bigkevracer

I looked at Deatschwerks vs other options and there were too many question marks. PHR on here do ID1000s cheap. Just do it!

Which trans cooler did you go with Leon? I got my B & M today, just need to make time to fit that and the shift kit. Also got my fuel filter, Nismo thermostat, and HKS sensors. Streeter excellent as awesome. Moving this weekend, but once I've moved I should have time to get into fitting some of the thousands or parts I've built up again.

PM Ironpaw, he has one for sale. Also has a Nismo one coming in which may be for sale...

Ask Jetwreck. He cooked his power steering on the track, and warned me I'd need a cooler. He might be able to tell you what he did to fix it. Seals might make sense though? When I looked into the cooler, I found that everything else with a similar steering rack (350z, v35, pm35, etc) had a cooler, but we didn't.

Thanks Petros. Theory is great. I'll play with it some more, but it's good to have the formula. Scotty, I have thought about two pumps, but I just don't need them (yet). I'd already worked out what I was doing before I started the thread, but I was curious about the maths behind it, especially when I saw maths that didn't add up to me. Petros has cleared that up for me, so thanks!

I think Viper have a unit which is, but the higher end stuff with the paging remotes, remote start, turbo timer, etc isn't. AFAIK there's no Australian standard alarm with remote start and turbo timer.

One tyre on the same axle, or one of the four?

Viper's aren't Australian Standards as far as I know. Go Auto Watch, Mongoose or Cyclops, and get it installed by someone who knows what they're doing. You can also 'upgrade' the alarm to Australian standards if you want, might be the best option. I removed the factory alarm because it was playing up.

Scotty has found it's oil feed (or lack thereof) that kills them. If they're poorly maintained the banjo to the turbo blocks and starves the turbo of oil. Just drill it out to 2mm and you should be right. And I am a fan of the RS in white... thats what I've got!

Can someone with an Informeter tell me how high their intake temps are with a stock airbox on?

White M35 driving along King William Street this afternoon. Axis perhaps? Had colour coded flares but I missed the front end. Big Sinergy sticker on the back window. Looked nice!

I've done a lot of research recently on what I'd need to run my M35 Stagea on E85. I'm looking at upgrading my fuel system knowing it's overkill for the standard turbo, and knowing I'll be upgrading to a highflow or something down the track. The simple answer is 1000cc injectors and a 255lph+ fuel pump. Ok so that's that out of the way. I've already got a Deatschwerks 300lph pump to fit, and I'm looking at ordering some ID1000 injectors from PHR, an SAU sponsor who gave me a great price. Job sorted. But reading through the spec sheet for the ID1000s the other day, it had me thinking (bearing in mind I'm still trying to learn all of this)... Flow rate is 1015cc/min @ 3.0 Bar (43.5 psi). So lets assume it'll be around that for 100% duty. 6 injectors would therefore require 6090cc/min at 100% duty. That's near enough to 6.09L/min, which works out to 365.4L/hour. But they wouldn't be at 100% duty in theory, they'd want to be at 80-90% depending on the tuner. 90% is 328.86 lph. According to Deatschwerks, the most their pump will flow is 325lph @ 40PSI. Which isn't enough to feed the ID1000s. But heaps of people are doing just this, and it's working fine. I also found other calculators online, such as http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/jmiller/finject1.htm, which is more concerned about your horsepower and aspiration. So I guess the question is, if you really want to be a geek and calculate your fuel requirements down to the last cc, how do you do it? What formulas do you use? Or am I on the right track? Because if I'm on the right track, that'd make me think that you'd want twin pumps to properly feed 6 x ID1000s E85 at 85%+ duty cycle?

Maybe we'll see a PM35 at a cruise sometime soon then?

NEEDS MOAR LOW!! Looks nice, good luck with it! I actually saw one very similar driving through town today. Looked awesome in white, hadn't seen a white Axis before then. So future mods... - get the radio to pick up Aust channels - Guessing you have a Bose, so just get a band expander for it unless theres an issue with it. Then when it breaks down, you can replace it with a G35 fascia which will give you a standard 2 DIN hole. - reversing camera - slippylotion posted up a guide a month or so ago using an ebay special camera. I take it you've got the screen? Just do a search, you'll find it, pretty easy and the cameras are only ~$30-40 on ebay. - get the turbo built up - Why so soon? Can of worms is open!

