bigkevracer

Eyelids would match the grill... is that Dolphin? Good to see it back on the road!

BBenny's Stagea has been doing the rounds on ebay for a little while... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230831926840?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661#ht_500wt_1156

Twin Turbo VQ35 off an offroad buggy. And that sounds like a defeatist attitude!

Next step...

So happy with the end result Scotty, or still a little left in it?

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So... You're going to start by making your car look worse?

I thought Scotty had said his oil cooler makes no real difference? Oh, and to my Stagea, this weekend I finally got the wideband bung welded in, so just need to wire it up now. Also getting closer to sorting the Fcon out, looking to change some of the wiring around to run the HKS sensors instead of the stockers.

Might have made it look ugly, but probably made it match Now that Dunc has pointed it out to me, I can't get over the hideous mismatch of interior. I'd be going on Yahoo Auctions/Import Monster and seeing what you can find to replace it.

Hi Matt, I'm Ryan from the northern suburbs of Adelaide! Get onto the for sale section and have a look at the bumper Ironpaw has for sale, factory aero, much nicer. If you read this in time a few v35/m35 owners are meeting at the Bombay bicycle club. No cruise, just a catch up. Whats the thing in the passenger footwell?

Fair enough. Well sounds like it's worth moving it? Leon's probably got excess capacity, I've got excess capacity.

I've just ordered a similar one. They were ~$100 unpainted, or ~$150 painted (you just give them your paint code).

Motul told me the 8100 was ok with E85, but 300v would only work if you did frequent changes. See if you can flog it off on someone and switch to the Syn X?

Pfft! Since when? :-P Want to host my server then? Looks like a maintainence message to me, maybe its just getting some love.

If thats the case I do still have a set of factory rotors lying about.

Just the bushes, replace all the main ones with SuperPro or if you want as stiff as possible Nolathane. If you really want stiff, I think Ironpaw has a set of Silk Road Coilovers with a higher spring rate. Don't know what the rear subframe looks like on yours, but I've got adjustable toe arms with pillow ball mounts and camber correction bolts.

Fog lights don't comply? Mine weren't disconnected and it passed fine. For rotors and pads, you're after 350Z Touring (i.e. non Brembo). As per the other thread get onto GSL Rallysport/Brakes Direct. You'll need new tyres, may as well just replace all 4. Someone on here probably has a stock exhaust system you can borrow to get it over the pit. Mine is at AM Performance still (I think) but Adelaide isn't practical. I'd be following Dale's advice and putting this back on the complier. They're certified to do the job, so they should do it!

PM GSL Rallysport, or call them, and tell them you've got an NM35 Stagea. They've supplied heaps of brakes to people on here and they'll know exactly what to supply. You won't need a Stagea mechanic to do the brakes. Just find a decent/reputable mechanic and get them to do it. You may even get away with a set of pads and machined rotors.

Does it Cam? I'll just leave this here...

Bushes? Why would you want to make it as stiff as possible? Your teeth will fall out when you hit potholes.

Aren't you selling the car?

Valid point Scott. I would have thought the F-con would have some kind of detection for large variations like that? I'll bring it up with the tuner. I want it in anyway for the peace of mind and so I can get the fuel pressures right with the FPR. If the tuner thinks it'll be ok, I'll feed it into the F-con. If not, I'll still have the gauge.

I'm not running the same Innovate unit as you Scotty, i'm running the newer MTX-L, which has the electronics in the gauge, so I'll be able to view the display and correct if necessary. The funny thing is by the same token the ECU could get corrupted anyway. Any electronics can fail in a standard car, so I don't see much additional risk.

I've got an Innovate Scott, so its going 20 inches down and I'm leaving the stock O2 alone.

Funny, funny man Leon! Nothing really stopping me putting that in... Got a lot in lately actually, pretty pleased with myself! On that, I need to get this bloody wideband in... are people sleeving the wiring from the sensor to the gauge with some kind of thermal wrap? Something like this: http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving ? Or is there a clear path for the wiring that stays far enough away from the exhaust? There's no note in the instruction manual, I'm guessing I'm just over complicating things...