260tech

You could always direct this question to <[email protected]> Aaron or Daniel. My guess is they could help or supply some options. Up to you what you do from there. Cheers GW

Spotted shmick white job last night, about 4:40pm travelling south on bypass road near Superpit Kalgoorlie. Gave him the big Probably thort I was mad. Cheers GW

First car was an 1956 850cc 4cyl Austin A3, (250quid drive away) commonly known as A30 but we thought there was no room for a nought so A3 it was. The buzz was......FREEDOM! A total oil burning rust bucket. That car got fitted with a bored & balanced Morris 1000 motor, dropped straight in, nothing else done & went everywhere. Max indicated velocity was 70mph & was regularly wound off the clock...............corners were exciting, especially if you were pacing a lowered Morry 1000 or a VW bug...............freedom. Cheers GW

Got my rear springs fitted about six weeks ago, wanted 370mm ride height (rear). Suspension fellas said best they could get was 360mm which I am more than happy with but I was under the beast today & noticed lower damper bushes seem to be a bit stressed. Probably done 2000km's since install. Just wondering if this is normal distortion of these bushes or are they cactus? They don't seem to be split but I don't recall them being noticeably off centre with old spring setup is all. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers GW

Hi there, can you put me onto the supplier for Tomei dumps at <$700aud (RB26) delivered please? My last quote was $900aud. Cheers GW

+1 Cheers Dude, enjoy. GW

Buy Ozzie mate. No contest. Cheers, GW

Yup. I agree totally, those would be blocking diodes I guess, (thought they was dodgy crimp connectors when I looked at pics, my bad) & therefore reversed biased/non conducting. might have worked if installed correctly. Still I agree with you 100%. Risky & what is wrong with a relay ffs? If competent install even requires one in the first place? Cheers GW

Nope. I got a Mongoose installed M80G or something like that. Already had Apexi pencil timer fitted prior to alarm install, the install instructions for the mongoose alarm clearly state that turbo timers can be accomodated no worries so what is he on about. And for the record I had the same conversation with the installer, not about fire & smoke but about my turbo timer & whether it would still work after the alarm was installed. I was re-assured at the time that all would be well. And that is the case now but I may crawl under my dash with a torch to check for emerging charcoal. Just in case. Ref bigger diode? What is that about? Did your installer wrap up something with the potential to run quite hot in amonst a lot of poorly insulated alarm interface connections did he? And guessed the required wattage for the diode whilst dis-regarding any heat dissipation issues as well? I would be spewin. Good luck with it all. GW

Ref 22mm/24mm front discussion; post #51 or thereabouts in the SK Stagea suspension thread goes someting like this: Quote SK "As you can see from the pictures of the box it was BNF27Z, and I measured it and it was 24 mm. When I ordered it, I ordered "BNF27Z, 24 mm front adjustable stabiliser bar for 1997 Nssan Stagea". So I got what I ordered. I will check with Whiteline next time I am talking to them about the catalogue, maybe it should be 24 mm or maybe they should have labelles mine "BNF27XZ". Either way be specific in what you order (part number and description) and you won't have any problems:cheers:" Unquote. As I said earlier i was supplied SBS22 front SBS24 rear bars, this number glued over original Whiteline part # so maybe you are looking for BNF27XZ whereas I was supplied BNF27Z(SBS22)? Tried pealing top label off box but too hard. Cheers GW

Still got old bars from 260RS. front bar is 22mm solid, considerably heavier than the rear bar, rear is 26.5mm hollow. Neither is adjustable. Goes back out to shed to check facts. Re-measure Whiteline jobs; I have now 22.3mm solid front adj, 24.3mm rear solid adj. My bars are set on centre hole front & rear. Coupled with Bilsteins/Eibach springs/castor kit there is practically no body roll that I have detected. I am expecting the rubber to break away before the wagon gives much movement in that respect. It just goes where-ever I point it in fact I need a decent seat to hold me in place before the limits can really be tested imo which is the main reason I have been too chicken to go in one of the WA forum organised track/training days. In the market for some Bride Euro II's & don't need seat lowered. More likely need it raised 20mm. Back to the sway bars. Dunno if it was a mistake or not but there was some discussion a year or so back in the suspension thread regarding bar diameter. I thought it was regarding 22mm vs 24mm & relative part numbers inferring otherwise but now I am not sure. I know this is not helping your quest sorry but all I can say is my 22mm front adjustable jobbie, coupled with the rest of SK's bits seems to be the business, for me at least. And having said that, the original arrangement on the 260 wasn't bad neither. Cheers GW

Hi there, just measured my front bar, from the side cos of ease of access, it is Whiteline & is 22mm. (solid vs hollow is the difference) JAMA part#SBS22 = front, SBS24=rear. JAMA=SK's suspension business. There was some discussion about the front bar being 22mm in the suspension thread somewhere, SK responded at the time & explained the relative differences in performance etc. All good. 22mm solid bar should be good. Cheers GW

Hi there, lucky the whole wagon is not fried. Hope all goes well with installers, can't see them getting outta that effort with no blame. Cheers GW

As below (mean above sorry), sandwich plate plus pics of fittings on rear of guages, depending on manufacturer thread could be bsp/npt? Jap sandwich plate will be npt or close. Hosedoctor/Pirtek/Enzed/any brake fitting shop should be able to help. Cheers GW

Alto vista "Babelfish"? Rings a bell.

