TTT

Regarding the Brakes on the GTS4.. The GTST type M also comes with 4 pot calipers and ABS. Dude.. Read these 2 articles, then decide for yourself.. GTS4 GTST Then decide for yourself. Every person on here is going to say get this or get that because that's what they have.. this includes me. But read up on both machines and choose for yourself after driving both. IF you can find a GTS4... It's pretty hard to come by one of those and when you consider that for the price that people are asking for a 90 model GTS4, you could get like a 94 R33, it's hard to go past the R32 GTST (my opinion once again..) Good luck in your search..

Oh well. Thanks anyway.

Mr Exa. When you get the microtech installed and tuned, are you looking at getting rid of the Veilside ECU? what is it worth? What shops can tune it?

Steve R32.. That's normal man.. When I got my car it only had a Pod filter as a mod and my autometer boost guage showed 10psi.. Now I got a front mount and it is still the same.. Once I get the exhaust done, I am expecting that the boost will go up 1 - 2 psi..

I've got a set of 6 RB25DET injectors and fuel rail aswell. Let me know if you are interested.

that's terrible...!!! and those wheels..?!?!?!? YUCK.. It looks like something out of those american mini truck things.. with those gay chrome rims.

I may be biased but I would definitly recommend the GTST. They are lighter and you have a greatly balanced car. Just keep in mind that, YES, you do get better launches with the GTS4 but I am sure that the GTST would catch and pass it down a quarter.. also, there is more to life than quarter mile runs.. I think that the RWD/front engine design is still the best and has the best balance.

How can you do this to a perfectly good R32.. boooo BOOOOOO!!!! Sacrilege

mr180.. I have a set of 6, 370cc, side feed, high impedance injectors. interested?

yeh.. I just couldn't be bothered.. I don't want that much out of my car anyway.. I haven't even done the exhaust yet..

didn't bother after I read through your site. I had already bought a whole box full of stuff and these were in there too.

Hi all. I've got a set of standard injectors for an RB25DET for sale. I also have the complete fuel rail with the fuel pressure regulating thing.. (I think that's what it is) Not quite sure how much they are worth but The specs of the injectors can be found on Meggala's web page (thanks Meggala).. Injector Specs RB25DET uses side feed high impedance injectors 370cc these are the same as the SR20DET. Not sure how much to expect so lets see some offers.

Ben. It's good to see that you took my advice and joined these forums. You won't find too many cons when jumping from the lancer to a R33 skyline. The R33 is very common now but that is simply because it is such a good car. It's got power, style, comfort... all for close to $20K.. There is not much that can offer that. The R32 is not really that much older than the series 1 R33's. And I don't know how the R32 has a square back.. The R31 DOES have a square back, but the R32 is a little rounded.. The difference between the Series 1 and 2 in the R33 range is some interior changes, some front bar changes. The turbo chargers in the skylines have Ceramic exhaust blades. This is the reason why people always recommend that you don't boost them up more than 12-13 psi.. Excess shaft speed causes the ceramic exhaust wheel to detach from the shaft and go for a run down your exhaust pipe... The turbo in the Series 2 is the same but I have been told that they also have a PLASTIC Compressor wheel (the front of the turbo). the series 1's have a steel compressor wheel. I'm pretty sure that you will be VERY happy going with a skyline. I don't know your driving history/experience, but please keep in mind that going from a 80kw front wheel drive lancer to a 185kw HEAVY rear wheel drive turbo skyline... there is a big difference.. Please make sure you get used to the car first before giving it too much stick.. ESPECIALLY IN THE WET... It's not as easy to control as front wheel torque steer.. There is plenty of room for power upgrades in the turbo skylines... As for defects.. cops will look for a few things straight away.. exposed pod filters, BOVs, loud exhausts. and ride hight and so on if it looks lowered. if you want mods, get a better filter for the box, make some cold air induction pipes, get a CAT back exhaust, front mount cooler, bit more boost, some sway bars a slightly lowered springs and you'll never get hassled and will leave most of the FFF guys staring at your beautiful rear lights..

