260tech

Couple of things, 260 doan have sun roof(s) & ...........sell yer missus. Beautiful motorcar, if it was mine someone would have to kill me to get it! GW

Can you post up the manufact/part #s for the struts when you get them please? Cheers GW

Being an "old parent" myself I have nothing but admiration for your efforts on behalf of your parents' well being Josie. Great work. Sifting through the helpful suggestions posted above it seems to me your best bet in acquiring essential mobility items is to; 1. Locate/map-out retirements villages. 2. Check out local council collection times for "hard goods". 3. Get up early with your map & timetable & go for it. 4. Contact your local transfer station & give them a "heads-up" on your circumstances & what you are looking for. Good luck, GW PS: If you end up with too much "stuff" (read......get good at it) you could recycle/tidy it up & flog items on Gumtree for extra income.............if that is legal?

Whether a trickle charger (4 ~ 6 amps continous) is meant to be used on near dead (flat) batteries or not is neither here nor there. For around 30bux you can get a trickle charger & try it. Worst case scenario you have this handy piece of gear in your arsenal for future calamities. The only time a trickle charger will not do the job over some period of time & usually 8 ~ 24 hours is if the battery is rooted in the first place. With reference to multi-cell batteries of any type, "rooted" = shorted (or reversed charged) individual cells, individual plates consumed/completely sulphated, full of..........etc. Obviously if your battery is past it's "use-by" date/old in the first place you will be outta luck. For the price of a carton of Crownies it's worth a try. My 2c Cheers, GW

ps, the jumper cables i got from my friend were a little thin, any possibility that the cables are just not thick enough to enough amps to crank my engine? ^^You will know this 'cos they'll be too hot to handle, maybe even smoke up. Trickle charge (30bux from Supercrap) or new battery (bat may be stuffed anyway), like wives & girlfriends they do not take kindly to being left sitting around & ignored. If you go away again for any length of time, disconnect or remove battery & store somewhere safe, preferably off the concrete floor. Works for me. My 2c GW

Sounds like low voltage/high resistance (causing voltage drop) via central door lock circuit. I am assuming keylock cct (manual) & internal central locking cct (remote) have seperate power feeds to door lock master control relay. You could try replacing driver's door master lock switch, (if this is the one you refer to as "button & inside lock") Yahoo.jp or local wreckers could supply, maybe even Nissan Oz in support of the locally assembled Skylines..........dunno. I have had trouble with power window switch in the past, not related but same switch manufacturer, resistance checks on contacts came up fine (showed no obvious fault) but replacing switch fixed it. Wierd. If your keyless remote is also not working as it should & battery (for remote/keyring) is known to be good & the above remedy does not fix everything you are looking for a dodgy relay in the remote locking cct., I think. Get cct diagram (door locks) for your car model & go see your friendly local auto sparky unless you are confident in correctly locating & swapping out relays without causing further problems yourself. Cheers GW

Manually? Both door locks?

^^^ Having used both the above companies in the past................WA Suspension get my vote. Cheers GW For straight out customer relations, nothing to do with technical competence as for my money both companies produced the required result.

Before ya start ripping into it get yourself some "Penetrene" or similar quality penetrant in a squirty bottle & some safety goggles. Cheers GW

SWEET!

Price & delivery time to 6432 for the following items please. Cheers GW 18" 235/40R18 91W FEDERAL 595RS-R (x 2 each) 18" 245/35R18 88W FEDERAL 595RS-R (x 2 each)

Quote "what should i be expecting for a 'clean' N1 block with only 40,000 genuine kays on it?" Unquote My question would be "What do I want from an N1 motor with 40k on the block." Or any (hi-po or not) motor for that matter that I was going to buy with an expectation of useful service life. I reckon you could reasonably expect in the range 145 ~ 155psi with 2 ~ 3psi differential if the motor is sweet but I am not an expert. Do some more digging in general maintenance or speak to a trusted mechanic perhaps. I know I would be. My 2c, waiting for the chops to grill. GW PS: Happy to be corrected if my expectations are out of wack.

