psi

Price drop.. 3L diesel turbo.. $150 2J turbo's $150 TZR.. $250 Take it! GTR turbo's $$550.. C'mon, i cant take this stuff with me..

Block sold

More stuff in the shed! Supra 2JZ-GTE turbo's. $200 for both & all the bits in the photo's. Yes, the broken turbine wheel was me Take one or both.. best offer.

Fan shroud sold..

The Patrol turbo has a coloured past.. A guy owed me some money, I ended up with the turbo! It was the only thing that lived through his engine blow up at (apparently) 15 000km. Yep, spanking new engine off the shelf broke a piston in 3 bits (so the story goes). So, as you can see, its VERY clean, shaft play is good, and it is a complete stock (unmodded) 3L diesel turbo as fitted to the 3L patrol. It has a variable Vane turbine housing. I removed to the housing to check it out, and it was also very clean and nothing broken or bent. I am only trying to recover some of the money I lost .. it has a compressor cover A/R 0.53 and the rear A/R 0.64. The turbo has no oil or water fittings attached. Only the actuator for the Variabale vane. If you wish to look it up, it numbers on the ID tag are: FD 0402J 14411 - VC100 705954-15. does that help?

More pics of the GTR turbo's. Last pic is for those who wish to check the numbers.

Sony head unit, stacker and parts are SOLD.

PM sent.

Ohh, I'm located in Gympie 4570.

RB25Det block $50. busted pistons. No sump or oil pump. VERY short motor. RB25 R33 fan shroud $50 RB25 turbo exhaust housing $50. Modified for use with screamer pipe! RB25 compressor elbow. $20 RB25 Det exhaust valves x 2. Brand new. $100?? 3 x actuators. 14 psi. $50 each. 2 x bilstein rear shocks for VB-VL commodore. $50 1 x roll of 15% Professional window tint. Had this for years.. need it gone. Heaps on there. $80 GTR R34 stock turbo's. $650 pair. Great condition. 3L nissan Patrol / navara turbo. VERY low Km's. $200 TZR 250 (89) 2 stroke bike. $400 Bough for go-cart, never got there! 6 spd box.. CA 18 T25 turbine housing.. $10 Holset compressor wheel. Its BIGGER than my GT3040 wheel! $50 Turbo explanation toy! Teach your mates how these things work $10! VL turbo cross over pipe $50 Sony head unit and 10 stacker.. hardly used (no idea even if it still works) brain cable and remote.. $10 Will happily freight to anywhere. If you would like more info or photo's, pleaes ask. open to offers on all things..

DO it.. you wont look back!

rebuilt tubo bottom end..? did you use the 7.8:1 comp pistons too? what sort of $$ are you looking for?? throw a ball park figure out there so people know what you are thinking.

...OR, be a little out there and weld a large bung fitting into the bottom of the sump (where the oil pump releif vavle is). Just unscrew the bung and you can get at the vavle! we did this on an old (R31) Race engine that gave us oiling hell... I will be doing it to my 25/30 as well (bit over the top, but i HATE taking the sump off!) does that help ya?

every known mechanical device has a breaking point. Some engines are just freaks (either way) and live forever or break with no known (or understood) reason. So, I go straight back to my last statement! Sure, you can spend large lumps of $$ on an engine that only makes 300kw, and yes it will keep doing that until it is worn out. or, you can just say 'bugger it' its gonna break sooner or later and save the extra $$ and do it again in 6 months or 6 years time if or when the things goes bang. So, to answer the question, yes, it is possable. May not be the way I would do it.. or you.. or half the guys on here. But do-able none the less...

I strongly reccomend you read the WHOLE thread about the mod I posted.. Stop re-inventing the wheel.

If your slap happy.. RB30 bottem end $100 (or less) Not rebuilt Holset turbo 2nd hand $500 (HX35 or HX40) use standard manifold ECU and tuning $2500~3500ish?? Do you see where i'm going with this?? Sure, it wont be pritty, it will take a reasonable amount of abuse and costs will be very low. ..and the best bit, everybodies jaw will hit the floor when you tell them how much it DIDN'T cost! That will always be priceless! Be no means the best way of building good power.. but, with some 'out side the box' thinking, do-able.

