260tech

Hi Chris, (me first ) did you get your springs sorted yet? Ref wheel geometry, these settings are from SK's thread for his road Wagon "front rear toe =zero, front camber = 1 deg neg, front caster as much as possible, left side 0.25 deg more than right for road camber issues, rear camber 0.5 deg negative. Had mine done recently, numbers about the same as above, fr & rr toe + 0'01" , fr camber -1'10"left, -1'08"right, caster +4'2"left, +3'1" rear toe +0'01"lt & rt but just reading rear camber = awful. ( left - 1.44 deg, right +11.4 deg) typo? Dunno & dunno why I didn't spot it before but I doubt Wilkinson Suspension would make a mistake & the guy did say that he couldn't get correct camber setting at the time. Meh I just paid and drove off but next job is going to be fit those rear camber bushes wot been sitting in shed. Cheers GW

Yup, 1000/month is the initial production target according to Steve Lague, Motoring section West Australian Saturday Dec 8/07. The way I read the article Australian Nissan dealers are holding orders for 2900 GTR's (not available before 3rd qtr 2009) from Nissan Japan, market depth in the USA & UAE who/which countrys are ahead of Australia in the delivery queue have yet to be tapped? Cheers GW

99.999% of weird, un-expected outcomes after doing "electrical things" to low voltage systems is related to emi/earthing. Cheers GW PS: Sean, at Wilkinson Suspension.

Lovely stuff, maybe put 235/40's on front & 2?5'/35's on back? <http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html> Looks great in any event. Cheers GW

Hi, you could always install them yourself, or with a mech minded mate, the exercise is well documented in SK's suspension thread, there are no special tools required (just observe the safety aspect with car elevated - reliable axle stands) setup on zero, Texta-mark the original settings on the way out & duplicate when fitting your adjustable bushes on the way back in. Spirit level could probably get you in the ballpark if all else fails. Next, wobble off down to your favorite wheel aligner (with the prerequisite 77 bucks) if it be not too far away & get alignment done to SK's specs? Gotta be worth a try even if you only do one end at a time hey? Cheers GW

Plus 1

Power steering belt Nissan Stagea 260RS series 1 (RB26 so should be good for all) VIN/CHASS#WGNC34-108837 (Fasted as genuine Autech) Power Steer : Nissan 11950-24U05 (4PK969) Aircon : Nissan 11720-77A00 (4PK910) Alt/Water pump : Nissan 11720-24U00 (4PK875) These numbers read from belts fitted to my motor & in service, all belts the grooved variety aka VN Commonwhore jobbies. Merry Xmas, hope it is not too late to be useful. GW

PM sent.

Same gear fitted on my 260 with reference to the above, kept my springs rather than those supplied but all the rest works good. My car is solid as on the road & throo the roundabouts. Couldn't be more satisfied. 235/40r18's Maxxis Cheers GW

Citywest as in Plaistowemews/railway tce kirsty? humour us country folk

I'm in Kirsty, if brakes are back together & working. Hi-tech research & stuff, don't ask. Tangles, you could send a donation so the WA'ers could toast yer health? Cheers GW

Hi there, the battle of the spigot bush hey? Hopefully you have triumphed by now but if not here's my 2c. In the past I have found that grease works a treat on brass bushes which are "press fitted in place", grease plug behind wooden dowel gotta be a slip/slide not tight fit (else just force bush in further) to prevent grease escaping as much as possible, belted with a BF hammer creates a massive momentary hydraulic shock behind said bush, be sure to place rag over ejection point for escaping grease else you may wear it, never had anything to do with steel bushes however it sounds like maybe your steel bush has been "shrink fitted/pressed in" & is a whole heap tighter. In any case brass bushes are no way as hard as steel & do not grab to the same extent as a consequence. Shrink fitted bushes I have dealt with in the past have typically been "rear axle wheel bearing retainer rings which need to be busted off. Ground/grind down thin in one place to the point where they can be flexed/fractured/split with a cold chisel & hammer to weaken metal to metal contact then slipped off & discarded. If this is your problem then maybe grind a groove that can then aid in splitting the bush, followed by the above grease extraction method to pop the weakened bush? Maybe a dremel & small stone will get the grinding/grooving done? Hacksaw blade width x2 would be enough to spring the bush to crack it imho. Plan B: Machine nice friendly porous (pre-oil impregnated) brass spigot bush to press fit inside nasty steel bush & continue overhaul? Assuming torque convertor shaft is several times the diameter of gbox front halfshaft? Good luck. GW

For best thermal conductivity, heat transfer rate, dissipation, (imho) ; 1. Bare metal. 2. Anodised. 3. Etch primed or painted, single coat. Dunno if one colour is more or less efficient than another in this case? Black absorber/white reflector? After this I imagine you would be heading towards significant insulation qualitys, ie., powdercoating..........................my 2c. Cheers GW

