TTT

the aftermarket bov will most probably fit in the place of the factory one. so until you have that ready to fit, unblock all hoses and leave the factory one on there as it is supposed to. once you have the new bov, remove the stock one. block off the big return hose. attach the new bov and attach the small vacuum line to the new bov. adjust it as required. keep the stock bov.. you'll want it back soon

what a noob. he says this forum has become nissan australia, then the example is of people talking about commodores and supras? Did you just start this thread to test that your keyboard was still working?

LMAO - both of you guys have at one stage asked to buy my R34 GTR cat. It's better than CATCO. so just buy it.

might as well change the plugs while the coil packs are out. NGK BCPR6ES (already gapped at 0.8mm) are only about $3 each.

still boring. fast... is not always what makes a car fun to drive.

I didn't bother even looking at 2 and 3. I'll get issue 4 on your recommendation. when does it hit the stands?

You'll realise why when you advertise it. and it's still advertised 7 months later.

I don't remember saying it DROVE BETTER or saying get a 318i. I simply mentioned a 325i I had seen. anyway, comes back to your money, your choice. waste it how you want.

A poser car.. cool. fair enough. neither of your 2 choices will give any hint of performance or go too well around corners in stock 10-15 year old suspension. and once you get a set of Superlowsbro on them, it'll look the part for sure. and handle even better both would make for a nice cruiser.

I think the code is Y, three, one, one, zero, W

bahahahaha...

dude. I'll be more than HAPPY to do a straight swap of your clapped out S14A for my series 1 R33 GTST.

Shouldn't your mate be concentrating on getting 2.3m aerials and bull bars on his magna first? what about 4 x 2000watt spot lights for the roof?

General rule... If there is a turbo version of either car, don't buy the NA version. Why not get a nice BMW or something. it will handle better than either of those cars. They look better than both. And you won't sit there thinking "I wish I had bought the turbo version" When you CAN drive turbo cars, then see which you can afford. I've recently seen a clean E36 325i coupe for $9K. factory leather etc. Much better finished car then eother of your choices. What is that you are after in a car? it's obviously not power or speed with your 2 choices.

it's worth LESS than an R33 series 1 coupe. so go with that in mind. I assume it's gun metal grey? or 2 tone silver and grey?

another thing out left field... U13 Bluebird SSS Attessa. kind of a slower, heavier GTiR with more room and comfort.

sure.. get an R31 if you want something that has the weight of an R33 with less power than an R32. and worse suspension etc.

Just a correction. Aus Delivered S14 is 147kw.. not 162kw. another nissan to think about is a Pulsar GTiR almost same power as R33 toughest SR20 ever. biggest stock T28 turbo on an SR20. weighs 1220kg 4wd hatch (more room in the back and plenty of traction) they can be had for $10K ish. (seen some as low as $8K but mainly around $10K - $11K) downside might be the look.. personal choice.. Familia GTX?? - essentially a combo of Ford Laser and Mazda 323 http://www.turboclub.com/turbocars/mazda/M...milia_GTX_1.jpg there is also a GTR version of the Familia. if you can handle FWD, an EP82 Starlet is a good base. about $5K from stock has them running 12's. http://pics.hoobly.com/full/P56YQUMOTVEO9ODMCO.jpg

what do you mean by "performance"?

Lots of R33 gtst's around for under $10K More room in the back than the R32 (not much but still bigger). thinking outside Nissan stable... WRX Lancer GSR Familia GTX Celica GT4 (if you're queer) Galant VR4 Soarer TT MA70 Supra (if 7mgte engine, get the TYPE A, or get one with a 1jz) FC RX7 series 4 or 5 (expensive on fuel and expect repairs) I've had a series 1 S14 200sx and a couple of R32's and liked the 200sx better.. all cars had usual mods. Currently have an R33 which I'm looking to sell for $9K. Looking to go t a WRX hatch (need the space).

Best place to relocate the pod filter to is the Shed. in it's place put the stock air box. if you must keep it, people have put in in the stock intercooler spot before. then you have to put a shield to stop all the stones and water from getting to it, so some sort of shield. also, people have found that air with that much force on it has caused problems with the afm. also remember that cutting a bigger whole there in the chassis is Illegal.

as in the hair products?

there is a diagram posted above of the standard system and yes, like anything that moves, it can eventually fail here is an actual pic of the stock bovs.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a137847-

bump - who wants a free copy of BOOST edition 1? apparently a collectors edition. LMAO - everything I hoped it didn't have, it did. it's like they sensed it and actually had a section for a collection of 9 second VL's actually, I don't think it had one car that actually turns corners. I'll admit the GOGGO mobile was out of left field.

will be putting this in to carsales for $9K soon. anyone interested at $9K car now has 134,000kms on it. will be sold with rego and rwc.