Don't worry guys.. An abusive email has already been sent to the man to fix it. hahahaha I wonder what his reply will be.. I'd laugh if he tried to start an arguement about how it is a RB25 and a V6..

Well there you go GERD. Your choice mate.

it will reduce it but it won't eliminate it. Look at it like this. The old config (with the standard air box) you have a complately sealed (almost water proof) air box and a filter in it which flows OK but not very freely. then after all of that, there is a whole host of piping that is used for cold air. You have removed all of that and added a large free flowing pod. So the induction sound is going to be much more. When you accelerate, you will hear the air being sucked through the turbo and when you change gears, it will make a whosh noise that you didn't hear before cause it was so muffled. I don't think that puting a box around the filter will eliminate it. It might reduce it but I doubt it would eliminate it.

Almost true. Only incorrect part of that is that the SPIN BACKWARDS bit. The turbo will not spin backwards. that sound is not the turbo spinning backwards. It's the air getting chopped up by the turbo as it goes back through it. A turbo blade will spin at over 100,000rpm easily. There is no way that air can make that stop and go the other way. If you look at the blades of the turbo, they are on a slight angle. As it spins, it causes the air to get sucked in in a swirling manner.. this causes a whistling sound as the air is sucked in. Because the blades are on a certain angle to suck air in, when the air tries to go back out through the same gap, it gets chopped by the turbo blades. This is sort of like blowing air on to the back of a fan. It makes a frrrrrrr sort of sound. But because between gear changes the turbo slows down a little until you hit the go pedal again, the frrrr sound is in slightly slower motion so it goes.. fffch ch ch ch (or what ever fluttering sounds like) This compressed air trying to get out of the turbo blade will slow the turbo down more than if it hadn't gone through and this is why the theory is that it will cause premature death to your turbo, cause it is sort of like puting the brakes on rather than letting it slow down naturally, when the thing is spining up at 100,000 rpm.. ok?

my battery died about 2 weeks ago. I replaced it with a Century heavy duty battery. $90 fitted. 2 years warranty

Box head I know what you mean. On the R32's the GTR and GTST have slightly different headlights. The actual headlight unit is the same but the internal globes are different. The GTR has a light like this.. Lets look at a car front on and look towards our left which would be the cars RIGHT head light cause it is facing us. From left to right... indicator, park light, normal driving lights (low beam - the round globe), high beam (square light) Where as the GTST's go... indicator, park light, high beam (square light), normal driving lights (low beam - the round globe). Get it?.. the round globe and the high beam globe are swapped around.. Now that wasn't so hard was it?

The rears don't turn as much as the front. It is a very tiny amount.. It is almost impossible to see but when you drive and turn a corner or change lanes on the road, you sort of feel like it floats .... very unsettling when you first drive a car with HICAS. The old Honda Preludes had 4WS but the rears on those turned heaps.. HICAS (on the R32 skyline is the only one that I can say cause that's what I have) is different.. it is not as noticible.

The hose on top is for vacuum. when you get an aftermarket bov, when you plumb it in, you need to adjust it so that it is closed during idle. During idle, there is a certain amount of vacuum in the manifold.. (for this example lets say 10 units - whatever it is measured in) when you accelerate to get boost and release the accelerator, there is more vacuum (say 15units). This extra vacuum along with the compressed air that is in the pipework just below the bov will open up the bov and make it vent with a big psshhh.. When you don't connect that vacuum line, the BOV doesn't open and the air goes back out through the turbo blades getting chopped up by the blades causing the fluttering sound.. I hope this helps.

4ws (4 wheel steering.) But it's a little different. I think that below 60 or 80KM/h the, when you turn the steering wheel to the left, the rear wheels go in the opposite direction. Above that speed (say like on a motor way) the rear wheels turn in the same direction as the fronts.

If you disconnect the BOV, you will get a constant fluttering sound.. Sounds sort of like fffrrrrrrrrr sort of sound. As you have read in the post earlier, this sound is not goot for the turbo in the long run. if you don't like the low rpm whoosh, then you will have to remove that noce air filter pod you put on and put in the original one which keeps quiet.

interesting.. how much rego is left on the car?

OK. Thanks.