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Hi all, I urgently need a pair of front brake rotors for 93 R33 GTST They must be legal (minimum 30mm thick) who has a set and how much.. QUICK QUICK please *waves money at screen* Please PM me or leave your price and contact details here.. thanks.

Item: HKS Cat back exhaust for R33 GTST Location: Brisbane North Website: none Item Condition: used Reason for Selling: back to stock Price and Payment Conditions: $250 Extra Info: Stainless muffler, mild steel pipes. Pictures: below Contact Details: PM

Once you've done it, I'll give you $20 for the shitty stock cooler. help keep your garage clean..

If you want to move fast or have more power, I think it's obvious why more habibs would make this happen. ECU needs to know how many habibs (air) are coming in da club so that it can get the spark plugs (chicks) and fuel (had in the shape of a gun) and then??? CHK CHK BOOM!!! everyone should be happy now.

finally got one. $50 thanks. Will have my 3 inch cat back cleaned up and for sale soon.

some S15's came stock with a ball bearing version, others got the same one that is on the S14. they are steel wheeled so can be boosted higher. anything over 17psi is just blowing hot air though. An S15 with stock turbo, along with the usual supporting mods on 17-18psi will make almost bang on 200rwkw. the factory T28 off a GTiR is slightly better in that it can flow more. but the ball bearing one off an S15 is the pick of the bunch. having said all that, it won't bolt on to a skyline and would not make the power that an SR makes.

it may not be the afm wiring but the actual internal pins of the afm which need soldering. your car lifted off the ground then landed? that would be enough of a jolt to crack solder joints on an old AFM. search these forums for SOLDER+AFM to see the DIY on how to fix it. when mine started playing up, the symptoms were. 1.) idle go from 300 to 2000, then back, then up, then back etc. 2.) and when I get it to drive, it would not boost or go over 2000rpm.

where are you located? I'm in brisbane and looking to go back to stock. I'll happily trade my 3 inch cat back system for a stocker. my car is a coupe

R&R = Rich and Retard (kinda like Paris Hilton but with less skank) the standard R33 ECU will modify the air:fuel mixture by making it run rich and retard the timing when it senses something outside it's expected parameters. quick lesson. air goes in through the air filter, goes past the AFM (air Flow Meter) which sends a message to the ECU saying "Hey bro.. there is 12 air habibs coming your way" ECU goes "No worries bro.. I'll douse them with 2 bits of fuel and burn the f**kers" the air (habibs) go through the turbo and get all hot and angry like a bunch of lebs that just did 14 sets of bicep curls in a power cage, then through the intercooler to coll off a little, then in to the motor where they think they are entering a hektik nightclub only to be doused in fuel and burnt and spat out the back of the turbo and out the exhaust. so.. The AFM (lets say is a Kiwi bouncer.. you know.. tough, but can't really count much) can only measure up to a certain number or air. when you use a boost controller (lets say a hot chick bro), and you turn it up (reduce the length of her skirt and shrink the top), more air gets forced in to the engine (lots of habibs get calls from their cousins and they call go to this place and try to get in). The AFM can only count so much and realises that there is too much air going in so sends a message to the ECU saying "Bro.. I only counted 15 habibs but I think that another 10 of their cousins snuck in... I'm not sure hey.. I didn't learn to count that many" ECU goes "f**k you're a stupid coconut c*nt... now I have to deal with these habibs" So as the habibs make their way through the turbo and intercooler (no doubt stealing stuff along the way), and in to the motor, the ecu douses them with heaps of fuel and makes all the habibs really wet with fuel.. this means that when they are burnt off, they don't burn well and so come out as darker smoke. Because of his bad mixture (too many habibs in the one club), the ECU also retards the timing (closes the bar for a while) meaning that everything works really badly... all to protect the motor (hektik club) until the AFM (bouncer) gets his shit together and counts properly. all this means that your car will jerk as if it's hitting some sort of cut or has a fault.. but it's just your car's way of telling you there are too many habibs. How do you fix this? Cheapest = A signal bender of some sort (Apexi SAFC is probably the cheapest) this is a device which teaches the AFM how to lie to the ECU. You turn up the boost, and 30 habibs arrive and run through the entry door.. AFM goes to the ECU "Hey bro.. I've just sent through 18 business men hey.." Ecu goes "thanks mate. I'll give them the fuel needed" this means that you get a leaner mixture and it all makes more power. a better choice? after market computer.. there are lots to chose from.. do a search. the after market computer (replacement for the ECU) is fully programmable and so can adjust timing too.. it can also mean that the coconut at the door doesn't have to lie, but instead, it is send on a few special classes and is taught how to count.. Hope this helps.