Like the man says, "there is a paste" never do the job without it imo. Anti-squeal, anti-rattle, anti-chatter, nice red~orange~pink colour, top stuff, sticky, helps hold things together, dries to form a silicone sort of rubber compound, use sparingly on metal to metal contact points, piston to pad backplate, pad backplate to caliper, anti rattle shims. did I mention the stuff is a lovely red~orange~pink, CRC "Disc Brake Quiet" 4 oz squeeze bottle. Caution: May cause eye irritation. Gets on everything if over applicated. Cheers GW

Bumpity???????????? screaming halt?????? dead in the water? a sticker would be nice I reckon. GTIR_OZ, maybe STAGEA_OZ? Plagarism(ing)(ry)

Yup, like the man says, good product, I got one of these a few months ago now, no need to stick down but can if you want to, material looked kinda soft for the job............no stiffening but this actually helps the mat for form fit and there is enough overlap to tuck it in to available nooks & crannies for stability. Smoothed it in one Sunday arvo & haven't touched it since, highly recommended, holds my road hazard detection device in place real good. Oh & the sun is excluded for sure. Shoulda posted ages ago, sorry Chuckie. Cheers GW

bump, I know you are all probably over it by now but to add my 2 cents worth, having flopped onto this (looking for something else as usual) Why/when do you bleed hydraulic lifters before/during engine rebuild/installation. To waffle a bit, I have always found that if people are told why first up it usually answers a lot of other questions down the track and/or will allow people to work things out for themselves. You bleed/prime hydraulic lifters or anything hydraulic for that matter so that it does not go back into service dry. Imho the supplier/repair manual author must assume that the said lifters are completely empty of the good oil or could be, from either having been supplied new in packet covered in preservative only or cleaned with a proprietry solvent during inspection prior to deciding that they are not worn or damaged & are therefore suitable for refitment to your otherwise new head/block etc., which would have been rebuilt using copious amounts of assembly oil (you hope) so that no moving parts start life metal to metal. (dry) Either way if they are installed in this empty condition they are gonna rattle for a while, wear until the engine oil circulation system pumps them up to operating pressure & as someone pointed out earlier maybe stick down (suction close) and maybe not pump up at all, ever. Someone else said that it helps clean the old oil out of your lifters & so it does but the primary reason is to give them a chance of not sticking permanently closed on initial startup. Hydraulic lifters are little oil pumps & most all pumps work better from startup if they are preloaded/primed. So, if they have been sitting for a while before re-install, or are new in box, prime'em, they'll loveya for it. Cheers

Hey Yudi, re-use original castor rods, Whiteline castor bushes part # KCA332/$150 a pair approximately = to suit 260RS series 1, (dunno about series 2) from any Whiteline dealer. Noltec equivalent (dunno part #, phone Wilkinson Suspension, Perth WA for part #) They quoted $75 a pair approximately. Original bushes tight, used a mandrel about 0.5mm less than dia of outer metal ring on original bushings, start to move/press out at around 5 tonne, press in easier with "must use" white grease supplied. Just have to keep 'em correctly aligned until they "pop in" is all. I used guide rod through centre offset adjusting bush to sorta keep things in line plus oversize mandrel for install, until poly bush was more or less in place. Also decided pretty much where I wanted centre (offset drilled) locating bolt/castor bias to be before pressing everything together. Take care not to damage fine threads on rearward fixing studs during ticklish re-assembly. Have fun. No problems yet but next job in that department will most likely be reco/renew power steering pump. Sure does load up steering felt through steering wheel. Cheers

Hi there Yudy, translation for allsuc please? Never mind, was wondering if you had the full specs on turbos supplied ex Autech with your 260? Have you looked into this at all? compressor/housing turbine/housing bearings kw @ bar?

Hey Mitchy, wots yer use by date. Can send my acct details, prepaid is good for me.

<Bump> I too would like to know the answer to this (2nd) question. Blitz 102mm fitz? Model/part/full dimensions/$/source? Prepared to hack a little bit/nothing drastic.................Anyone? Regards

Ladies & gentlemen, right here we WAer's maybe have a legitimate excuse for a group front cut! Anybody got a spare shed for about 6 hours of stripping time? (Barby & beers afterwards) Waddya reckon? Regards GW PS: Did the Perth Green Machine get fixed yet Mr Rooster? Edit Dale PPS: Shopping list starts below? Support ~ radiator ~ compatible S1

Spotted, me, by me doing things with the GTIR_OZ boys last Saturday. Went down to Perth with youngest son ........... for the hell of it as it turned out. Had big plans but no results. Never mind there's always next time. Regards to you all

That helps heaps! Can it be cloned Sir? I would be very interested to buy something like that, being mono-lingual & all.

White! And.........all Stageas stand out! They are a standout wagon no question.