bigkevracer

Says who? Happy with the Legs to come. Ancient POS can play with the C34s while the M35s run along ahead!

Viper is probably not Australian Standards approved, so don't bother. Insurance companies don't like them, and I've heard they're not the most reliable unit. I stuck with something that was Australian Standards, with the required immobilisation. Depending on where you are, if you join SAU you might even get a discount!

Yup, BCs. Looked at heaps of others but everyone is so happy with their BCs why bother? Seem like the most practical, and one of the cheapest, options. Looks like I'm getting a set of DBA 4000 disks too, hopefully find out tomorrow

Seems like a few tuners are against the eManage and similar addition/subtraction piggybacks. But if it works, why stuff around? The tuner I was planning on using is dead against the eManage, but says he can do it (but doesn't know how long it'll take... hmm...), but he's recommending a new Haltech product that works with a 350Z. Every time I ask for a guarantee from either him or Haltech there's nothing but silence. The only other one you can use is a HKS Fcon, but they're much more expensive and even harder to find a tuner for. Not sure if Scott's is the only proven suction pipe Aaron, Dolphin might disagree, but good luck getting one Also I wouldn't go to a normal exhaust place and get an exhaust made. I'd either go through someone who's keen on doing the development and getting it right (which if you're the guinea pig might mean a few visits, as is my case), or get a Jap cat back and local dump/front pipe. My local exhaust sounds absolutely awesome, but is way too loud and has a drone. Hopefully I'll be going in shortly to get it rectified with a larger resonator.

It looks awesome! Replaced my battery Friday night. In the dark and rain, because the other one finally gave up completely. Should be ordering shocks and disks this week, can't wait!

Charcoal will hide them better Cam's suggestion of polished lip would look ok though. Cheap way of sorting the problem until you can be bothered replacing them I guess. Otherwise there are some Hiros for sale on here.

Mine's doing the same thing, so I know where you're coming from now Just look for a replacement stock one, or there are some Nissan specific units from Greddy, Blitz and Turbosmart. I'm almost certainly going down the Turbosmart route to fix mine.

If you want the noise, why not just block it off all together? In Australia it's illegal to vent to atmosphere, so I think you'll find most people on here have theirs plumbed back.

Didn't you just get the Stoptech ones? This is the post I was looking for: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/305505-m35-rotors-brakes/page__st__80__p__5799872#entry5799872 Looks like they just fit on the fronts, and you had to cable tie them in place in one point? Would that be right? I'm led to believe now that you need to replace your brake lines after 6 years, so I'm looking at upgrading to the braided lines when I do rotors and pads. Get it all over and done with in one hit!

See what you mean about the wheels, not my thing at all But if you don't like them, and they're not a priority, why sandblast them? Why not wait and buy new ones? Have to come and show it off at the next SA cruise in September. That'll make three blue M35s! Two are going on the dyno next weekend if you're keen on having a look.

Lol all good I know. Turns in really well now with the strut brace and sway bars, hopefully the shocks fix up the ride. Looking forward to getting the toe arms in there, as it looks like it needs a bit of a camber adjustment on the rear.

Except now you've lied to everyone else. And I don't like being lied to. Especially about people lying.

I don't think so but I'll try it tomorrow with woman's iPhone and see.

Because I'm a slack bitch! Nah, I want to get them fitted right before I get a wheel alignment so they can be properly adjusted. And if I wait until I get the BCs, which looks like it will be quite soon because I'm getting really sick of it wallowing, I can get it all aligned in one hit.

I've got the ones Dale has suggested. Happy with build quality, but haven't got around to fitting them yet.

Hi all. I'm after a new set of rotors for my M35 Stagea. Already got a set of QFM HPX pads to go in, and will more than likely replace the standard lines with braided ones. I was all ready to order a set of slotted DBA 4000 rotors, however when doing a bit of research found that a lot of people on here had issues with them cracking some time ago after track days. I was looking at doing an occasional track day or hillclimb once the brakes and suspension were done, so I'd like to upgrade with this in mind. It'll be about 95% street, 5% track. Not sure if these rotors are still having cracking issues, or if being a 1.8 tonne wagon I'll just emphasize the issues. What would you recommend as a suitable upgrade? Or can I safely order the DBA 4000 series without killing them?

Sooo... You werent lied to?

Whats the difference in fitting?

Tailem Bend Motorsport Park is hosting an ANDRA 1/8 Street Sprint Practice day, Sunday 21 August, 9-4. Not sure if anyone is interested, but details are on their web site: http://tailembendmotorsport.com/

Did you guys end up getting braided lines? I thought I read something about Scotty and Ironpaw getting G35 Stoptech lines and making them fit, but a bit of searching hasn't found anything. Maybe I was imagining it? Is it even worth worrying about for a road car? I'm about to get some stuff from the states and they have reasonably cheap G35 lines, wasn't sure if I should do it when I did rotors and pads. Maltech et al seem to think the life of a rubber line is 6 years, so mine will be well and truly past that...

Just trying to fit in Cam... didn't realise how much 'man love' was a compulsory part of SAU

Awesome. Be good to outnumber the C34s for a change! BTW you can subscribe to the forum so you get email alerts, handy feature if you don't check them that often.

Did you fit that yourself Brad? I had a quote from MTQ for $1800+, depending on how far you go. I wouldn't start (and I'm not starting) with the turbo. I'm doing all the supporting bits first. Not all of them may be strictly necessary but they won't hurt. Things like intercooler, injectors, pump, ECU, exhaust, etc. But so far I've kind of been doing a mixed bag, because coming from an R31 Pintara I have enough power for now, so I've been concentrating on handling, sway bars, strut brace, brakes then coilovers. Once I've got everything in place I'll do the exhaust then... assuming it doesn't blow up in the mean time... fingers crossed! Going to try and drill out that banjo at the next service. Billy wants to come round and drill out our holes together Will be dumping and replacing the oil with another tank of the Valvoline fully synth, think I've got one fill left. Is it worth a flush while I'm at it? Ah huh... sure... I think you forgot the unrequited love between you and Aaron

I'll be keen, let me know how you go. What's the difference between this and the one Aaron has?

If you've got the Nismo exhaust, dump and front pipe for sure. Get rid of the cat in the dump as a priority! There are a few options at the moment, I've got the AM Performance pipes on mine and I'm local to you if you want to have a look? What needs doing on the car? Mine needs brake pads and rotors, suspension, etc. You can easily spend $2k+ doing just this. Sway bars are a must, mine are brilliant. I've done strut brace instead of plenum spacer, but they're pretty highly regarded.