260tech

Sounds like you is what is called a panel beater over here Andi. R34 front end conversion should be right up your strasse. Good luck with the mods & welcome. GW

Power steering belt replaced on the 260, took 3 days lol. (Lazy b$%td) 940 came off, was shredding not completely foobah. 960 on hand..........too long. 925 on hand...........way too short. Bought another 940.....................effin tight as to fit but works OK. Hindsight suggests 945 or 950. Amen. GW

You could start by checking out the consolidated workshop thread maybe? Not sure how current it is but.

Bugger!

Coventrys, Repco, Supercrap, Google for starters for generic product suppliers. Exhaust studs. And tube of Never-sieze!

What he said. Trickle charge via solar. If you decide to do this then trickle charger needs to supply a similar amount of energy/current measured (calculated) over a 24 hour period that is drawn off by your connected accessories of course. (Real solar panel performance is another can of worms btw). If you decide to disconnect for longer idleness then make sure battery is fully charged first. (90 ~ 95%). This could take 48 hours or more. Caution, basic chargers can do terminal damage to your good battery (plates buckling/sulphating) if you leave it on charge for too long. Most charging to get you going will only bring the battery up to ~ 70% within 6 ~ 12 hours & a nice green light on your battery charger which is enough to kick engine over with reasonable spark but it is not really enough charge for storage purposes or laying around idle running clocks, immobilisers & other accessories without daily boost from driving. Once fully charged it (battery) will/should happily sit for up to 6 months in your engine bay or somewhere else, out of the way of little fingers in a milk crate off the floor/concrete. My 2c. Cheers, GW

What Jase & John say. Last humans to touch mine was wheel alignment mob. Either way after market suspension parts need to be carefully checked for any irregularities as routine part of servicing imho, Especially lhs., which gets hammered even in a straight line anyway, if you are on shite road surfaces or driving hard more often than not. Which means quite a few of us I reckon. I would have found my problem before it let go if I had paid more attention as it is a gradual thing in development of loosening bolt bits, clunks & rubbing noises. Mine was scheduled for inspection/alignment with a suspension mob when it let go. Noises are not to be ignored, they don't care about appointments lol. Also look for cracks on standard parts if you upgrade swaybars/springs/shocks. (Most of us yeh?) I have Whiteline solid adjustable swaybars plus Bilstein/Eibach shocks/spring setup. All that extra resistance to movement during cornering is great but was still transferred through bracket pictured below ~ on my bus. Maybe there is an upgraded bracket on the market, dunno. Found this crack during replacement job after fail on highway. This is the mounting bracket for one end (LHS) of front swaybar drop link to strut. Crack had been there for some time, was already previous looking & rusty, new damage caused by strut dropping on to front axle was nice & shiny, (resting on swaybar bracket) & staying in place thank f^&k, until car pulled up. We were lucky. Cheers, GW

Cusco one piece front uppers, for ease of fitment. 5 months. Because these ones decided to come apart. Cheers, GW

You will see what the locators are for when you get your cylinder head back champ. Cheers & good luck with the build. GW

You will see what the locators are for when you get your cylinder head back champ. Cheers & good luck with the build. GW

Thanks for the response. I will hit Toyota tomorrow. GW

Mine are straight, clear of anything dangling, if your originals are straight the new jobs should fit one way or another being adjustable. Cheers, GW

I wish to know where to buy the above items, M10 fine thread. Aka Crown lock nuts, partial torque, uni-torque, Grover, Auto, Automotive, Elliptical offset to name the descriptors that I have found so far. (Flanged or non-flanged). I have searched the net & SAU in vain to find an Australian supplier or source reference. Can buy by the 100cwt., out of China lol. Or ; Does anyone have a part number for OEM Nissan M10 X 1.25 cone lock nuts or flared cone lock nuts? That could work. Yes I could use spring washers or nylocs but would prefer same as what was present on my suspension if possible. Thanks for reading. GW

Happened to me a couple of months ago, only when turning to the right under some load. Couldn't figure out if it was coming from left front or left rear. Was going to book it into a suspension joint but something came up that needed car to do a quick trip. About 100kms short of destination this happened. See attached pic(s). Got a phone call from my son who was doing the trip to say (briefly) that he knew what the noise was & could I arrange a tow truck 'cos his cell phone was going flat. Seems my after market upper outer suspension bush bolt/nut combo had slowly worked loose & finally let go under rather hairy circumstances. Fortunately son was not injured, managed to pull the beast up & get off the road before demolition by other road users could occur. The fix for me has been to fit Cusco upper front camber arms, to replace the damaged item. Moral : Hearing unexpected noises when rolling/cornering/whatever from outside of vehicle? Get on a hoist asap & go over yer nuts & bolts. Meticulously. Question I have is; does anyone know where to buy M10 fine thread grade C, 9~10 cone/crown/auto/automotive/Grover/partial torque/uni-torque/elliptical offset/stove type locking nuts in small quantities. I need two, for a sway-bar drop link which needed replacing. (also damaged during incident). I can buy some from China in 300kg lots but really don't need that many lol. I will post this question again when I figure out the appropriate forum. Cheers, GW

Pretty sure you assume correctly. Else I have missed out on a lot of Dolphjn/Nismo bargains over the years. Cheers GW