Just to clarify some things that you obviously misunderstood or yourmechanic didn't explain. 1.) The ceramic that will break that he is talking about is the exhaust "WHEEL" of the turbo (the back of the turbo) 2.) your exhaust is too thin?? he is talking about the fact that you still have the stock Dump and front pipes (and probably cat). 3.) the reason stock turbo's break is usually due to heat and shaft speed (which causes the heat). If you have the stock dump pipe, it gets a ALOT hotter there when boosted over stock because it does not flow very well and causes a restriction. a restriction in front of hot exhaust gasses causes the area to heat up more.. and so the chances of breaking your "ceramic" exhaust "wheel" is higher. 4.) do you need aftermarket dump/from pipes? no.. but it will free up exhaust flow so it is a support mod for increasing the boost. 5.) do you need an aftermarket intercooler? no. the stock one will be good enough for the stock turbo and 12 psi for usual street duties (95% of your use of the car no doubt).. but if you intent to drag or circuit your car frequently, then an upgrade would be good as you will be on the throttle for longer periods and the stock cooler would get heatsoak. Your 3 inch cat back exhaust is fine. Your cat converter (probably a compliance item) is uaully really shit so look in to replacing that if/when you do the front pipes. Pod filter is not required.. get a K&N panel for the stock air box instead. what you'e going to find when you go to 11 or 12 psi or actually probably anything over 10psi is that you will get R&R problems (which will feel like a boost cut) usually around 4500rpm... so you've got other things to worry about..

your AFM has a frequency range that it can measure. it measures air flow. 14 psi = x amount of air flow. 17psi = y amount of air flow etc etc once the amount of air going through is higher than the afm's limit, the ecu gets the message that it is getting too much air and the ecu adds more fuel.. so you get that misfire as it runs rich. solution? re-map of your ECU and an Z32 AFM.

there is an airflow cut so to speak though..

no

What a load of crap. how do you figure that. the turbo is now on a car that has 500cc less capacity and 0.5:1 less compression. to produce 17 psi of air flow on the RB20 it spins at a different speed and creates different amount of heat than it would on an RB25. having said that, I didn't go past 14psi on my RB20 with R33 turbo. having now said that, since a hiflow from hypergear is now about $800, I wouldn't be too fussed if it popped.

there is no boost cut.

I don't see how he can keep saying he did NOT clip the honda. you can see it and you can hear it. and if the honda didn't swerve and kept going straight, you would have clipped it further up the body. Just a question.. but were either of the drivers wearing a helmet?

will you need to go on an angle to get it in your driveway? lol

just out of interest.. what would this 180 sell for?

now on carsales.. is about to get it's 140,000km service. it gets another 12 month rego in 3 weeks

swap R33 GTST? manual, white, stockish.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...hl=qld+brisbane same sort of price as yours.

on carsales now with more pics http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=121CF0C5CC6A $9300 about to get another 12 months rego in 3 weeks time.

If you believe those 40,000kms are legit, why not just spend that money you are looking to put on top for a manual and convert it.

straight swap for an R33 GTST and you can keep all your stereo gear.

son of a b....

amazingly, I am STILL looking for a stock R33 GTST exhaust. or at least a quieter one than I have now