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Everything posted by TTT
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farkin LOL!!! well done Ryan.
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Interesting Dyno Test On New Hypergear Turbo.
TTT replied to STATUS's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
upon even further reading.. it is the same car.. lol.. -
Interesting Dyno Test On New Hypergear Turbo.
TTT replied to STATUS's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
ATR28 it seems to be.. http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?s...&hl=ca18det edit: sorry.. this might be a different car.. numbers seem to be different. -
Shut up...
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Interesting Dyno Test On New Hypergear Turbo.
TTT replied to STATUS's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
URAS - was this the AT28 turbo?.. or something.. -
Tuned..... 1002hp R34 T88gk 18cm Monster!
TTT replied to STATUS's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I wish Dyno's only had the ability to print out air:fuel mixtures only. or that there was only an on or off setting.. no loading, ramp, temp correction etc. or a way to connect some sort of sensor to the fly wheel to actually read engine hp. number of cry babies here is crazy -
I think he thought you meant Discopotato was the previous tuner.. as in the user on here discopotato. that's what I thought you meant as well.
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who remembers the "I can't see shit" eric chop? LOL... those saturday BBQ's were awesome. if not that, the saturday lunches at Michaels restaurant... the chilli chicken... man.. I'd fly back for that if it were still around.. I remember people would just turn up every saturday at Akira... no organisation etc.. within an hour, there would be like 15 skylines etc just to sit around talk rubbish and eat. the exhaust photos.. Frank and Minh... were the biggest culprits.. Mark (or was it Marek - URINE...) was also up for pipe action...
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um.. why not pull it out and clean it first with electronic contact cleaner ($10 from disk smith) if it still does it re-solder the units electrodes... search on here for "AFM+SOLDER" to see how it's done. it will cost a fair bit less than $550 (like $530 less) and will get the exact same result.
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this is the reason why you don't mix friends or family with business. 1.) engine was on it's last legs 2.) Trent should have (and probably always will from now on) refuse to tune it at all or do all the calls and get signed paperwork etc etc.. all the shit he doesn't have time for. let see.. everyone one who has EVER dealt this URAS has had nothing but praise for him. URAS has offered ALOT of free info on this forum for all to share, which he got from his experience. stuff that you would pay for. After hearing/reading all this, if I took my dieing car to him expecting wide open arms, and he goes "Nah mate.. I'm not touching that with a 10' clown pole.. go get this this and this fixed, then I tune it" I'd probably get the shits, come on here and blab about how bad an experience I had with that workshop and that guy who so many people had such good words about. or If Trent said "mate all those rattles sound like you need a new engine or rebuild" I would have thought he was just after my money and didn't want to spend time to "try" and fix it. and again, move on to somewhere else, or start a thread saying "he just wanted to rebuild my motor without even trying to fix it" so it's a no win for him. he did what he thought was right. see a forum member with a problem. decides to help out. fixes what seems to be big problems (did I read a cam lobe was missing????). at reduced labour rates again to help out. number of other diagnoses (lean mixture etc) then it came and bit him in the arse due to the fact that he didn't make 1 phone call and say 1-3 sentences about how it doesn't look good still and he is not happy about tuning it as it looks like it is going to die. and from the other side.. Liz - takes dieing car with 178rwkw. gets back a car with 155rwkw after a tune and new ecu and cam etc etc fixed. only to have a bearing problem "after" taking it for a drive making her think that they schemed this all up so they could say "well you must have broken it on your 2 minute drive around the block" and what's going to happen here if you don't just say "oh well.. you did what you could, it would have been nice to have that call first but these things happen" and Trent saying "correct, I should have called, but I made a decision based on my experience which I have always relied on and has so far got me NO problems.. I will make sure I make that call if I come across this sort of situation again" Liz says "trent.. you thin you could rebuild it for me and look after me a little" Trent says "let me get you a figure of what it will cost for the rebuild and your options of more expensive or cheaper depending on what parts we use" and you all live happily eva after. The end.
