh" or "squeek" as the HKS SSQV one does, but then shuts the piston down quickly due to it's tightness, so you end up hearing a sound like psshhht ch ch ch ch to be honest with you, I love the sound of a 180sx or 200sx which has had the bov removed completely and the holes blocked off. sounds like a pigeon or something.. but then again, my car came with a bov, it's not leaking, it's doing it's job and sounds ok and makes my car run better so I will continue using it.. does this all make sense or am I blabbering again?

I read about this company that spent milions on research and development on their Products. the bovs that they make can handle up to 17psi without any probs, and you can also make a slight mod to the bov to hold more boost. the company is called NISSAN. the bovs can be picked up second hand for like $30. you can't go wrong..

what does the RB engine weigh? the SR apprently weighs 189kg.

the torque thing is a bit misguided. YES the SR20DET makes more torque than the RB20DET. SR = 155kw@6000rpm and 275NM@4000rpm at 8psi boost (ROUGH numbers) RB = 158kw@6200rpm and 263NM@3200rpm at 8-9psi boost (rough numbers again) the RB makes like 10NM less but at 800rpm earlier. so whish engine is actually the more TORQUEY engine? the one that has a little more torque or the one that pulls from lower revs? hope this adds to the discussion.

to add a little fuel to the fire.. On sunday I took my pod filter off and put on my standard air box with a TRUST panel filter. I had a temp probe in the pod filter (which had a partition to stop some engine heat coming to it) so I could monitor temps. AT BEST (on a 10 degree night) the pod filter would come down to about 15 degrees when traveling like 80km/h normal driving on a 15 degree day would see the pod filter temp sit at about 30 degrees. With the standard air box (which also now has the temp probe plumbed in), on sunday at about 18 degrees, the air box showed 21 degrees. the highest I saw on sunday while looking for parking for 15 minutes was 38 degrees on a 18 degree day. same sort of thing with the pod filter use to show over 45 degrees. while driving, it feels a little better at low revs and can still rev to red line without strugling. this morning on the way to work, the car AMB temp button showed me that it was 7 degrees outside. the temp in the air box was also 7 degrees. I have never seen such results with the pod filter.. even though it had a CAI to it. I can't recommend the standard air box enough.... there is no way I will go back to the pod... TT