I han't done a Neo head.. but I'm guessing that Nissan didn't stray too far from what they already know works. Please take another pic, up close and front on, just like mine so everybody can see what your looking at.

WRX, EVO, SR20.. doen't change the basic laws that govern making horsepower. It's a 2L, 4 cyl. Cheap turbo's are cheap for a reason. They dont have the hours of testing behind them to prove how good their product is.. They dont test the turbo to see how or when it will fail and make the unit bullet proof. Take Garrett, they stand by their product, openly state how many hours they have tested it for, and show some of the tests! This goes for all other top brands (all the dear ones!). Cutting corners on a turbo is just plain STUPID! Plain and simple. After he blows that junker up (and it WILL blow up!), He needs a tow home, he has to buy yet another turbo, (and maybe another engine), clean the intercooler and pipes out, waste time doing all said work... Add all that up! Thats a VERY expensive turbo by the time the car is going again. Now about the actual power your wanting to make...? Do we need to go any further???

I have a pressure releif valve set at 11 psi, then the air goes from there too my good old turbosmart boost controller(single stage!). I have a 9psi spring and I can (within reason) change the way the boost comes on. Currently the setup is easily holding 16psi on a 45mm external gate. I can have the valve shut until any preset value I dial in, I can even make a boost spike if wanted.. and the whole system cost less than $100 fitted! Never had a single issue with it.. and its been like that on 3 different cars and hasn't stopped in the last 9 years! its so basic to look at, but it does an awesome job and I dont think that I'm ever going to change it!

A mate of mine has an electronic boost controller.. i didn't pay any attention to brand.. AVCR maybe? he was having some similar issues to you guys. He was also looking for bigger boost and the controller couldn't do it. I told him to put a restrictor in the line BEFRORE the solinoid. I said to add something like a carby jet or welding tip. He added a CIG welding tip (1mm i think) and remapped his program. The car has a lot stronger mid range, even with no boost increase and the solinoid isn't working so hard when he is pumping out hi boost. The restrictor limits the volume of air that the controller gets to see, it wont change to pressure. But, because the small restrictor is in place, it takes time for the line to 'fill' up with boost pressure and the engine ramps onto boost quicker. Some times the solinoids being used just cant dump enough air to hold the required levels. In your programming, you want to be able to tell the solinoid to stay shut for as long as possible to increase the mid range. Depending how it is set up, in my freinds set up, the solinoid is inline so when the solinoid is shut, no air gets to the actuator. does that help? or is that completly not what your saying?

If you talk sweetly to some of the big hitters on here, I'm sure they could help you get a 'parts list' going. Not a wish list, but bits that you NEED to use to make power. A PM to somebody like RIPS would not go astray either! What doesn't he know...? Dont take one persons idea's as gold, there are many guys on here who have spent big $$ to gain big HP. I'm sure some would happily tell you of the pitfalls!

Read the WHOLE thread again! check out post #4. I put some colour on the bit that you need to look at!

If i was going to sink heavy lumps of money into an engine, I would be using the RB26 head. There is plenty of parts for larger HP figures, such as cams, valve springs, manifolds. etc. Sure, there are plenty of people that will say that there is ample amount of RB25 gear.. but really start looking for the hard core parts for making bulk horsepower and the amount of RB25 stuff starts to get thin.. In my opinion anyway! I'm sure somebody will prove me wrong.. but either way.. ur up for some fun and hours of head scratching! Welcome to the land of RB maddness....

Feel free to take more pics and post them up.. I tried to give as much info as I could, so, you should be able to do the job without too much bother. be kind to the plug when removing it.. you dont want to break it in half! or drill too deep! happy modding mate!

If you click on my pics of the plugs, its easy to see where I drilled the holes. Now with the new pics above ^^, that should remove all guess work of how it works. cheers