psi

Shall we now just dedicate this thread to Chris and his awesome work?? Hey Chris, the cruise you put in Warrens (3intheback) V35 is by far the best on: A: install (it looks factory) B: useage (its far better than most hi-end factories can do). The car actually cruises at the set speed.. up and down hills! C: user freindly. I taught an old fart (60 something) guy how to use it.. and he had NEVER used any cruise before in his life! Love your work mate!

see Chris.. His work ROCKS. His products rock.

I run skid pan days on a wet concrete 'track' in Gympie. In the afternoon, we have a time trail against the stop watch.. The track starts on the wet concrete then migrates onto dry black stuff which has a slalm built in. 3 of the top 5 cars are on them. We ask a lot of the tyres, and the KU36's perform stinking well. My car runs them (235/45/17) all round, and power sliding them has become a whole lot more harder, even on wet concrete. Sure, they are not a dedicated slick, but bang for buck, they are stinking hard to beat! I got mine from option1. My skid guys (me included) run 38~40ish psi in the fronts and 42~46 in the back (for powersliding). Great grip and reasonable tyre life. Does that help??

I now work at the autobarn in gympie. The boss is a car nutter, and thats the only reason I joined his team. I know that he tries very very hard to uphold a good name and top rate service. That said, I have freinds that drive past 3 OTHER autobarn stores to shop with us, same stuff as all the above statements. Bottom line. Every store is owned individually, You cant tarr all of the brand with the same brush. It doesn't matter what type of shop you look at, there will always be people who dont like something. Prices, service or attitude. Just find a shop you like and get over it!

a BOV or screamer pipe wont make your car go any faster.. Lots of people mistake noise with horsepower, and frankly, they are way off. Like said above, 10 psi on a kkr should be a very useable device as far as traction goes. if your unloading in 3rd gear then you have traction issues. get your wheel alignment checked, your probably running 3~5 neg camber. then check out some real tyres. with good tyres and suspension set up, your car wont 'feel' fast, but it will be.. and safer!

just make sure its not a chinese junker.. or, all you'll be buying is a time bomb!

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroi...sity/index.html Thats a good read, That covers most of my questions.. so, what are all the lettters??

I have seen this turbo in person, it is brand new as he says! good luck with the sale mate..

I'm interested in seeing pics of hooks fitted, and how they are attached. cheers

I bought a whole wrecked VL (T-bone) for $75. Sold the gear box and suspension for $75.. Free RB30 for me! Tahts the best way i thinks!

Like the title says.. We had a very in depth chat at work about oil viscosity and the SAE numbers on enigne oil; eg: 15W 40 verses a 0w 40. It started with a rep who said that the first number is the cold weight of the oil, and the 2nd is the hot (running operation temp) weight of the oil.. So how can an oil be heated up and gain viscosity weight?? Then someone said that the second number is a 'code' for the SAE test prodcedure to classify the oil.. somebody else thought is was the molecule size of the oil.. someone else thought it was a pressure ratio index.. So, whats what? any help would be great.

Like I said, it is there for a reason.. ..and, like I also said, IF you dont like it, change it back. No harm done. After all, your not welding anything in place! You have to keep in mind that the engineer who did this, did this to cope with ALL kinds weather conditions in mind, for all kinds of drivers, at all sorts of altitudes. Now, where I live, that doesn't bother me. I want the horsepower, with a smooth crisp responce. That said, I did this as my very first engine mod, with stock ecu, fmic and cat back exhaust. couldn't feel a peak horsepower difference, but I DID feel a difference going from cruise onto boost (like I stated). I have owned my car for a bit over 7 years. No drama's, cold, hot, skid pan. makes no difference to anything else that I have noticed. Thats why I posted it up! What is the point of running a front mount intercooler for reducing air temps, when you let the air temp jump back up to 77 odd degrees inside the intake manifold?? That is just silly! This is where this mod comes into its own. It is not a big noticealbe difference like a lifting boost 3psi, but lots of tricky little things like this add up to a very nice package. does that help you get your head around it??

If I cant sell it.. I dont know what i'm gonna do with it..!

removing intake manifold heat well help develop power, cooler air is always denser & better for making power.. hence adding the humble intercooler. However, in the RB25 manifold, water flows into and out of the manifold in a few spots, plus the water outlet for the radiator. to make this work, you would either have to delete these (I cant see that being good!) or, somehow coat these water jackets to prevent the heat soak.. I did a thread some time back it the tutorial section for the throttle body coolant deletion, but removing the restof the water from the manifold could be both painful and silly. The nissan factory went to a lot of trouble to put these water ports into the manifold, I would guess that they are there to help coolant flow and carry bubbles to a common high point (for system bleeding). Without this function.. probable cooked engine! If you can coat the water ports with something that reduces the heat transfer, then you will gain something with this product, other than that, I cant see it doing much for you. But i could be wrong.

I know the owner, and the car. The pics dont quite do it justice. This is a very clean car, I will vouch for that. Good luck with the sale mate. What are you gonna buy next?? a chev truck, cos your roads are worse than mine! haha

ohh, and that is 304 stainless bars on the front! Just in case you were wondering..

I bought this 'toy' as a registered car with something in mind.. due to me moving, it needs a new home! 202, auto, extractors & a serious nudge bar.. fat exhaust! check out the pipe! all wires are gone, all glass (bar windscreen) gone, doors and boot are gone.. lights are gone.. air con gone.. car runs well, needs battery and diff welded up to finish it off. note the water temp guage! Apart from that, its good to go. $500? make an offer i cant say no to! Car is in Gympie. 4570

c'mon guys.. make an offer.. I do actually need it gone. My new shed is 1/3 the size of my current shed.

opps spotted a typo.. 2 x buggy tyres.. $50.

$70 60mm alloy pipes (same size as stock R33 GTST pipes). Long radius bend and straight of 1350mm long, still wrapped! $70 75mm Stainless pipes. 304 grade x 1.6mm wall thickness. both bits have about 650mm of straight + a 90 degree bend and the other has 2 x 45 bends. $30 100mm x 500mm long. air duct. $15 Finer filter oil. brand new, never opened. $20 2 x motorbike discs for buggy. CBR400? XR400 or something like that.. cant remember! $25 2 x fluid coolers. Oil, fuel or water.. take the pair! $100 2 x Alloy motorbike mufflers 35mm in, 25mm gas out. Good cond. will fit 200~350cc 2 stroke bike motor or small car! hahaha $650 1 x Sidewinder off-road buggy. Unfinished project, now i'm moving, nowhere to keep it. Comes with bilstein rear shocks from a commodore. $50 1 x VL mini spool. $50 1 x 2nd hand, but good buggy tyres. 18x9.5x8 $140 1 x 2JZ-GTE turbo. I broke the other one removing it! Good condition.. $140 1 x 3L patrol / Navara turbo. Low Km's. Good condition make an offer if you wish.. Need it gone, Moving soon. Cheers Aaron

So... What was the problem exactly??

GTR Turbo's SOLD

The dark window tint $50.

VL cross over pipe, $10

Bike sold pending payment