Haha right that makes more sense Leon. I've read many a conflicting report on pod filters and their filtration, and haven't worked it out entirely myself. But I had the K&N pod kicking around, and thought I'd try it as an experiment. It's worked kind of well, except that with the ECU relearning its hammered by fuel economy. On the plus side it does give me room for a catch can and easy access to my HID ballasts That, and the Fcon should allow me to tune around any issues. If I've got the setup to make use of that extra airflow then I'm pretty keen to do so. Suction pipe will be next on the list! I think I was measuring 4.86V after I put mine on, so that would be about right I'm guessing.

Do want! Cheers Duncan. I've heard all kinds of funny stories over the years about Attessa being a bitch, had me kind of worried. I remember at one point reading that someone didn't rotate their tyres on their GT-R and that was enough to make it kick up a shit fit.

Yeah thinking about it. Planning on getting wheels soon so don't want to go crazy but it's got the original jap tyres on it still. Guess if I put four decent tyres on gives me time to work out what im going to do, and finish the current mods.

Ok a couple of things, if I've understood you properly... The Pod adaptor should be 80mm diameter, not 75mm. Dual POD? Like an RB26? But you've only got one turbo... Can you show us a pic?

You shouldn't need to if the rotors are well made. Best just to measure run out and check. If run out is excessive you'll have to send them back (which is difficult when you bought them from overseas I know).

I dunno Bob. I haven't done any oil testing but my engine has a sump full of 300v at the moment and the only difference I notice between it and the oil I had before (Valvoline "Fully synthetic") is that my wallet is lighter.

I've got a pod on mine. Required nothing to get it to work, just a filter adaptor for a 350Z. Leon, when you say an airbox and standard filter will flow more air, have you tested it? On mine I had a significant increase in AFM voltage on the informeter when I put the pod on. Somewhere around 0.5V (which I thought was a lot when it only goes up to 5V, works out to 10%). Considering I had a Blitz panel filter and the powerduct cover removed I wouldn't have thought it would have given me that big an increase. Temps seem ok too. Intake temp while moving is typically around 30 degrees. While stationary you do get some head soak depending on the ambient temp and how long you're sitting there, but when I complete the setup I'll put some head shielding up. Mine has no issue, but the injectors were maxing out before the ECU rejiggered itself. I only had the pod, no suction pipe. The only difference I can think of is the dump pipe and exhaust? I had all mine done by then. What kind of pod are you using Matthew?

Driving on Sunday, I hit one of those stupid kerb things on the left hand side as you go through a round about. Obviously just not far right enough. Pulled over, checked it, and I'd hit the front wheel hard enough to tear a flap in the sidewall, but it was holding together, still had air in it, so off I drove, and left it, but checked it a couple of times. Put about another 50k on it. Go to drive it tonight and the tyre has definately lost more air, but on closer inspection I've shaved the underside of my front bar, hit the rear wheel worse (and taken a fair chunk of metal out in a couple of spots) and damaged the back part of the side skirt. I seem to remember the ATTESSA system won't let me replace one tyre, I have to replace all. I've also got to check that the wheels are still straight, organise a wheel alignment (which I was already doing), and have to get the skirt fixed (which doesn't look like it'd be that hard a job). So what did I do to my Stagea? Hurt it. But I'll call the insurance company tomorrow and ask them what the go is.

PM35?

Sorry Dale, that was Commsman who purchased custom rate BCs... about 1-2kg softer front and rear. I'm not sure he's driven on the normal springs for comparison though? I'm with Dale, I don't know why you'd want to go softer. Very happy with mine as is.

For those looking for this information later... The V35/350Z front ball joints should be the same, and you have to get them from ebay as Josh showed above, i.e.: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-FRONT-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-Set-NISSAN-SKYLINE-V35-01-07-/190450769457?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c57c01e31#ht_2375wt_1180 Only available from Nissan complete with the spindle. I was quoted $806 per side. $1612 vs $70... I know what I'm doing!