The first pic is on the far side, nearing Norseman. The second is at the Cliffs, round Nullabor Roadhouse somewhere, whale watching country. The distance is more like 1800kms but I wasn;t counting........probably more than that if you add it all up. Lots more for the whole journey. If that sign was bigger then you could add Wedgies, Emus, Donkeys, Brumbies, Camels & general roadkill. Don't be put off, just take your time is all. And a tyre pump of some description............forgot to mention it earlier. Don't drive at night. Cheers, GW

Cheers Daniel. Time to track down a reliable compatible substitute. Any suggestions? Thanks GW

You might get some useful input if you supplied more info & posted up a pic or two. Cheers GW

WA to the rescue haha. Try this link if you haven't already & let your fingers do the walking. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/13305-local-wreckers-and-workshops/ Cheers GW

This may be helpful for future checks? Cheers GW Hicas diagnostic procedure.docx

If you do the drive it will be a memorable experience. If you prepare properly it will be an enjoyable one as well. The idea is to be self sufficient on the road. Like Matt says. Don't drive at night or with the sun in your eyes, (late arvo). I have done this trip across "The Paddock" a few years ago, once in the Stagea east - west, a couple of times in the PC both ways, the road is all sealed & good by most country oz standards. Keep well to the left & back off a few k's when traffic/trucks coming your way to avoid/minimise windsceen damage from stray pebbles flicked out of tyre treads on seemingly stone free sections of highway. Plan to get to where you want to be at the end of each day in good time. I would be taking (& did exactly this) plenty of water for radiator plus drinking, good basic tool kit, extra spare tyre if you can &/or tyre repair kit, (the sticky plug & glue type with plug tools ~ $50 from Auto-One), power steering fluid, your preferred engine oil, a metre or so of general purpose heater hose plus cable ties spare set of belts, plugs & hoses (top/bottom radiator) or fit new ones on pre-flight service which you must do before you go (keep old belts & hoses if serviceable) , preferably service in plenty of time to get unforseen problems rectified. There are roadhouses approximately every 200km's along the way, they are not all open 24 hours a day. You can check up on this before you set off. A CB two-way on channel 40 is a very handy addition to your kit on a trip like this. You will get tired of roadhouse cuisine but do take the time to pig out in Ceduna. Long straight empty roads are tempting, don't go batsh*t. The biggest hazard is becoming complacent as the klicks unroll & shredded truck tyres which will stuff yours if you run over them. And the wildlife is to be avoided of course. Amen. Cheers GW

Dumb question perhaps but I haven't found the answer in posts so far, (no doubt it's there somewhere but read my sig., )............ With reference to the well chewed over Nissan RB indicated oil pressure dodgy numbers/incorrect reading issue, is the problem with the sender (transducer on or adjacent engine block) or the receiver, (final indicator/display in cabin) or both? The reason I ask is that I like my cabin array & am not keen on hanging other aftermarket (DEFI) displays in place which may or may not fit in the same slot as originals if I can simply upgrade my primary element. (Transducer in engine bay), out of sight. Cheers, GW

Sad news indeed John, Search "Oteku260" = no results. Is that how fast it happens? Going bush Monday else I would come. Regards, GW

^^^^Yes, this would be my choice if I was forced to treat the claim seriously, insured at the time or not. I would also be wanting to get a couple of quotes of my own just to be sure. Assuming you were insured at the time & are still with the same ins co., you could always run it past them & even if they have no interest now or you are with a different vendor, see if they are prepared to comment/advise on any possible outstanding financial liability before(if) you bother to reply to the claimant. My 2c GW

Trust FT is a "not for profit" self funded organisation.

You said "when i put the ratchet on to undo the wheel i could actually move the wheel a bit (from left to right) with a bit of force" I said "Get the wheel off & keep looking, with some leverage". What I mean is get further in, front end on axle stands, wheels chocked, car in gear, hand brake on, offending wheel off, head down, crowbar/piece of pipe/jemmy bar/tyre lever/something that you can work the wheel hub & linkages up down side to side with while you have a good clear view of what is going on or trying to come off, is loose or rooted, whatever. Could be lucky & have some nuts/bolts that just need tightening up. After you have determined that the strut is not about to colapse or some other nightmare, then arrange taking it to a mechanic if you cannot fix it yourself. My other 2c. GW

Get the wheel off & keep looking, with some leverage, something is really faarkt. But you already know that. Cheers GW

Genius I've waited 6 years for this gem, now how do I get it into my signature?