Hi there, hopefully your compass display is satnav/gps related...........translator/finger-pokn best bet. Else a compass swing is in order. Still need translator but by the sounds of things. Roadmaps are good & Tomtom rocks. Hope you work it through without too much hassle. Cheers GW

Yup, so would I be happy with high oil pressure, providing always that the reading is not rediculous/off the clock. If the numbers you are quoting are accurate pressure wise for your motor & repeatable then I would not be worried. Quite happy in fact, particularly with idle pressure if that is on a warm engine. End of the day if you think it is all too good to be true & your engine is suggesting otherwise (rattling like a @#$% at idle) then get your system checked out. You don't need to get your system calibrated, get a test guage fitted & a chart of the results (idle kpa/indicated, 2000rpm/3000/4000 etc) so that you are aware of th inherent accuracy or otherwise of your system. That's all. Cheers GW

Hi there, if you are worried you should be able to get your guage & sender unit checked by an instro tech in your neck of the woods, whether your measuring system be of the mechanical or electo/mechanical variety. Cold & hot oil pressures would depend on oil type for starters, existing wear on pressure bearing (pardon the pun) surfaces & oil pump efficiency kick in after that. Oil pressure guage is reflecting degree of difficulty that oil pump is having in forcing oil through oil bearing surfaces. IE., it is measuring back pressure. The thing to be aware of is deviations from what is normal in your engine as no two motors/oil pumps will have exactly the same characteristics. Neither will two different (same make) pressure senders/guages unless they have been checked/calibrated on an "approved" type of test rig. If your system is not displaying repeatability or is unreliable on any two given startup cold/warm run sequences then I would be getting the guage/sender checked first with a view to replacement then looking elsewhere if the measuring system proves up. But if your pressure comes up the same all the time in the two different states (cold/hot), you have not changed oil brands/types/viscosities & your engine is not complaining then I would not worry. You would know yourself or at least have a fair idea when your motor is getting tired & in need of a birthday...........right? My 2c, hope it helps. GW

Spotted, silver s2 on GWN 6pm news wearing the dreaded P plate. Twice! S'pose it will be picked as a Volvo by the masses. Cheers GW Edit: GWN=West Aust. country TV station for you foreigners.

Yup. 1. Save the dough for GO! Manual RB25/26 If you are the nervous type these family wagons are not for you but if you are up for a sneaky station wagon then you're in the right place. 2. You must check out the offers for a looksee at resident Stags around Perth. 3. Stageas' are not economical, (~1600kg) like every other enhanced performance vehicle...at the end of the day the grunt comes out of the tank........at a cost. 4. If you really want a Stagea & not a Commonhore then nothing will deter you so go window shopping. Grade 4 & above at jp auctions are pretty much on the money, top condition, the onsite inspections at the auctions are very thorough. You could always run your potential wallet buster past a current owner before you sign up? 5. Pick a "no bulls#&t importer", make sure they commit to compliance before you commit to purchase. Again, check the raps on the forum. 6. Parts; you will need them sooner or later, every car does & this forum & it's members have done an awful lot of shoe work tracking down alternate bits that fit, suppliers of original & aftermarket stuff, know where to go/got most things covered. Drivetrain, suspension, motor stuff, body parts. The game gets tougher when you mod your car because it is no longer bog standard, but it is the same with Fords/holdens, no biggy. Start getting into it a bit & the list of "know where/how to find/fixers" gets smaller, that's all. 7. Don't prang it. 8. Buy RBNT's/Darrinspencer/Terminal/ wheels, if'n not sold! Good hunting GW

Double-sided tape I think they was. I got some pre-loved headlights coming with the eyelids still stuck to them..............I hope. Cheers GW

Sure do.

Welcome to the Stagea section, as people say there are many sources, hope you never need body panels but if you do <www.importmonster.com.au> seems to be a good starting point, browse "wgnc34" & see what comes up. Regards GW

+1, Apexi pencil went, carefully unplugged - no damage, left black box & wiring so after replacing like for like I now have spare black box for future failure. Also some person took stereo head unit but all wiring, speakers etc in place still so I just got preferred head unit fitted by approved installers during compliance. Most likely woulda replaced (head unit) it anyway. Best thing you can hope for is no serious damage to panels, interior & like posted earlier if there is good stuff in car at auction get it removed & shipped by alternate means. Cheers GW