bigkevracer

Not sure. Could probably check though, I have a Dolphin one. Cost was only $200 or so through Streeter. Honestly, I'm not sure on the performance gains. It makes only a slight difference on mine, given I've got Dale's lower brace, Whiteline sway bars, BCs and full SuperPro bushes.

Ready for the cruise? Or you taking the daily?

John, there will be some M35s at the cruise meet point next weekend. There are a few M35s south of the city, but most seem to be north (including me).

I'm booked in for a retune Tuesday, so fingers crossed the car is good to go for the cruise. Looks promising.

I wouldn't be reading too much into the JPNZ guys - those are the guys that have been promising a translated manual forever and have so far failed to deliver. But they want money up front. If you go to www.xanavi.com.au, you might be able to find someone who can help you with this. there's no one listed as being in NZ but I'm sure one of the guys can help you out with something.

Funny, sounds like my fault. But mine doesnt present itself on the stock ECU...

Lol so if there were two hot girls were you the other one in the car?

For me though, I still get the same issue with the cruise disconnected. Well, the pedal harness anyway. I guess you don't have a spare sensor in one of the wrecks then? Worth trying or swapping over for diagnosis, but I can't help but think if thats all it was then it would fault on the stock ECU.

From memory Scotty the code was P0120. I've been getting it intermittently this week. Sadly there is no one specific condition that causes it. Can be foot flat, can be idling at an intersection, can be on minimal throttle driving down the road. The other night I discovered that when it goes, it still has power, and was able to drive into a carpark and up a hill. I could try a new pedal sensor, but I dismissed that as the cause because it doesn't do it without the F-con connected. I think there are 4 F-cons about, I might try and steal one and try that too. I was thinking first step should be retune using MAP sensor, which seems to be working for everyone else.

This has been covered so many times, if you search you should be able to find a part number. I think its the same as V35 and there are a few on ebay motors in the US and Yahoo Japan. Otherwise PM Scotty, he might still have one from the wreck. Is it stuck down?

Ill be there if the car is running properly.

Haha thanks Christian.

I've now got to a point where I think all these bullshit throttle issue deserve their own thread before I set fire to my M35 and watch it burn to the ground. tl;dr - seems like some kind of electronic thing is causing some kind of vacuum problem. ------------------------------------------------------------- Issues started not long after I put the F-con in. As soon as the F-con went in, throttle response wasn't as good. Had the tune adjusted and fault codes cleared, and it appeared it could have been TPS. Drove for a while, fault light went on again, left bank lean and throttle fault. Drove fine. Then it started to randomly disable the throttle. I'd be driving along, and sometimes on throttle, sometimes off, it would disable the throttle. I could coast in to find somewhere nice to park, but no more power. At the start, I could turn the car off and back on again, and the fault light would stay on but the throttle would be fine again. Then it got worse, to the point where I'd turn the car off, back on, put my foot flat on the floor, and zero throttle. I tried disconnecting the throttle harness for the cruise control. Made no difference. I tried driving with cruise connected, but off, made no difference. Then I disconnected the F-con. Instantly the fault lights cleared, throttle was back, and I could drive home. Great. So now I know the fault is in the F-con. So what is it? I thought I'd worked out it was related to the Conversion Table settings, where it was set to still use the Nissan MAP and IAT sensors. I reflashed it using the HKS MAP and IAT sensors (which are installed and connected) and the throttle worked but the car ran like crap (predictably). Then on the weekend I put the tuners map back in with their Conversion Table settings (Nissan OEM sensors), and for some reason the throttle worked again. Great. I'll go for a drive. Got 600m before the throttle gave out and lit up with a fault code. Turned the car off, back on, code cleared, drove home. The only problem was a seeming resistance from the throttle pedal. Despite how stupid this will sound in a car with an electronic throttle, it was almost as if there was some kind of air resistance in the pedal. Not only that, but when I pressed on the pedal when the resistance would clear I would hear an audible sound that was kind of like an aerosol can. Doesn't sound like the blow off valve, more like an aerosol. I'm not sure if this is some kind of weird vacuum issue, but if the issue isn't present in several hundred km of driving on stock ECU, but immediate in 500m or so of driving on F-con, my theory is something electronic, or some kind of electronic setting, causing an issue. But I have no idea what it could be. The current tune was fine on the dyno, uses the stock Nissan OEM sensors, still uses the AFM, and has the stock HKS throttle curve. It just hasn't worked since the car left the dyno. I'm stumped. Has anyone experienced anything like this, or got any idea what I or the tuners should at least be looking for before I set fire to the stupid thing?

Almost ready to do that Scotty, but it seems like once you've got the bastard setup right the tuning is easy..These idiots didn't listen or do as I asked, so it's setup to use the AFM. Once its retuned on the HKS MAP and IAT sensors, it should be right.

Pfft. My 18x8 white rims look awesome! Could do with a fraction more sidewall though...

Got the throttle working. And the car drivable on the original tune settings. NFI what's going on now.

Funny Scott, I was able to get mine working again editing the Conversion Tables. I'll keep you posted on how I go. Sounds like an ECU setup issue.

Lol doesn't mean the programming of it is easy Leon

Bingo. Syncro will lock the diffs, snow puts it into snow mode.

I've proved the issue isn't cruise control as the issue continued with the cruise control disconnected, but solved itself when I disconnected the F-con (but had cruise plugged in). The wiring for F-con install is easy Leon - it's plug and play (pretty much) intercepting the ECU plug. So I don't think it's wiring related. I've found that the throttle issue was solved by changing the Conversion Table settings, but it needs a retune now. That, and my wiring is different as I'm running the HKS MAP and IAT sensors.

Yep, completely different model, but theyre the right hook setup and the right length. I took a punt and theyre awesome.

Best way for me to lighten my car is to go on a diet... So easy to forget that. There isn't much you could do on these cars without ruining them. The Varstoen wheels might be a k or two heavier than Volks, but nothing significant. Battery wouldnt be much heavier than an Odyssey. Im sure the Akebonos aren't the lightest calipers, etc. But you'll drop 10-20kg and blow a lot of cash doing it. I don't really see the point on these.

Someone did, maybe Scotty?I think it just caused a fault.

Battery charged up, back in the car, all good. Got energetic and mucked around with the F-con. Got the throttle working although now it seems to need a retune. Now that I think I know what was causing the issue I've got back to the tuners, hopefully they're good enough blokes that they'll stand by their work and fix their mistake.

Just some teething problems we have to sort out Leon.