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Wtb - R33 Gts-t Brisbane\gold Coast\ Sunshine Coast
TTT replied to mcharg's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Mate.. I've got mine up for sale.. not on these forums just yet and "kinda" fits your requirements. Price = Check white = Check manual = check Mods = cat back, exedy clutch, lowered springs, tints, K&N panel filter (or blitz pod - or both, rear strut brace, adjustable castor arms, ugly aftermarket steering wheel, JVC deck. kms = 130,000kms (is getting it's service this Sunday morning) rego till late 2009 Pic http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d158/T_T...0gtst/R33-1.jpg Located in Brisbane North. I haven't put it up for sale here cause I was looking to swap so I'm not without a car, but I have seen a few cars I want so I could buy again straight away. Let me know if it interests you. -
how do the before and after torque figures compare? as in stock turbo and this one.
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that is a once off mate. there are MANY people making alot more power with those turbo's. the fact is, 215rwkw can be made with an R34 GTT stock turbo at like 12 psi.. so it's got nothing to do with the turbo. soemthing else is going on there.. you did say something wasn't set up on the dyno properly. go back again when it is all fixed. and you have sorted the misfire. and finally, dyno is a tuning tool etc etc.. a CA18 on NS made 255rwkw on 22 psi using a hypergear turbo. and ofcourse the whole forum went on and on about how it was Trents Dynapack dyno and it was happy etc etc. who cares. go take it to another dyno for one run, and see what you get.
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I have a Blitz pod and adapter that came off my RB25det R33. you want it?
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less noise?
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sump = empty sump + 5L oil = sump with 5L of oil sell to new owner sump = 4L of oil in it (let say it's used/leaked a litre) sump with 4L oil + new 2L oil = sump with 6L oil OBVIOUSLY it's going to blow out of where ever it can. I don't mean to be rude, but how can you get an oil change wrong? even if you are a ford man. I'm pretty sure Fords have sumps and hold x amount of oil which you DRAIN via the sump plug before putting new oil in. For the record, I used Motul 4100 turbolight for over a year on one of my old R32 GTST's. never had a problem. it was only a street car. didn't go to a track or strip and didn't spend any time sideways. Current skyline is on a diet of Castrol Edge range. 10w40 in winter and 10w60 in summer
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what gave you the impression that tube and fin would cause overheating.. it's the other way around.. BAR and PLATE coolers don't let as much air through them to the radiator behind, which would cause over heating. anyway, if you want a really budget one.. try mine.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Xr...ic-t240308.html
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where was your bov that you took off? what kind of bov was it? most aftermarket ones have attachments that you can buy to make them plumback instead of trumpet. then you just need to run a hose of some sort to the inlet (between filter and turbo). what is the intake piping made of? I assume it's not the stock one since you have a high mounted AM turbo. if it is some sort of metal, you could get an exhaust place to take it off and cut and weld an outlet for the bov return pipe.
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superS13 - my reply was in regards to the alloy v iron block remark before..
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$23K for a stag? if that's not a fraud I don't know what is..
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shannons for me is $650 per year. insurance value is $13K but I'm 31 years old. excess is $400 back to the topic, stock cooler will be fine. R34 GTT stock cooler would be better.
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seriously.. the whole alloy block v iron block is useless in this topic. LS1 engines seem to weork really well with the TT kits. making over 450rwkw with waves of torque that you could NEVER see from an RB of any kind. I was saying that if the LS1 was fitted to an R32. even in NA form with the usual NA upgrades of cams, extractors tuning etc, these motors spin up over 300rwkw. 1290kg 89 model R32 with RB20 making what 200rwkw with usual mods? or 1240kg 89 model R32 with LS1 making over 300rwkw. so more power, more torque, less weight and better distributed weight. and you would prefer to keep the RB20 because it has an iron block? lol..
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some more facts. 5.7L LS1 weighs less than all RB motors. if fitted to a skyline engine bay, less of the motor hangs past the front strut tower meaning even better balance than with the RB motor. not sure on weight specs of LS2 6L.
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raz - early model = 1290kg 92+ model = 1310kg R32 gts4 (4wd rb20) = 1450kg (essentially useless) R33 gtst in manual = 1350kg r33 gtst in auto = 1390kg
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only parts remaining are: FMIC CAT converter Pod filter. couple of people interested in the CAT and FMIC but no definite answers yet. still for sale.