TTT

he's making 210rwkw. by paying to have it plumbed in to the existing exhaust he won't lose too much if any power at all... espcially if he is only running 1 bar of boost. agreed though.. it looks really badly put together.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348798-10-track-days-drifiting-from-noob-to-less-noob/

stock bov goes to the very far left pipe in this pic.. That image is a stock R32/R33 GTST intake pipe with all the EGR and BOV return pipes intact. I assume yours is still there and just blocked off.

why did they do a dyno run in 2nd gear?

.

Welcome. Nudes?

I removed this from my R32 GTST. Once fitted up, it seals up pretty much against the headlight and boxes the filter in - not exactly as in that photo... that was just to show all the bits together. $50 or swap for stock R32 GTST air box. Northern Suburbs

pretty

pfft.. well f**k that then

Sold

Sold

Lol

I've got one on my R32 GTST and thinking of a few changes to the front which would mean a change to the cooler.

Adrians car is for sale you know. $30K

Just so you know - seal-up is not like chemiweld in terms of clogging up water galleries etc.

keep RB26/30 Sell me L98 for $600 profit

if it's oil in the exhaust, it will eventually burn off... but that smoke has a blue tinge to it. if it's white and is more like steam (ie it dissapears quickly once out of the car) then it's coolant/water being burnt off. I'd suggest by checking the coolant level, then going for a drive and keeping an eye on the temp. say 40 minutes or so. if it's left over oil in the exhaust, it will have burnt it off by then. if it's coolant/water, it will keep doing it. once it's cooled down, check the coolant level in the radiator again. if it's less, then theres your problem. ***Opinion below*** Here's the thing right. RB20 is not worth rebuilding. therefore, it's not worth pulling the head off. it's also no worth putting an RB20 back in if you are removing the engine. so, here is what I did. 10L of distilled water. 1 bottle of Car-go Seal-up Drop all the coolant in the radiator (instructions are available on this forum) fill radiator with tap water - go for drive till operating temp let it cool down drop the water again Fill with distilled water. bleed system off (instructions on this forum) top up as required. Shake up bottle of seal-up put it in the radiator. cap on drive for 40 minutes (personally I left it in there) If it was steam out the exhaust (white) then it will dissapear within those 40 minutes. when you have time, dump the distilled water and seal-up stuff fill with nulon coolant and bleed as per normal. problem fixed (probably temporarily) In the end, you will eventually fork out for an RB25 or greater conversion. It's been just over 700kms for me so far. I'm about to dump the radiator stuff out of mine over this holiday period and put new coolant in. I know it seems like a long process, but it's piss easy. /myopinion

listed here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_(E36) only ones worth keeping are from 325, 328 and M3 versions (3L and 3.2L)

google auto body tape

you mean the zero off the end.. origial ones were $22 to start with. now gen 2 is $40 delivered but if your one comes connected to an RB26 then fair enough.

head gasket. there are proper fixes and cheap fixes.

lol what?

the link I posted on page 2 of the E30 with the 2J. JZK25 is guy that did the conversion and will have all the sources for the wiring mate. or know where to get it. Also, there is a guy on that forum who put an LS1 in to an E36 325is body and I'm sure he will also have wiring info - Turbo351 is his user id I think. just join and ask them. PS - brake booster will/might be an issue with the straight 6.

Nick - good work man nice lifting.

Thanks for that. 666DANs PM's aren't working so I'm hoping he'll stumble in here