Damo

Damn that is a tight fit behind the radiator. What kit did you buy ossie? was it the Hybrid GT spec.

Thanks all for your experiences, looks like i will just have to buy it and find out for myself. Those that had it professionally fitted, how much did this cost?

I have read so many posts now on installation issues with the Hybrid FMIC. I am looking at getting one over the next week and want to know exactly what is required here. Info req on S1 R33 GTST Some people say you need to cut back the fan blades to allow the piping to pass back behind the radiator, other people say this is not necessary. Who has and who hasnt trimmed back the blades? And what about the balance on the blades, wont this get affected if it is trimmed back? Also, I have read you need to cut a hole through the body somewhere to fit the pipe through. What tools are required to cut into the body? Will a hacksaw do or should i go out and buy a drill? Appreciate any help guys Damo

Hey ICER33, let us know if u noticed any difference when its all hooked up and running. Did you need to do any modding to the front end to make it all fit?

Very nice effort, every time i go to see the top fuelers they blow up half way down the track and still manage to roll through for a 5 to 6 second pass. What was the event there, no one was in the crowd?

or you could drill a hole in the new pipe. whatever you do just make sure you tap into the pressure side of the piping otherwise the waste gate will not open and will over boost. Other than that, how was installing the kit yourself and how long has it taken. I am looking at getting the same kit soon as summer is coming fast. Can i ask where you brought it from too?

Correct. Have you reved the car over 5000 rpm yet?

I think the worst that can happen in this situation is maybe a burn from a very hot spanner. The current will take a path of least resistance ie. straight through the spanner. Very little will pass through your body. It is the equiviliant of taking off the +ve terminal while leaning against your can providing an earth, you should know that doing this will not give you a shock. Now sticking your tounge across the starter motor terminals may cause a little grief.

I have the same problem on the right side. Have tried getting the assembly off by removing the nuts/bolts with no luck. will have to use a hammer next time i think. Let us know how you go with it, i might have another look this weekend

On the CRD website they are advertising an intercooler for 690. Seems a pretty good price. Does anyone know what size or make it is? Here is the link http://www.croydonautosports.com.au/

Where are Xclusive colours based? Do they have a website?

the other wire you need to hook up to an earth. Just wire it up to anything that is metal and earthed to the body of the car. most boost gauges are mechanical. simply blow or suck on a hose connected up to it and watch the gauge move.

Hook the bleed valve up to the 2 hoses going to the boost solenoid. 1 side goes to your inlet manifold and the other to the wastegate. just leave the solenoid out of the system. Should not need to worry about the t-piece for this. I hooked my boost gauge up to the factory line which is in the back left corner of the engine bay looking from the front. It is tapped off the intake plenum, I just wacked in a t-piece.

Hey scott, I like what you have done with yours. Did u do it yourself. what tools are needed and do u need to get plastic welding or a spray job after its cut out.

I will be installing a FMIC soon but i am not too sure what to do about the stock bar that will block airflow. What have others done to this type of bar? Would it be better to buy a new front end or chop the one i have? Here is a pic anyway The bar is in the centre where the number plate hangs off

check your hoses going to the gauge. should be tapped off the intake manifold somewhere. I had a similar problem recently on my r33 and found a hose had a split in it causing the gauge to read less on boost than what it should have been. On the 33 it is located in the drivers side rear of the engine bay, r32 should be in a similar spot.

Can you please explain oil surge to me

Hey all, I am looking at getting the Hybrid intercooler soon for my R33 from http://www.flyn.com.au/home.htm and am wondering if it is worth paying the extra $150 to get the GT spec over the Drift spec. They claim that the GT spec is 30% lighter and air velocity is improved by 15%. Has any one compared the 2 before? The GT spec is $1038 and the Drift spec is $888 Cheers

I am convinced its nothing to worry about, thanks for your help

Having a removable gear stick would be a show stopper for car theifs, one you can just twist on and off. If it detached from the base then it would be impossible to get into gear. Sort of like Mr Bean removing the steering wheel from his mini. Also disconnecting the A/F meter or having a kill switch tapped into the wiring somewhere will stop the car from starting. I usually do this when parking in dodgy areas.

I am running redline 10w 40 and its happening when engine is at operating temp. Its a pressure light. My sump aint bent either. Has anyone else seen or heard of this happening. Only happening under very heavy braking and just before i come to a stand still. And only for a second.

You are right, there are heaps of threads on this topic, even for the RB25DET. One simple rule to remember, the less you pay then shorter time between changing plugs again. Dont expect 25-30000 kms out of $4 coppers. I suggest get the coppers and do the job yourself, its pretty easy with the right tools and change them every 10 - 15000 kms. If u find this task too hard then pay someone to do it and get the platinums or iridiums put in. They will last longer but are more expensive. Final thought: U say you dont want to spend $17 on a plug (total of $102) that will last you 50,000kms. This works out to be .204 cents a kilometer compared to coppers at .24 cents a kilometer. Money should not be an issue here and i would never put sub standard parts on my R33 just to save a few bucks Here are a few links. You should be able to make up your own mind after reading them. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

I have been practicing my emergency braking lately after getting new pads and machined rotors and have noticed. my oil warning light will flash on for a second. Has anyone else seen this under heavy braking. I guess it is probably normal and nothing to worry about. I hope. And yes my oil levels are correct.

Sorry, when you said motor, i thought you ment engine.

Look on their website for dealers http://www.redlineoil.com.au/reseller-locations.asp not sure about newcastle though. I guess any performance motorshop will be able to get it for you.