Damo

bearings in the aircon compressor maybe.

al least your kms will not clock up as quickly

why not just get the redline lightweight shock proof for both? seems a pretty popular choice on the forums.

try an adjustable exhaust cam gear. good for 10rwkw and only 175AUD from japan. If you cant afford the turbo upgrade just yet then look at TOMEI PONCAMS again from japan only about 700AUD and will be good for 20-25RWKW.

Have a look at the bosch 910 pump and a hi pressure regulator to get the most out of the stock injectors. might save you a bit of money

I thought it was normal for injectors to tick like that, did not realise you could fix it??

U guys sure u r not just hearing the injectors ticking away.

http://www.madhatterscustoms.com.au/ Check out these guys in penrith, i spoke to them a while ago and saw some of the work they did. Very impressive and cheep. Should be able to get outside done for 3-4K.

where are they?

Will the engine start at all? What does the boost gauge say if the engine does start? Are u getting a vaccume reading?

I have some redline gear oil ready to go in too at the moment. How much did you use? I brought 2 US gallons of it (about 7.4 lts) to do the gear box and diff. I have read numerous posts and there seems to be a conflict of gear box oil quantities. I have seen the range from 2.5 lts to 3.5lts.

Hi all, My skyline was sitting in the garage for 4 months recently and now i noticed the boost is only going to 8 psi where as i did have it set for 10psi with a turboXS bleed valve. My question is do these valves need re adjusting over time or could i have a leak somewhere or worse a seal blown? Whats the best way to check for a leak. I would not want to adjust the bleedvalve and have the turbo over working if i did have a leak. Cheers Damo

Where abouts is MRC then?

Mine does not move when just idling. I might check the hoses on the weekend. Does anyone know if the air temperature of the day can affect this?

Hi all, I have noticed lately that my boost gauge is reading about 15 VAC at idle when it has been on 18 every since i installed it (approx 8 months ago). Just wondering if the heat can cause this or could i have a leak. It drops down to about 12 with the aircon on.

The accuracy of the standard gauge is not so much an issue, but can u tell where 12psi is on the standard gauge? An aftermarket gauge is safer to use when setting up the right pressure because they are more responsive to pressure change therefore u can tell if u r getting a boost spike. The standard gauge takes too long to move. So u could be flooring the accelerator with boost going up to 15psi then settling on 12 and u would not know the difference. There have been people who have done it on the stock gauge but many would not recommend doing it this way. Just buy a gauge for $100 and it may save u +$1000 on a new turbo.

The way it was set up was ok. The boost solenoid (that was bypassed) allows the boost to jump from 5-7 psi above approx 4800 rpm. If it is set up the way it was u will not have the 2 stage boost. In otherwords u will get 7 psi from as low as 3000rpm. Its up to u how u set it up, I would go back to how it was.

Just the standard ECU. It would be a bit of a silly design for an aftermarket ecu to loose hundreds of dollars of tuning maps just from a flat battery.

Yeah the oil was checked and even replaced after my friend told the mechanic the car is making a noise. The mechanic said just to put a thicker oil in it and it will be fine. Then 10 km later bye bye engine. The car is getting towed to the mechanic now and the dick still thinks its the oil. I dont think he has a clue.

If u r talking about the power FC then no it will not reset by disconnecting the battery. It has its own backup battery. What makes u say the ECU is giving u problems? If u had a few problems due to the ECU then I would imagine u would have to have it tuned on a dyno again.

I dont have the screw on my ECU, Read my above post and use the consult plug by shorting the 2 pins together. There is even a photo in a previous post from last week of what the plug looks like.

Is their anyway we can confirm that it is the timing belt that caused it?

Just spoke to a friend of mine who had his 100,000 k service done today. He was lucky to have driven 15kms and his engine siezed. He first noticed a loud clunking/ticking/rattle from the engine that he describes as a metal on metal sound. Now the engine will not even tick over. The maintenance he had done was: Timing belt changed Tension pulley tightened (due to belts screaching on startup) Several seals replaced (ie, crank seal) fuel filter changed oil / oil filter change One thing that sounded a bit dodgy was a crank bolt which he ( the mechanic) apparently snapped and had to replace. We are going to confront the mechanic tomorrow and want to make sure we know we know what is wrong first so the guy cant feed us any bulls%*t. I think the most likely cause is the timing belt not fitted correctly. What do u guys think and how can we confirm that this is the problem?

Try http://www.powerlink.co.nz/~graeme/faq/

I found the connector, it was hanging by the loom (must have fallen off its bracket), way down below the fuse panel. shorted the pins and did the diag test. All is good, even the O2 sensor test I got the check light to flash about 8 times in 10 seconds. Thanks for everyones help.