260tech

Gotta be a big tick for the Albany coppers in there somewhere, as well as the initial spotter of course, glad to hear the car will soon be back with the owner. Cheers GW

Welcome back Gary. (^_^)

Wonder what the reserve price is on this bundle of fun? http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...SS%20series%202 Luvly! (^_^)

+heaps! The loot I have saved from "just buying once" & getting the right thing/something that works. Thanks for the good advice fellas. GW

Item Name: WGNC34 clear front indicators, S1 Bid ID: 5597 Shipping Method: Air / EMS Delivery Address: Shipping Category: A Item Cost: 10,000¥ Japanese Domestic Freight: 1,200¥ Import Monster Commission: 2,500¥ EMS Freight: 3,000¥ Total Japan Costs: 16,700¥ Exchange Rate: $1AUD buys: 63.01¥ Australian Domestic Freight: N/A Sub Total: $265.04 GST: $26.50 Total: $291.54 Less deposit already paid: $0.00 Balance owing on item: $291.54 Your Import Monster account balance after this invoice: $ Back in March 2009, cheers GW

Waits...................no offense.

Bugger!

Price for boot area floormat/board, if not cracked? Too 6432 Cheers GW

Hey there, heaps of good stuff in here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ter-t85278.html

Jim will rebuild your clutch/pressure plate for the hp/application you nominate. Loves a chat, phone him up. Cheers GW

Hi there, my experience with the 260RS (reckon mine was in good shape to start with) is that they are pretty firm handling in the first place with stock suspension. Having said that I have done the SK upgrade in the Stagea Suspension thread to make my ride even firmer. Need better holding seats now. If your torque sensing diff was shagged when you got the car I would be investigating further to see what else had been modified or needs replacing. Rear cradle bushes flogged out, shocks nackered etc. I have stock shocks from my car laying around in the shed gathering dust if you are interested. (JECS) Nothing wrong with them, just Bilsteins are better. Plus original 260 anti-roll bars, front/rear. My 2c Cheers GW

Engine swap? Like for like? Retained original ignition/ecu electrics? Electrics working OK before swap? Electrical harness/sensors/fuses not farked during major surgery? If ans="yes" to previous four questions get Skyline savvy autospark involved, if ans="no" make ans="yes". If still no go then back to "Skyline savvy autospark". Else keep pushing s#$t uphill. Hope this helps, best of luck with it all. Cheers GW

Gidday Morgan.............. welcome From another old Kalboy, up for a cruise sometime, if it's open to Stags? Cheers GW

Trust the lucky lassie's maiden name is Mines or Top Secret san? Best of luck with it champ.

Would like to be there, work permitting. edit (Old hoon)

+1, sounds like the rubber seal needs to be stripped back to scratch, washed with rubber friendly degreaser or "silicone prep juice" & then try some SIKAFLEX perhaps. May even need to be worked into the strands of the wiring loom. Messy procedure. Else search for entry point for water to get into the loom in the first instance, reroute loom to make low point for water to drop out, rather than run downhill into the cabin area? Sounds like a real pain in any event. My 2c & good luck. GW

Maybe a driver training day then, complete with supporters? Cheers GW PS:Hi Kirsty, hope all is well & you got things under control there.

Rooted around with my brake lines a couple of years ago whilst researching non genuine braided lines, had no issues with ABS. The problem arises if you inadvertently allow brake fluid reservior to drain empty during the process. Air can then be introduced where it is not wanted. No doubt pressure bleeding would then be required. When opening the lines have a pipe plug(s) standing by to immediately cap openings, to minimise fluid loss, preclude air entry into system & maintain operating level in fluid reservior. No problem. I used some clear plastic tubing doubled over, same size as drain tube for bleeding excersize(spelling), & tied off (zip ty) to make el cheapo plug. Worked fine. Cheers GW

Maybe try here? CBF looking further myself, google works...........maybe. http://www.eautoworks.com/search-ALL/ca1-ba81.htm Cheers

You are talking about the breather hose connection sealing rubber (nylon/neoprene) sealing washer? If so try Nissan or take bayonet connector to generic parts supplier (Repco/supercrap/autobarn/2buckshop) & go from there. Cheers GW

Hi there, kinda old post I know but have you been through this thread end to end, heaps of good info in here if you take the time to pick through it all but in particular: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St....html&st=20 Anyway, I put SK's full monty (but with Eibach coil springs-not Whiteline) on my 260 even though it was pretty good in the first place apart from chewing out rear tyres, goes real good now. I fitted Whiteline solid adjustable swaybars front & rear, (original bars were fixed position solid front/hollow rear) set to medium stiff, middle hole - points good in corners. Ref castor & quote SK "you can never have enough caster" but at the end of the day there will come a point when you load up the steering system to the point where power steering components are loaded to a seriously shortened life. I have aimed for the settings in this post (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Stagea-Suspension-t53079.html&st=20) & have no problems to date. I did this upgrade about 2 years ago now. Actually it was the first thing I did ~ to improve rear tyre life was the official reason. My 2c Cheers GW

Spotted, heading west on Reid highway at Beechboro road intersection, silver (or white) RS4 at 1145 hrs yesterday. Only got side on view, I was stuck in que waiting to turn onto Reid heading east, dunno if S1 or S2.

Very good result considering the mods, well done.

Looks to me like it is a spacer arrangement, therefore longer side to hub is my guess. No harm in trying both ways? Or Google. My 2c Cheers GW

Welcome to the world of appreciating assets Zennon, roll on the next one! Cheers GW